FMK with manifold HELP!!!

Dj City · Mar 5, 2019

I am building a new 180 gal reef. I will be using a Jeabo 15000 for the return and a Jeabo DCP 10000 for my manifold.
The issue I'm having is with plumbing. I have a 3/4 inch fitting from the output of the 10000. I'm not sure how to proceed from here because I "think" I want 1 inch piping. I have the Apex FMK that comes with one 1 inch sensor. That will be on the return line. It also comes with two 1/2 inch sensors. I'm not sure where I need to place them.

I'm not sure how to go about the manifold. I have never built one before.
The pump for the manifold has a 3/4" outlet. The FMK has two 1/2" sensors and I think my reactor and UV have 1/2" tubing.
I would like to hard plumb everything (if possible)

I am confused as to how to go about this.

I could use a little help please.

MaiReef · Mar 5, 2019

Use the 1" on the return line and reduce the 3/4" to 1/2" on the manifold and use 1 - 1/2" sensor after the pump and another before the the gate valve on the last part of the manifold. Having a bit of soft to the reactor and UV isn't a bad thing. Everywhere else can be hard plumbed, but I suggest securing the hard plumbing.

Dj City · Mar 5, 2019

MaiReef said:
Use the 1" on the return line and reduce the 3/4" to 1/2" on the manifold and use 1 - 1/2" sensor after the pump and another before the the gate valve on the last part of the manifold. Having a bit of soft to the reactor and UV isn't a bad thing. Everywhere else can be hard plumbed, but I suggest securing the hard plumbing.

I hear you but for some reason (Brain Fog) I can't "see" it.
I can't visualize what it should look like.

Dj City · Mar 5, 2019

This is a very crude drawing of what I think the manifold will look like but not sure HOW it will work or where to put sensors.

So far, I only have 2 things to run from the manifold but want at least 4 ports for future things if needed.

Dj City · Mar 5, 2019

I think I figured it out!

Anyone see any problems or issues with this?
Too many unions?

Dj City · Mar 6, 2019

This is my idea for the manifold so far.
Anyone see any problems or anything I should do differently?

Dj City · Mar 7, 2019

DCR · Mar 8, 2019

It will work. FWIW, the DCP 10000 is really overkill for a reactor and a UV. You could easily combine these with the main return with just a one inch manifold and save some power.

I am not sure why you want all of the unions in your manifold piping. I would certainly have one on the discharge of the pump and on each flow sensor, but the others are just leak points and will take up a lot space IMO. The manifold just needs to be a series of 1x1 (if you want the return in it) and two or more 1x1/2 tees welded together. The branch connections can either be socket weld or threaded depending on the type of valve you intend to use. Put a valve immediately after each branch for control and isolation and then put the flow sensors. I would go soft vinyl connections on the 1/2" after the flow sensors. You can add additional tees to the manifold for future connections if you like with threaded plugs, or pay the money upfront for the valves.

Consider carefully whether you want threaded or socket welded valves. The threaded valves can be re-used if you decide to change the design down the road, but you have to make sure you allow enough space between the take-offs to in-thread (turn) the valves. With tall gate valves, it can require that the tees be spaced far apart and make the manifold large. The unions you show around the valves would eliminate this issue but it adds quite a bit of piping.

Dj City · Mar 8, 2019

DCR said:
It will work. FWIW, the DCP 10000 is really overkill for a reactor and a UV. You could easily combine these with the main return with just a one inch manifold and save some power.

I am not sure why you want all of the unions in your manifold piping. I would certainly have one on the discharge of the pump and on each flow sensor, but the others are just leak points and will take up a lot space IMO. The manifold just needs to be a series of 1x1 (if you want the return in it) and two or more 1x1/2 tees welded together. The branch connections can either be socket weld or threaded depending on the type of valve you intend to use. Put a valve immediately after each branch for control and isolation and then put the flow sensors. I would go soft vinyl connections on the 1/2" after the flow sensors. You can add additional tees to the manifold for future connections if you like with threaded plugs, or pay the money upfront for the valves.

Consider carefully whether you want threaded or socket welded valves. The threaded valves can be re-used if you decide to change the design down the road, but you have to make sure you allow enough space between the take-offs to in-thread (turn) the valves. With tall gate valves, it can require that the tees be spaced far apart and make the manifold large. The unions you show around the valves would eliminate this issue but it adds quite a bit of piping.

@DCR
THANK YOU!!!

The DCP 1000o is just the pump I had laying around so I figured I would use it instead of buying another pump. If I need to expand the things the manifold runs, I might appreciate the extra power the Jeabo 10000 has.

Everything I have is slip. The unions are slip, the gate valves are slip the tee's are slip. I think that's why I have so many unions all over the place.
I already have pretty much ALL the plumbing already so I figure i will just go with it.

I'm still trying to wrap my head around this whole thing. This is my first manifold so I guess i'm overbuilding it. I just wanted to be ready to change out a single gate valve or flow sensor if need be without having to replace a whole lot.