FOWLR or Softie Reef?

brian313313 · Jul 4, 2017

I am setting up a new 90 gallon aquarium. I was thinking of doing this as a FOWLR but I am considering adding some zoas/polyps too. I'd like to get some opinions on whether I'm likely to have success with my setup. I've tried reef in the past and had early success but at some point, I either get hair algae or cyanobacteria. If I keep the lighting low I shouldn't have a problem with this but I'll probably need to raise it for corals, even if I just stick with the easy softies.

Lighting:
I have a dual T5 fixture (104 watts), although I could upgrade the fixture to a couple reef-capable LED fixtures. (I'm looking at Reefbreeders SuperLux.)

Filtration:
The filtration is live rock and an AquaClear 110 with Chemi-Pure. I don't know the weight of the live rock, but it was 3-five gallon buckets full. I'll probably have about 1" sand bed also. I can't get a sump because it's next to the TV and sump/skimmer make too much noise. I also have a bad back and cannot get under the aquarium very easily.

Water Changes:
I have several aquariums and am good about water changes, but I only want to do 10%/week or even less. I will test and adjust if necessary but don't want it to be too high. I'll need to use tap water for my setup since I don't have anywhere to put a RODI and don't have a source very close to home. I have about 1ppm nitrates in my tap water. TDI is very low.

Stocking:
Definitely: 2 Clowns, 1 Flame Angel, & Hermit Crabs.
Other possibilities: Some schooling fish like Anthia or Chromis.

Should I stick with FOWLR or do you think I'd have success with a softie only reef?

Thanks for any advice.

clsanchez77 · Jul 4, 2017

With the fish stocking list you have, absolutely go with a softie reef...no reason to be FOWLR unless you have large predator fish that would eat the soft corals. Many people will disagree but for most soft corals, less filtration is better. Id probably add a HOB skimmer (you can find quite venturi such as the CPR backpack - will be good enough for your tank) but the AquaCear will be useful in a soft coral tank.

Dont kill yourself on the lighting, T-5's are more than adequate!

1 ppm nitrates is not a problem, what is the phosphates?

Softie reef is very doable and within your reach based on the info you have provided.

Kershaw · Jul 4, 2017

They have very small rodi systems that can go under a bathroom sink. There are other things in tap water that can cause problems that are not shown by a tds meter.
I'm sure you have success with softys. But I assume you always get hair algae and cyno due to your water, over feeding.
IMO I would get a small ro/di unit. I would get a good hang on skimmer, they are not all loud. I never had t5 so I am unsure on how they will do with softys

clsanchez77 · Jul 4, 2017

btw, my first "big" reef tank was also a 90 gallon. I ran a CPR HOB fuge and a Remora skimmer in the sump. I kept polyps, gorgonias and LPS. The lighting was VHO and MH, but all T5's would have been good enough - they just did not exist yet

.

Good point on the RO/DI, you can get some good undercounter units, they dont all need to be large X-stage units.

You can keep even SPS under all T-5's. We used to do this before LED's existed. They will still work just the same now

Kershaw · Jul 4, 2017

Here is one

brian313313 · Jul 4, 2017

I just checked and I don't have a phosphate test kit. I need to head to the store today to get some salt & new bulbs so I can check with them when I get there. They may test it for me for free. I'm a long-time customer. The tap water is used on several freshwater tanks and there have been no problems so hopefully that's a good indicator of no contaminants.

One problem with the RODI is that I just gave one away. In fact, it was the RO Buddie mentioned. lol. Mine no longer had the parts to hook into the plumbing though. It was set to attach to the faucet and we moved and the new faucets didn't fit. I can be forgetful and I've let it overrun on several occasions. I used to set the bucket on the toilet so that if it overflowed it would just go into the toilet. In the new place, it won't reach though. I could look into if this has a bathtub/shower fitting though. We have two bathrooms and the second tub is not used for anything so I could set the bucket in there.

Kershaw · Jul 4, 2017

brian313313 said:
I just checked and I don't have a phosphate test kit. I need to head to the store today to get some salt & new bulbs so I can check with them when I get there. They may test it for me for free. I'm a long-time customer. The tap water is used on several freshwater tanks and there have been no problems so hopefully that's a good indicator of no contaminants.

One problem with the RODI is that I just gave one away. In fact, it was the RO Buddie mentioned. lol. Mine no longer had the parts to hook into the plumbing though. It was set to attach to the faucet and we moved and the new faucets didn't fit. I can be forgetful and I've let it overrun on several occasions. I used to set the bucket on the toilet so that if it overflowed it would just go into the toilet. In the new place, it won't reach though. I could look into if this has a bathtub/shower fitting though. We have two bathrooms and the second tub is not used for anything so I could set the bucket in there.

