Fluconazole treatment 20gal lagoon

climbingjimk

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Interested to know if it matter using Reef Flux or Flux RX, I just used Reef Flux on my 70g and used x7 pills since its 1/per did I underdose as it is back about 1 month later without anything new being added.

So next was looking at using Flux RX
 
This is my first thread bear with me. i have done 3 5 gallon water changes roughly 6 days apart. After the 3rd water change today i added 3 Reef Flux Fluconazole capsules. The plan is to put photos up every day or so and document the journey
 
Interested to know if it matter using Reef Flux or Flux RX, I just used Reef Flux on my 70g and used x7 pills since its 1/per did I underdose as it is back about 1 month later without anything new being added.

So next was looking at using Flux RX
on the Reef Flux bottle it says 1 tablet per 10 gallons. the dosage can be doubled for faster results. so i split the difference and went 3 for 20 gallons
 
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on the Reef Flux bottle it says 1 tablet per 10 gallons. the dosage can be doubled for faster results. so i split the difference and went 3 for 20 gallons
Ah gotcha, ever have any issues with acros when dubbling (your case 1.5) the dosage?
 
Ah gotcha, ever have any issues with acros when dubbling (your case 1.5) the dosage?
I don't have any acros in this tank. This is my first time with Fluconazole. The monti frags have all their polyps out. So far the only thing that looked stressed is one of the mushrooms
 
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One day in. No Noticeable change in algae. Last night one clump of mushrooms looked grumpy. Today the euphilia front right about 1/3 size.
 
IMO, best to do manual removal while the Reef Flux does it a job. Otherwise could end up with a nutrient spike.
 
IMO, best to do manual removal while the Reef Flux does it a job. Otherwise could end up with a nutrient spike.
That's what i keep hearing. I have been sucking it up with a turkey baster, passing the contents thru some filter floss which then drains into the filter floss in the sump
 
That's what i keep hearing. I have been sucking it up with a turkey baster, passing the contents thru some filter floss which then drains into the filter floss in the sump

adding the byprosis to your filter floss isn’t removing it - it’s just relocating it...
I was suggesting to actually manually remove some of it from time to time. Because whatever breaks up will just be added to the water column.
 
I want to recommend cease dosing the item, and fix the tank without any form of wait as a total skip cycle cleaning.

there are ten reasons not to use reef flux in a nano reef, ever. you should simply maintain the tank by removing the cloudy waste packed in, thats feed for the algae, and we kill the algae then remove it while taken apart

reassemble the reef you want, by dinner time. no reef flux for nanos if you want them to live decades

for the amount of surface area in the tank, less than normal, its all very aged and compacted by waste per pics. we would reverse that.

doing reef flux is going to up your detritus loading threefold and pack it in, deeper, lessening surface area.
 
I want to recommend cease dosing the item, and fix the tank without any form of wait as a total skip cycle cleaning.

there are ten reasons not to use reef flux in a nano reef, ever. you should simply maintain the tank by removing the cloudy waste packed in, thats feed for the algae, and we kill the algae then remove it while taken apart

reassemble the reef you want, by dinner time. no reef flux for nanos if you want them to live decades

for the amount of surface area in the tank, less than normal, its all very aged and compacted by waste per pics. we would reverse that.

doing reef flux is going to up your detritus loading threefold and pack it in, deeper, lessening surface area.

Care to elaborate on the ten reasons not to use reef flux to rid byprosis? What is the difference between using it in a large tank and a small tank? As long as you’re using the correct amount, I can’t see a reason why it should be excluded in a nano.
 
Care to elaborate on the ten reasons not to use reef flux to rid byprosis? What is the difference between using it in a large tank and a small tank? As long as you’re using the correct amount, I can’t see a reason why it should be excluded in a nano.
Not only that I was under impression Bryopsis is one of those things that you just cant make it go away and spreads like wildfire, I had it bad once before and didnt have any other issues unfortunately it came in with a frag that I missed. Unfortunately even with reef flux its come back now
 
legit question.

that recommend comes from patterning I see in the nuisance algae forum and from other forums online, its a marked warning not to get started on indirect controls and medications in nano-reefing because in the end, we are going to have to export. there's no way around it, its why we can't look up very many 10-15 year old nano reefs on the internet (maybe 5 total or less?) as most nanos are attempted as low export and they're simply taken down due to invasion vs kept to old age. reef flux only works on a few select strains, and the compounding waste from dieoff above will put the tank into hyper aging mode

cyano comes next and then a purchase of chemi clean, which also doesnt work well in nanos compared to actual gardening
to dose reef flux is to get on the retail wheel, and in large tanks with not as easy access that may be required


but not in a nano

all the pores in the system above are clogged, his nitrification ability is reduced massively compared to the exported system/manually cleaned with surface area in direct contact with wastewater. reef flux cannot open pores, it will clog them by reducing fragment size in decay.

