Flow in drop-off reef tanks

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Hi all, just after people's opinions and experiences of flow in drop-off reefs?

I am looking at getting a 60gallon drop-off aquarium next year in a penninsula orientation and was wondering how you get around any dead spots in flow caused by the step?

Thanks in advance.
 
If it helps this is the aquarium I'm looking at getting

clearseal.PNG
 
hi, looks like only 6-8" drop ,should not really have a problem with enough flow :)
 
Just guessing here, but if I were attempting this, I'd do a pair of Vortech Mp10s - 1 high on backside and 1 low on opposite backside using reefcrest and anti-sync combinations.
 
I have an MP10 at the moment and it was my originalthought, but was looking at the Maxspect Gyre's. I particularly liked the way they draw the water in from one side and out of the other and also being able to easily rotate these to direct the flow more accurately.
Then thinking if I had one of those in a horizontal plane, would it cause flow/dead spot issues, which the led me to start this thread.
Maybe a 2nd unit, just running 1 impeller mounted vertically would work well.
What do people think of the Maxspect Gyre's in general?
 
I have an MP10 at the moment and it was my originalthought, but was looking at the Maxspect Gyre's. I particularly liked the way they draw the water in from one side and out of the other and also being able to easily rotate these to direct the flow more accurately.
Then thinking if I had one of those in a horizontal plane, would it cause flow/dead spot issues, which the led me to start this thread.
Maybe a 2nd unit, just running 1 impeller mounted vertically would work well.
What do people think of the Maxspect Gyre's in general?

I have a XF280. I like it and was thinking of upgrading. I see that the new 300 series have had controller issues, so that make me a little nervous. My only complaint is that they absolutely need to be cleaned on a regular basis, and it's kind of a pain. Honestly, in this application I think MP10's would be more suitable. I feel the gyre's are more appropriate if you're looking to move large volumes of water over a long tank. My tank is 7' long. A bit overkill in this tank.
 
I have an MP10 at the moment and it was my originalthought, but was looking at the Maxspect Gyre's. I particularly liked the way they draw the water in from one side and out of the other and also being able to easily rotate these to direct the flow more accurately.
Then thinking if I had one of those in a horizontal plane, would it cause flow/dead spot issues, which the led me to start this thread.
Maybe a 2nd unit, just running 1 impeller mounted vertically would work well.
What do people think of the Maxspect Gyre's in general?

Check out Ryan @BRS 360 build they just did video last week on flow, might give you some ideas ->
 
You will have some options for sure to include closed loop, gyres, MP's and even sea swirls.

You could use a gyre and if sized properly will reach the other side of the tank and then tumble down. A lot of it will depend on the aquascape and in time coral type and growth. They do impact flow by breaking it (blocking). I've seen a few drop off tanks with a small MP10 on the drop off side - I think someone already noted that. You could also add a sea swirl with a 45' elbow instead of the 90 with a random flow nozzle.

Only thing I can really suggest is try to envision the end tank. Rock, aquascape, corals, and what it may look like a year or two from now. Then look at the flow options you are deploying. It may help.
 
Guys, many thanks for all your replies here.
Love the idea of filming the bubbles, but will need to commit to buying the hardware first, so I definitely want to see Ryan's experiment with the dye in the water on varied range of powerheads.
Really given me some things to think about.
 
Been thinking a bit more and I wouldn't mind a custom version of this just slightly larger, probably 80 gallon I estimate discounting the sump.
First company I heard back from were very wary of there being a weak spot, but the Clearseal version is 3/8" thick so surely 5/8" thick glass with bracing should be fine?

I've no experience of custom builds or how to calculate the stresses involved in something like this, so wouldn't mind people's thoughts and feedback on this sketch.
aquarium.jpg
 
love the new size ,works into 24/48" cuts on glass means not much waste involved :cool:
 
Got a response now on the custom build and it's going ahead. I just need to work out the cabinet material and also how the sump will be laid out and size etc. Lead time is about twelve weeks, which suits me because I need somewhere to put the Christmas tree and 2 reef tanks take up too much space.
I will have them both up and running simultaneously over a period of about 6 months I guess whilst I transition the stock over to the new setup.
So will be saying goodbye to this next summer...
20200925_171715.jpg
 
Back on topic, I was sold on the idea of running two MP10's either side of the weir, but... now I am going for a 90 gallon custom build, the glass thickness will be around 5/8" thick to cope with the increase of size and the odd structural shape, so I'm back to square 1 and need advice.
Tank length will be 48" now, so what are people's thoughts on recommenced powerhead solutions?
 
Hi Seth,

I decided it wasn't quite what I wanted size wise, so I have gone for a custom build. The custom build however is over twice as expensive as this clearseal.

I am still waiting on the design off the manufacturer, which will hopefully be next week.

When are you moving?
 

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