I make my water outside. If your set on tap water go for it. But i suspect you will have problems.

brian313313 · Jul 4, 2017

Tap water testing resulted in high phosphates. Looks like I'll be getting the RODI unit after all.

jrwoltman · Jul 4, 2017

Do the softie, zoa tank. "Easier" to care for than full on reef and you will really appreciate the movement and colours. Being that softies are quick growers, sometimes to the point of nuisance, many reefers give chunks away free.

clsanchez77 · Jul 4, 2017

brian313313 said:
Tap water testing resulted in high phosphates. Looks like I'll be getting the RODI unit after all.

That would be best. @Kershaw has a good under the sink example. If you are just the slightest handle, you can disconnect the sink cold water line from the shutoff valve and install a plastic Tee, then reinstall the sink cold water line. I tell people all the time, just tap the waste line into the sink drain underneath. The cost to replace the piece you have to tap is only a few dollars and is very easy to replace. You are talking about $5 in parts and about 30 minutes time to swap out when you move again. You will spend way more time dealing with water changes and algae issue if you do not.

brian313313 · Jul 4, 2017

clsanchez77 said:
That would be best. @Kershaw has a good under the sink example. If you are just the slightest handle, you can disconnect the sink cold water line from the shutoff valve and install a plastic Tee, then reinstall the sink cold water line. I tell people all the time, just tap the waste line into the sink drain underneath. The cost to replace the piece you have to tap is only a few dollars and is very easy to replace. You are talking about $5 in parts and about 30 minutes time to swap out when you move again. You will spend way more time dealing with water changes and algae issue if you do not.

Installing the RODI is not the problem. It's the auto-stop that I don't know what to do. I use 5 gallon buckets typically. I may get a 20g brute on wheels but I couldn't pick that up an pour without spilling quite a bit. I still have the auto-stop issue it's just not as long if I only mix 10 gallons at a time.

clsanchez77 · Jul 4, 2017

I just drilled a 1/4" float into my bucket. I do have a 35 gallon brute can I think in the garage, but I don't move it. I use a pump to transfer to buckets. I plan to run a line in my attic once we get past the summer.

glb · Jul 5, 2017

Kershaw said:
Here is one

I have this one and love it. It's mounted on the wall close to the washing machine and takes up very little space. Keep in mind that tap can also have chlorine and chloramines, which do not register on a TDS monitor. I crashed a tank due to chloramines in rodi water with a TDS of 0 so I learned this the hard way. With your tap water as clean as it is, the filters will last longer. You could also run a gfo reactor that hangs on the back of the tank , although you'd probably want to hide the pump and tubing behind some rocks. Good luck!

Tuffyyyyy · Jul 5, 2017

brian313313 said:
Installing the RODI is not the problem. It's the auto-stop that I don't know what to do. I use 5 gallon buckets typically. I may get a 20g brute on wheels but I couldn't pick that up an pour without spilling quite a bit. I still have the auto-stop issue it's just not as long if I only mix 10 gallons at a time.

This should help with your concerns:

This reminds me that I need to get a couple for myself.

Mark3 · Jul 5, 2017

Kershaw said:
Here is one

this is the one that I use also....I just hook it to the garden hose and fill a 30 gal brute can on wheels....works good for me...takes most of a day to fill, about 8 hours or so for the 30 gallons

filtering your top off water will be the best thing you have ever done for your tank....well worth it, I would say even a MUST HAVE

clsanchez77 · Jul 5, 2017

glb said:
Keep in mind that tap can also have chlorine and chloramines...

Chlorine and Chloramines will destroy your RO membrane. If you have chlorinated water, you MUST have a carbon pre-treat filter. If your community uses chloramines, then you need to pay special attention to the chloramines rating on the carbon block.

brian313313 · Jul 6, 2017

Lots of info here. Thanks for all the feedback. I should have by RO Buddie by the weekend and can install that part at least. I also ordered a float valve shut-off but that won't be here until Tuesday. I have a spare bathroom but no garage and the laundry room is my wife's domain. She'd kill me if I tried to put something in there.

I think I'll get a 20g brute on wheels. I used to have that and got rid of it when we moved into the smaller space. The 5 gallon containers are easier to work with but would fill up much faster. I'll probably start with the 5 gallon buckets though since I already have them.

glb · Jul 6, 2017

clsanchez77 said:
Chlorine and Chloramines will destroy your RO membrane. If you have chlorinated water, you MUST have a carbon pre-treat filter. If your community uses chloramines, then you need to pay special attention to the chloramines rating on the carbon block.

brian313313 said:
Lots of info here. Thanks for all the feedback. I should have by RO Buddie by the weekend and can install that part at least. I also ordered a float valve shut-off but that won't be here until Tuesday. I have a spare bathroom but no garage and the laundry room is my wife's domain. She'd kill me if I tried to put something in there. I think I'll get a 20g brute on wheels. I used to have that and got rid of it when we moved into the smaller space. The 5 gallon containers are easier to work with but would fill up much faster. I'll probably start with the 5 gallon buckets though since I already have them.

I use 5g buckets and it takes about 50-55 minutes to fill one with RODI with this unit. The waste water bucket fills in about 20-25 minutes so it has to be changed out more. I have 4 buckets designated for RODI for bigger water changes. The nice thing is they stack and don't take much room.