Foxface

[Rutrag]

I ordered this foxface and received it about a week ago. It came in much larger than I anticipated, and has been in QT (20H) since I got him. I can see no spots or lesions, and the finnage all seems intact. However, this is pretty much what he does, at least whenever I'm in the room, and I haven't seen him eat. He still looks to have good body weight though. I have seen him swim in a normal fashion, but never when he can directly see me. The rapid breathing is a concern, as is the tail-standing. I'm considering moving him into the display where he of course would have more cover and lots of algae to graze. (I'm thinking maybe he's just too uncomfortable in the small QT.). My concern there is of course contaminating the other fish. I can't imagine aggression from anyone in the display, except from the tomini rand which is about 1.5" smaller, but very established. The tomini has shown aggression to other foxface a in the past which I've been able to diffuse through the use of an acclimation box, but I'm afraid this foxface may be too large for my acclimation box.

What do you think?

 

[Canadian-reef]

I ordered a metallic fox face six months ago and he acted very strange for 2 weeks. I was concerned about him. After he settled in he's perfect. Still a bit timid but in perfect health. My tangs don't bother with him when he flashes his spikes. They all get along great. I can't see why you wouldn't be able to introduce him to your display.

 

[Humblefish]

Foxfaces do act a little strange sometimes, however continued heavy breathing is not normal for any fish. What do you have going in QT to provide gas exchange? Powerhead, powerfilter? Let's rule out environmental causes before we move onto a possible fish disease issue.

 

[Rutrag]

Foxfaces do act a little strange sometimes, however continued heavy breathing is not normal for any fish. What do you have going in QT to provide gas exchange? Powerhead, powerfilter? Let's rule out environmental causes before we move onto a possible fish disease issue.

Whisper 2 power filter and Korallia 1050

 

[Lionfish Lair]

If mine was stressed like that, he would no longer be that pretty yellow.

 

[Humblefish]

Whisper 2 power filter and Korallia 1050

Sounds like you've got enough flow going in there. I suspect either flukes or a parasite (in the gills) is possibly causing the heavy breathing. You can confirm the presence of flukes by performing a FW dip (see below). However, be careful when handling a rabbitfish as they have mildly venomous spines.

Your other option is to just assume flukes/parasites, and run the fish thru two rounds of Prazipro and 30 days of copper. Or an alternative parasite treatment method.

Freshwater Dip: Provides temporary relief for Brooklynella, Flukes, Marine Velvet disease (Amyloodinium); possibly even Ich & Uronema marinum (both unproven). Can be used to confirm the presence of Flukes.

How To Treat - Fill a bucket with RODI water, and use a heater to match the temperature to the water the fish is coming from. Aerate the water heavily for at least 30 minutes prior to doing the dip, then discontinue aeration while performing the dip. Fish aren’t overly pH sensitive for short durations like this, but you can squirt a little tank water into the dip just before the fish goes in to help bring it up.

Place the fish in the freshwater (FW) dip and observe closely. It is not unusual for them to freak out a little at first. Also, tangs are notorious for “playing dead” during a FW dip. The important thing is to watch their gills; they should be breathing heavily at all times during the dip. If breathing slows, it’s time to exit the dip. Dip the fish for no longer than 5 minutes. Multiple dips may be done, but it’s important to give your fish a day to recuperate in-between dips.

For flukes, use a dark (preferably black) bucket so you can see if tiny white worms fall out of the fish (especially out of the gills) at around the 3-4 minute mark. The worms will settle to the bottom, so you can use a flashlight to look for them there as well.

Pros - Provides temporary relief for a wide range of diseases in a chemical free environment. Can “buy you more time” until a proper treatment can be done.

Cons/Side Effects - Not a permanent “fix” for any disease, as FW dips are not potent enough to eradicate all of the parasites/worms afflicting the fish. Some fish can have an adverse reaction to a FW dip by appearing unable to maintain their equilibrium once returned to the aquarium. If this happens, hold the fish upright (using latex, nitrile or rubber gloves), and gently glide him through the water (to get saltwater flowing through the gills again). It is also a good idea to place the fish in an acclimation box until he appears “normal”.

 

[Humblefish]

The tomini has shown aggression to other foxface a in the past which I've been able to diffuse through the use of an acclimation box, but I'm afraid this foxface may be too large for my acclimation box.

Just wanted to check on something ... You aren't planning on adding this foxface to a DT with another foxface, are you? That usually only works out in very large systems.

 

[Rutrag]

No. I've had a foxface in that system previously. (2 on 2 separate occasions.). The first one the tomini pretty much killed outright. The tomini accepted the second one after a day or so in the acclimation box and some initial displaying.

 

[Humblefish]

That sounds like one BA Tomini. Most fish won't mess with a rabbitfish due to their venomous spines.

 

[Rutrag]

That sounds like one BA Tomini. Most fish won't mess with a rabbitfish due to their venomous spines.

The first one was small and the tomini kept it pinned in a corner and just wore the foxface out. I don't think he hit home with the scalpels. He charged the second one, but that foxface stood on his tail and flared. The tomini just gave up on intimidating him. As a side note, the tomini does display orange spots on his face when he's ticked.

 

[Rutrag]

If mine was stressed like that, he would no longer be that pretty yellow.

I thought that was odd as well, that he didn't go camo mode.

 

[Rutrag]

Well, I did a 4 minute FW dip on him on March 1 and I had already hit him with a dose of prazipro (February 29). I couldn't see any parasites in the bucket, but I only had a pastel green bucket. This is a video after that dip.
The rapid breathing seems to have subsided, and he's no longer tail-standing and is spending less time on the bottom. There was also some redness at the base of the pectoral fins and mouth that seems to have abated. I did a 5 gallon water change on the QT yesterday.

Today, the eyes seem cloudy. (I know sometimes they just look that way on foxface and rabbitfish.). I did a second FW dip just now. Still no healthy interest in food I'm afraid, and I'm starting to see signs of weight loss. Here's a video of him now.

Should I hold the course in QT? Another dose of prazipro?
Start copper?
Move to DT? (Wondering if he's stressed by the small QT. I don't have a bigger one available.).

 

[Kershaw]

I would not move him until he is eating. Have you tried nori for food? And he is already in qt might as well treat him so you don't infect the rest of your tank.

 

[Kershaw]

Also how are you qt water peramiters ?

 

[Humblefish]

Notice any white specks following the second FW dip? Typically, you want to do a second round of Prazi about a week after the first.

 

[4FordFamily]

Notice any white specks following the second FW dip? Typically, you want to do a second round of Prazi about a week after the first.

X2

Also how is the ammonia level in the tank? Do you have an ammonia badge by sea chem? Ammonia can cause heavy breathing also as the gills become damaged.