Frag tank...sand, rock, bare bottom?

Daniel@R2R

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I know most frag tanks are bare bottom, but I'm guessing that's because it looks cleaner and is typically plumbed into the main system. I'm setting up my new JBJ nano as an independent frag tank, and I'm wondering if there's any reason not to put sand and/or lr rubble. I'm thinking for filtration reasons. Thoughts?

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Stability. Having sand somewhere like in a chamber in a sump or Hob fuge gives the system a little bit more stability as far a buffering. I ran one of my frag tanks bare with nothing and ran into ph problems.
 
If its a second system, Id set it up as much like a display as much as possible Sand, LR and the works.
 
I have a small aio frag tank setup. No sand. I have couple pieces of live rock in the display and rubble in a chamber. Are you planning on keeping fish or just coral?
 
I have a frag tank that is bb. Sump also has no sand just a few pieces of live rock. I don't believe frag tanks benefit from sand.
 
A Frag Tank and QT all in one is not a compatible scenario as you would need/want to have the ability to medicate with copper or do a hypo-salinety at a moments notice if Ich or Velvet showed its ugly head. As a Fish Time-Out or observation tank maybe but IMHO would just set it up as a Frag Tank and equipped with what you feel best would keep water quality clean and stable and with or without a CUC.

Cheers, Todd
 
A Frag Tank and QT all in one is not a compatible scenario as you would need/want to have the ability to medicate with copper or do a hypo-salinety at a moments notice if Ich or Velvet showed its ugly head. As a Fish Time-Out or observation tank maybe but IMHO would just set it up as a Frag Tank and equipped with what you feel best would keep water quality clean and stable and with or without a CUC.

Cheers, Todd

Todd, I guess I should probably say that the frag tank will double as an observation tank because if ich were to pop up, then I'd move the new guy to a hospital tank (I have a spare tank for this purpose). Then, I'd have to leave the frag tank fallow for 2 months before introducing any new guys in order to be sure we have no more ich issues...

So basically, I'd bring a new fish in and add him to the frag tank and let him get used to feeding, etc. If he's healthy, after a few weeks he goes into display. If he's sick at all, he'd get moved to a hospital tank. Does that sound more doable?

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Small water volume present stability issues. Sand seems to help however if you prefer bb in frag display and you have a sump then you can have additional live rock in the sump and/or even sand in sump as a remote sand bed , Knowing the vairiable issues, allows you to determine whether 1. To utilize a doser , or 2. use a calcium reactor or 3, kalkreactor. With small water volume, dosers seem to do well and kalkreactor may do well also. Also need to consider nutrient export so choices are protein skimmer or algae scrubber as well,as water changes. Flow is important so flow should be consistent with large systems--lots of flow for good food dispersion and to provide good water movement. Maintaining salinity will likely require an ATO also. Lighting needs to be supportive for growth which means either mh, t5's or LEDs or a combination thereof. Depending upon flow, lighting and equipment utilized anticipate the need for a heater and perhaps chiller . Independent isolated frag tanks require all the same concern and care as your display tank and will typically require similar equipment and care. Some of the equipment described can be replaced with manual effort like dosing or top off. You still will require frequent testing atleast until stable and still much more testing frequency than on you display because as previously said, smaller water volume tends to result in more rapid shifts in stability
 
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