fox face help

floridabromo

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so my fox face has ick and I'm trying to get it out of my tank.. I've been chasing it around for over an hour now and have no luck.. can anyone offer advice as to what is the best way to remove them?
 
so my fox face has ick and I'm trying to get it out of my tank.. I've been chasing it around for over an hour now and have no luck.. can anyone offer advice as to what is the best way to remove them?
Catching a foxface is a pain and I hate using a net because the spines can get hung up on it and hurt the fish. Unfortunately, that is probably your best bet.

Will it be possible for you to pull the rock out of your system to gradually remove its protection?

Is it the only fish in your system? If it's not, you will need to catch all of the fish since they will all be ich carriers at this point.
 
Are you sure it has ich and not just debris stuck to it? @Humblefish and I had a conversation about this when I thought mine had ich (turned out to be debris.) Between the thick slime coat and rabbit fish serum being lethal to ich, it's not impossible, but much less likely than with other fish. He gave me this link http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S1050464810000197


And to catch tricky fish, I have, several times, emptied my tank down to a very small amount of water so they don't have as much room to move and hide. Then I use a pump to pump all the water back in the tank quickly once caught.
 
Yeah I ended up getting this stuff from my LFS and its something I can mix in with the food and feed them for 2 weeks and it's suppose to be reef safe so I'm hoping it will work
 
Yeah I ended up getting this stuff from my LFS and its something I can mix in with the food and feed them for 2 weeks and it's suppose to be reef safe so I'm hoping it will work
Is it Metroplex?
 
Feeding the fish metroplex in their food (when bound with focus) will deworm the fish's guts (intestinal worms) but will not cure them of ich. The only way to do that is to remove all fish, leave the display fallow (fishless) for 76 days and treat the fish in a QT via copper, cp or TTM.
 
I was afraid of that.

Feeding the fish metroplex in their food (when bound with focus) will deworm the fish's guts (intestinal worms) but will not cure them of ich. The only way to do that is to remove all fish, leave the display fallow (fishless) for 76 days and treat the fish in a QT via copper, cp or TTM.
There is some evidence that metroplex is effective against marine ich. The problem is the treatment window. There is almost no chance that a 14 day treatment of Metro will eradicate ich. It might help the fish develop an immunity but it will always be in the system. To be sure Metroplex eradicates Ich you would need to treat the fish for 60+ days which could have other issues.
 
I was afraid of that.


There is some evidence that metroplex is effective against marine ich. The problem is the treatment window. There is almost no chance that a 14 day treatment of Metro will eradicate ich. It might help the fish develop an immunity but it will always be in the system. To be sure Metroplex eradicates Ich you would need to treat the fish for 60+ days which could have other issues.

But in those instances where we are assuming it would treat ich, it is dosed in the water, not fed to the fish.
 
I had to catch a couple fish, so far only a couple, and used egg crate to shrink the tank size little by little until he had no where to run. then you could use net or container.
 
It's easier to remove all rock coral and water in to large Rubbermaid bins, remove fish, then add it all back. An hour or two of frustration rather than days of stress and failure. Been there done that. Bite the bullet, use this as an opportunity to re-aquascape! :)
 
But in those instances where we are assuming it would treat ich, it is dosed in the water, not fed to the fish.
I'll see if I can find the study for you. It did work when fed to the fish because it is absorbed by the fish and becomes part of the mucus layer.

It really doesn't much matter though. I haven't seen any studies done on a long enough treatment to actually be effective. :(
 
I might just have to pull them then.. My fox face has it but swims around with my coral beauty and my yellow tang all the time.. I also have a pair of cardinals, a pair of lightning maroons, and a pair of black ice snowflake occeslaris in the tank with them :( so I'm going to have to pull them all
 
My local vet said she was successful in treating ick with metro dosed in the water. I've tried it bound with focus but wasn't successful but that was due to the treatment time I went three weeks along with Paraguard. It controlled it but didn't eradicat it brews right need to treat a long time
 
I have a 55G that I use as a breeder tank for clowns but I guess I could swap them all? Could a 55G handle a foxface, yellow tang, a pair of ocellaris, a pair of maroon clowns, pair of cardinals, and a coral beauty?
 
I have a 55G that I use as a breeder tank for clowns but I guess I could swap them all? Could a 55G handle a foxface, yellow tang, a pair of ocellaris, a pair of maroon clowns, pair of cardinals, and a coral beauty?
As long as you have good filtration, and your maroon clowns aren't overly aggressive, you should be fine.
 
I was able to trap or net all my fish without disturbing my rock or corals (besides an accidental frag or two) fwiw. I had 7 to catch, took me a few days but my fish were not in immediate danger. If they were struggling I would have done what I had to to get them out faster.

Also, I have a pair of clowns, kole tang, regal angel, and 4 wrasses in a 40b with 20l sump (about 50g)

It took about a week of every other day water changes for the tank to stabilize, but my ammonia badge has been yellow since. Make sure you get an alert badge though, indispensable.
 
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I was able to trap or net all my fish without disturbing my rock or corals (besides an accidental frag or two) fwiw. I had 7 to catch, took me a few days but my fish were not in immediate danger. If they were struggling I would have done what I had to to get them out faster.

Also, I have a pair of clowns, kole tang, regal angel, and 4 wrasses in a 40b with 20l sump (about 50g)

It took about a week of every other day water changes for the tank to stabilize, but my ammonia badge has been yellow since. Make sure you get an alert badge though, indispensable.
I have one of those badges! They're the best thing ever
 

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