Fresh to Salt

AquaticMomma

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i have a question. i am new to saltwater. i currently have a 30 tank w two seahorses and want to upgrade them to a 55 cube i have. currently it has oscars in it that were babies but are getting to big and need moved anyways. my question is this....their filter is cycled obviously as its been setup a little over a year. if i drain the water but dont clean the filter will that jump start the salt waters cycle? I know ill need to add a few things for the conversion but Im mainly asking about the cycling aspect. I know this may sound like a dumb question to many but I couldnt find a defintive answer and it seems logical that good bacteria would be good bacteri however I know some cant serve in salt as opposed to fresh and vice versa. Thanks in advance.
 
Nope, it's a great question, and welcome to R2R!

Look at it this way. If you transplant every from your 30 into your 55 gallon, you now have 30 gallons of life in a 55 gallon tank. All you need to do is top up the water and you now have a fully functional 55 gallon.

At this point, the 55 will look pretty empty, and you will undoubtedly want to add more livestock, so I suggest you cure some liverock in tubs for a couple months and then add them in.

I used this method when I upgrade my 65 to a 220. I simply filled up the 220, moved everything from the 65 to the 220 and BAM!, I had a really empty, but fully functional 220 gallon aquarium.

I hope that makes sense!
 
Just to be sure we are on the same page....the 55 currently is freshwater. Im asking if the filter currently on it will keep its good bacteria if I convert to salt. Im not moving the filter from my 30 salt to the 55 as Im keep that as my hospital.

Thanks for the help.



Nope, it's a great question, and welcome to R2R!

Look at it this way. If you transplant every from your 30 into your 55 gallon, you now have 30 gallons of life in a 55 gallon tank. All you need to do is top up the water and you now have a fully functional 55 gallon.

At this point, the 55 will look pretty empty, and you will undoubtedly want to add more livestock, so I suggest you cure some liverock in tubs for a couple months and then add them in.

I used this method when I upgrade my 65 to a 220. I simply filled up the 220, moved everything from the 65 to the 220 and BAM!, I had a really empty, but fully functional 220 gallon aquarium.

I hope that makes sense!
 
Nitrospira can live in marine or nonmarine habitats. It has been isolated from ocean water, freshwater, aquarium water, deltaic sediment, deep-sea sediments, soils, and an iron pipe of a heating system (Daims et al. 2001). Nitrospira is part of a nitrification process which is important in the biogeochemical nitrogen cycle. Nitrification is the oxidation of ammonia to nitrite by autotrophic bacteria of the genus Nitrosomonas and oxidation of the nitrite to nitrate by bacteria in the genus Nitrobacter or Nitrospira. This is important in marine environments because too much ammonia or nitrite can cause death in fish. However, Nitrospira and similar bacteria are slow-growing organisms, which means that a newly set-up aquarium without an established population of these bacteria can accumulate toxic concentrations of ammonia and nitrite. In an attempt to fix this problem, commercial companies have tried to market special preparations of ammonia-oxidizing and nitrite-oxidizing bacteria (the mixes included Nitrobacter instead of Nitrospira) that could be put into a new aquarium to establish a healthy nitrogen cycle. However, these mixes were inexplicably ineffective so tests were done to analyze the bacterial content of aquaria water. While bacteria from the genus Nitrobacter are nitrite-oxidizing organisms and could theoretically fill the nitrite-oxidizing niche, the tests indicated relatively high numbers of Nitrospira and no Nitrobacter bacteria at all. Thus, Nitrospira is now considered the dominate nitrite-oxidizing bacterium in aquariums, (as well as in wastewater treatment systems and other reactors as shown by other similar studies) (Hovanec et al.1998). Though water that is too rich in ammonia or has a pH that is too low will inhibit Nitrospira's nitrifying activity.

Check the Kirschman "Microbial Ecology of the Oceans" book. There are differences, especially in the physiology of the bacteria under particular circumstances, but there are many many more similarities, and a realistic and accurate response is prolly beyond the scope of a good answer in this thread. Some bacteria will live in both fresh and SW environments, a few will not live in either fresh or marine environments when they come from the opposite, and the more this is investigated as part of the bacterial genome projects, the more that comes out about what we do not know or are totally unaware of entire families in the Ocean's microecologies.
Also check the Brock Microbiology book, there is a whole chapter dedicated to this topic, the newest (11th edition) goes into some of the use of Sub ribosomal unit seaerches for species of bacteria that have yet to be cultured in the lab, but are being phylogenically classified as we speak. Interestingly enough, procaryotic kingdoms have different distribution profiles based on depth, with Archaea (primarily Crenachaeota spp ) dominating depths below 1000 meters, and species of Bacteria dominating the upper layers and photoautotropohs (eucaryotic algae and Prochlorophytes//Cyanobacteria) occupying the very top layers of the ocean.primary habitats include the surface open ocean, peliagic open ocean below the photozone, deep-see ocean hydrothermal vent biotopes, soft substrates, and a few hypersaline environments that are strictly marine, although there are a few select highly specialized environments as well
 
Welcome to R2R!

First off I'm also relatively new to Saltwater but I understand what your asking. You should be able to transfer your freshwater inhabitants to new tank then you will have to add bacterial seed from either your seahorse tank like a piece of rock, filter sponge, etc. or a bottle of live nitrifying bacteria and wait for your tank to cycle just like starting from scratch. As I understand it the bacteria are different. Oh and of course add salt. I personally wouldn't change to new water because in nature freshwater mixes with saltwater.
 
I had a 10 gallon freshwater hospital tank that I had running for over a year and had not used so I converted it into a saltwater invert QT tank. I did dump all the freshwater and added new saltwater into the tank using the existing HOB filter as is. I did add another HOB filter and about 11 lbs of live rock. I let it run for a few days with the light on 24/7 to grow some algae for the snails and crabs before adding them. I added the following after a couple days:

1 Scarlet Skunk Cleaner Shrimp
1 Blood Red Fire Shrimp
4 Emerald Crabs
4 Turbo Snails
4 Trochus Snails

It has been running for about 8 weeks now and I never saw an ammonia or nitrite spike and my testing is consistently as follows:

Ammonia - 0 ppm
Nitite - 0 ppm
Nitrate - 0 - 5.0 ppm (when it gets to 5.0 I do a water change)
PH - 8.1 - 8.2
Salinity - 1.024
Temp 79 Degrees

Here are some pics of the tank and you can see I even have a large sponge growing on the bottom of the rock in the middle and all the inverts are doing great.

QT Pic 3 2-28-2019.jpg


QT Pic 5 2-28-2019.JPG


IMG_1297.JPG


Hope that helps...
 
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Move your freshwater fish, then start changing water over. Take out some fresh, then add some from established saltwater tank while doing a water change. Might take a bit, but after a few times of doing this, track your parameters. Once specific gravity is matched to seahorse tank, start moving stuff from the seahorse tank such as rock and inverts, leave for a week and check parameters. Once both tanks match up, then acclimate the rest of the livestock to new tank as if they are newly purchased. No need to change filter until needed to handle bioload. I kinda did this to make a "local" tank when I was in florida. I used a freshwater hang on filter and had 0 die off or spike in parameters.
 
Sorry, can’t add anything to the question so I will add a big hardy welcome to the club.
 

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