Frag System Idea - Thoughts? Advice?

Mike Cruz

Coral Fiend
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Hello everyone. Although I have built too many aquariums/frag systems than I can remember, I will be setting up new frag systems at a new location starting June 1st and I wanted to get your feedback on a design I put together. I am planning on setting up 3 separate systems like this, so I would like to get everything as organized and as right as possible with this build.

Just to note, I am not 100% on the tank sizes yet, I am not 100% on plumbing sizes yet, everything at this point is flexible, but would love to hear your input on the design as well as suggestions on the plumbing especially.

As a rough idea, lets say each frag tank is 40-80g in volume, same will be for the sump and the refugium.

Here is the design:

913900_236759526466332_1493742321_o.jpg


Any and all comments/suggestions/feedback is greatly appreciated.

Thank you,
Mike Cruz
 
Mike,
I have this setup in my basement as my frag tank. I have a 50 gal trough up top with a 100 gal trough beneath it for the sump. I do not have a chiller since I don't need one in my basement I even plumbed it so that it has a drain line tied into my sewer. When I want to do a water change I just open a ball valve and drain as much as I want. I will take some pictures later and post them.
 
This is for my brain, not questioning you.

But why not one larger tub instead of 4 smaller?
 
Mike,
I have this setup in my basement as my frag tank. I have a 50 gal trough up top with a 100 gal trough beneath it for the sump. I do not have a chiller since I don't need one in my basement I even plumbed it so that it has a drain line tied into my sewer. When I want to do a water change I just open a ball valve and drain as much as I want. I will take some pictures later and post them.

Awesome, I would definitely like to check it out. Chiller is only really there as a back up considering the current weather has been extremely hot. These systems will be under AC as well as a dehumidifier. The waterchange ball valve is a great reminder, thank you. Definitely something I want to add.

This is for my brain, not questioning you.

But why not one larger tub instead of 4 smaller?

I would like four different tanks because each tank will be for different types of corals that have different flow/light requirements. One will have sand, others will be bare bottom with racks.
 
10-4, i understand where you are going with this now.

After looking over your idea, i see nothing glarring obvious that says change me or fix me. The only suggestion i have (and its my main concern) is locating the Apex unit and hardware in another spot. Im leary of anything that controls the system being in a position to get wet and malfunction.

Is this a growout system?

edit: I remember what i wanted to add now. IME, setting up a system to be a jack of all trades is too much of a compromise. Id ratehr have SPS/zoas/palys in one system and everything else in another. Just my $0.02, this seems to be a highly debated subject. I base my opionion on what i have seen as far as growth and color goes.

This is of course assuming you are even going to be doing that here...lol.
 
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If they are all using the same return pump and sumps, you will have to also work in separate overflows. You have to either equalize water level between all the tanks or have separate overflows to control the water level in each individually.

OR

If you put bulkheads between the tanks, you can equal out the water level in them, and pump water into just one tank, letting the flow go from one to the other through the bulkheads....then overflow off the last in the chain. Different powerheads and lighting over each tank will take care of the different requirements of the corals. I have two 20g tanks in my basement like this, plumbed into the system that goes to my display upstairs.
 
I wouldn't ever use a ball valve on a return line. What if something gets stuck in it? If you use flow restriction to control flow, you're just asking for trouble when that restriction gets something in it, gets dirty or something.
 
I see two problems:
1. A single return pump. Since all of your equipment is going to be in the sump (including heaters/chiller), if the pump goes out it could be a major problem. If it were me with thousands of dollars of coral in those tanks I would want two return pumps.

2. Careful with having all of your water go through the Kalk stirrer on a larger system with lots of evaporation. It might be a good idea to have a standard ATO with no Kalk and then run the Kalk Stirrer off of a dosing pump to ensure a steady supply of Kalk. This way you can say "I want 500ml of Kalk Water" per day and the rest will be plain RODI since your evaporation is going to change seasonally.

Also - you might want to run filter socks between the fuge and return pump Chaeto always seems to find its way over baffles and into your return pump. Or, you can run the fuge first and let that empty into the sump and put filter socks before the sump. This way all the detritus is in the Fuge and your sump stays spotless!
 
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I have a ball valve on my return and I never really faced a problem I love it and it helps control flow both ways a lot easier.

Youre talking about the line going to the sump? If not....forget the comments im about to make....

How do you control the flow of water TO that ball valve? Why would you need to slow flow TO your sump?

if everything is plumbed right you dont need that valve... unless its like my system... I have 1.5in pvc with sumps in basement and display upstairs. If I turn pumps off for any maintenance and cant valve it off it will drain quite a while...but I dont use it to control flow. If water crosses my overflow I want it to go to the sumps.

I just see no reason to restrict the drain to a sump. Whats it hurt if the valve is wide open....or not there?
 
Have you seen the tower systems at petco?on the back of them they don't have ball valves but they have smaller pipes as the system gets taller to keep the flow the same through out the system, so by adding the ball valves to the drain lines it would keep the levals in the tanks the same right?
 

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