I have numerous work threads showing actual coral loss in some nanos where reef flux/fluc killed off algae and made a metabolite stew, all avoidable with the hands-on mode.


he'd lose viable practice in controlling the reef to do this, without using flux (Seabass on nano-reef.com did manual run here, unclogged vs wait, de aged the tank, took two hours)

pic coming up Im at work having to time the edits lol
sb1.png


sb2.png


sb3.png
 
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Works great for me with bryopsis. I only do 1 tab per 20 gal. Just do the water changes like the instructions say. Never lost anything with it.
 
legit question.

that recommend comes from patterning I see in the nuisance algae forum and from other forums online, its a marked warning not to get started on indirect controls and medications in nano-reefing because in the end, we are going to have to export. there's no way around it, its why we can't look up very many 10-15 year old nano reefs on the internet (maybe 5 total or less?) as most nanos are attempted as low export and they're simply taken down due to invasion vs kept to old age. reef flux only works on a few select strains, and the compounding waste from dieoff above will put the tank into hyper aging mode

cyano comes next and then a purchase of chemi clean, which also doesnt work well in nanos compared to actual gardening
to dose reef flux is to get on the retail wheel, and in large tanks with not as easy access that may be required


but not in a nano

all the pores in the system above are clogged, his nitrification ability is reduced massively compared to the exported system/manually cleaned with surface area in direct contact with wastewater. reef flux cannot open pores, it will clog them by reducing fragment size in decay.

I have numerous work threads showing actual coral loss in some nanos where reef flux/fluc killed off algae and made a metabolite stew, all avoidable with the hands-on mode.


he'd lose viable practice in controlling the reef to do this, without using flux (Seabass on nano-reef.com did manual run here, unclogged vs wait, de aged the tank, took two hours)

pic coming up Im at work having to time the edits lol

Could this not be avoided by doing a large export post reef Flux? Since the instructions even mention doing a 30% change post medication? To help reduce any of the elevated nutrients?

I think this is more of a case of; “if you use it, make sure you can export enough” not a case of “nano = no go”


Also, idk if not being able to find ages nano-tanks is a legit reason. Since I think it’s safe to assume many people outgrow their nano tank.
 
Works great for me with bryopsis. I only do 1 tab per 20 gal. Just do the water changes like the instructions say. Never lost anything with it.

same here, followed instructions and no I’ll effects. Months have passed since I used it, tank looks great.
 
for sure there are hundreds of good outcomes no denial, the fluconazole thread is 200 pages of good patterns to extract, we can find the cyano and the regrowth issues there as well.

a newer tank, less pre-invaded like the OP's isn't as likely to have initial problems with compounding.


my way of disassembly cleaning is simply the most work-laden option with the tightest outcome on controls. the least growback, the least clouding left in place to fuel the next succession of invasions.

for sure pre removal is best like you mentioned Kev if possible/





clean this first one manually for practice, its best for sure. wait to use fluc until you have no option, strong recommend or addiction to retail $ is going to catch us one day not able to beat an invader, and with no practice doing skip-cycle deep cleans.

Seabass applied peroxide to the cleaned rocks, after removal, before reinstallation and that burns out remaining holdfasts quite nicely.


peroxide is just as much of a cheat as fluc :) agreed, but we don't cause compounding we reverse it using the rules of cleaning we also apply. no cloudy sandbed is left, its cleaned, and all rocks were swished in saltwater after scoring so they don't input back cloudy waste.


use of fluc is building up compounding slowly, methodically, in any system its used in because its killing off tiny pre growth green plants as well on a constant basis.

Fluc is the single best bryopsis killer Ive ever seen, its a viable tool in the hobby.

peroxide is weak against bryopsis.
 
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