FLUKES NOT GOING AWAY

[sal16cal1]

I’m throwing some dead mollies in water and gonna do an ammonia test. Then put Amquel, stability, prime and microblift in separate buckets then test. I’ll let you guys know how it turns out.

Ammonia started at .37

Both Prime and Amquel reduced ammonia to 0.00 in a hour I’ll check tomorrow morning again.

 

[sal16cal1]

out of curiosity I mean your the experts. How often do your fish get sick on average?

 

[Weeb]

I do Chemoprophylaxis treatments now. Didn't do this in the 60's thru 90's. So when I was doing Observational Quarantine, a problem would arise about 30% of the time. Currently, I do a FW dip (in Methylene Blue), get the fish eating 2-3 days, then copper treat, and Praziquantel treat. After final treatment, I observe for 3 more weeks.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Ammonia started at .37

Both Prime and Amquel reduced ammonia to 0.00 in a hour I’ll check tomorrow morning again.

Prime is an alternative and not a solution and locks it up but does NOT remove it as label suggests. If you check again 8 hours later, you will see those numbers have returned
Water changes, filtration and denititrification are ways to get these levels down. Over feeding, high water temp, lack of maintenance and overcrowding as well as immature tanks are reasons you will see higher levels

 

[vetteguy53081]

out of curiosity I mean your the experts. How often do your fish get sick on average?

When provided good water quality, diet, oxygen and buying healthy livestock, it will be rare that fish get sick. I have not had illness in several years and have 43 fish- Its all in water management and buying healthy livestock.
When selecting fish, Observe feeding, normal breathing, no skin blemishes, how they interact with other fish in display tank and no other imperfections

 

[Weeb]

I’m throwing some dead mollies in water and gonna do an ammonia test. Then put Amquel, stability, prime and microblift in separate buckets then test. I’ll let you guys know how it turns out.

Have you ammonia tested prepared salt water, before using it for a water exchange? What were the results?

 

[sal16cal1]

Prime is an alternative and not a solution and locks it up but does NOT remove it as label suggests. If you check again 8 hours later, you will see those numbers have returned
Water changes, filtration and denititrification are ways to get these levels down. Over feeding, high water temp, lack of maintenance and overcrowding as well as immature tanks are reasons you will see higher levels

Well ya my tank was mature until this hypo. This “mini” cycle isn’t so small. I’ve had to do 3 water changes over 7-8 days because my ammonia was .35. Hoping it ends soon.

 

[sal16cal1]

When provided good water quality, diet, oxygen and buying healthy livestock, it will be rare that fish get sick. I have not had illness in several years and have 43 fish- Its all in water management and buying healthy livestock.
When selecting fish, Observe feeding, normal breathing, no skin blemishes, how they interact with other fish in display tank and no other imperfections

That’s great to hear I was starting to worry myself that this would happen every 3 months. I’ll get it down. I’ve only studied this hobby for 6 months.

 

[sal16cal1]

I do Chemoprophylaxis treatments now. Didn't do this in the 60's thru 90's. So when I was doing Observational Quarantine, a problem would arise about 30% of the time. Currently, I do a FW dip (in Methylene Blue), get the fish eating 2-3 days, then copper treat, and Praziquantel treat. After final treatment, I observe for 3 more weeks.

I just did a copper treatment and observation last time I qt I’ll add prazi in the future. After 7 months I officially understand the importance of QT.

 

[sal16cal1]

Have you ammonia tested prepared salt water, before using it for a water exchange? What were the results?

.12

 

[vetteguy53081]

.12

If true is elevated as you want .025 or below. Did you man .012?

 

[sal16cal1]

That’s great to hear I was starting to worry myself that this would happen every 3 months. I’ll get it down. I’ve only studied this hobby for 6 months.

I have a 75 gallon tank
One Niger trigger 4 inches
One fox 5 inches
One bristle 4 inch
One dogface 6 inch

Should I get rid of the puffer I’m over stocked right?

 

[sal16cal1]

When provided good water quality, diet, oxygen and buying healthy livestock, it will be rare that fish get sick. I have not had illness in several years and have 43 fish- Its all in water management and buying healthy livestock.
When selecting fish, Observe feeding, normal breathing, no skin blemishes, how they interact with other fish in display tank and no other imperfections

I meant to reply to you. See my previous post do you think I’m overstocked?

 

[sal16cal1]

Ok, great! Then I'd say that's about all you can be doing at this point. Just keep us updated .

Unbelievable after a week the puffer started flashing again. what the heck is going on. Some days he has energy and swims all day some he lays down.

 

[Jay Hemdal Verified Community Expert]

Unbelievable after a week the puffer started flashing again. what the heck is going on. Some days he has energy and swims all day some he lays down.

Ugh - with 7 pages of messages and so many people weighing in, I don't know where to start back up on this.....

Did you try hyposalinity?

Jay

 

[sal16cal1]

Ugh - with 7 pages of messages and so many people weighing in, I don't know where to start back up on this.....

Did you try hyposalinity?

Jay

I’ve been at 13 ppt for 2 weeks and used general cure and prazi before that. I’ll have to go down to 12z

I guess I have accept the fact it might be ich except that the fish have no spots.

 

[Jay Hemdal Verified Community Expert]

I’ve been at 13 ppt for 2 weeks and used general cure and prazi before that. I’ll have to go down to 12z

I guess I have accept the fact it might be ich except that the fish have no spots.

13 ppt should be fine to control flukes (except the rare brackish water ones). Just checking here, not to insult you, but there are a LOT of people here who mess up with salinity versus specific gravity. I've had people tell me that they were at 13 ppt, but what they really meant was a specific gravity of 1.013, and that is not the same.

What is your salinity measuring device?

Jay

 

[sal16cal1]

13 ppt should be fine to control flukes (except the rare brackish water ones). Just checking here, not to insult you, but there are a LOT of people here who mess up with salinity versus specific gravity. I've had people tell me that they were at 13 ppt, but what they really meant was a specific gravity of 1.013, and that is not the same.

What is your salinity measuring device?

Jay

Hanna salinity tester and to be sure I brought a sample to a lfs and they confirmed my salinity is 13 ppt 1.010 SG. I plan on lowering to 12 ppt just in case somehow it’s ich.

I mean is weeks normal to cure flukes?
To be clear like 14+ days of prazipro and 2 weeks of hypo so far.

I almost made an impulsive decision and dosed copper power but I stopped myself. It’s getting frustrating.

 

[Weeb]

.12

Thanks. So the fresh saltwater used in water exchanges starts at 0.12ppm ammonia.

 

[Weeb]

Assuming tank temperatures remain at or above 78F:
Hyposalinity (in specific gravity terms) for worms is 1.009 for 35 days (to catch the outlier worm species).

Hyposalinity for Cryptocaryon irritans (Marine Ich) is 1.009 (12 ppt) for 30 consecutive days. Inverts have to be removed as well as any corals, but in the case of @sal16cal1 you have a fish only aquarium. Some fail doing this.

If you don't lower the salinity all the way to where it belongs (i.e. slowly lowering the salinity over days), you may invite hyposalinity resistant Marine Ich.

[Let's try for 10 pages!]