Freshwater Dip

HotRocks · Jun 21, 2019

HomeSlizzice said:
Also has there been any updated information on the hydrogen peroxide studies?

I know this article ( http://fisheries.tamu.edu/files/2013/09/Monogenean-Parasites-of-Fish.pdf )that was referenced in the flukes page mentions it, and I also know it’s something @Humblefish has been working on.

He is still working on it. More info here:

https://humble.fish/hydrogen-peroxide/

WMR · Jun 21, 2019

Excellent read, when I worked in the business, we had fw systems across from the sw ones, when we’d get a fish that looked bad when it came in, we’d dip them. Surprising what would come off We would run Prazi in some of the systems, copper in some of the systems & we ran UV sterilizers on all the fish systems. Better safe than sorry

JLee60 · Feb 19, 2020

Humblefish said:
Freshwater Dip

What It Treats – Provides temporary relief for a wide range of diseases:

1) Marine Velvet Disease (Amyloodinium ocellatum)
2) Brooklynella hostilis
3) Uronema marinum
4) Flukes (Monogeneans)
5) Black Ich (Turbellarians)

Can be used to confirm the presence of Flukes (see video below).

How To Treat – Fill a bucket with RODI water, and use a heater to match the temperature to the water the fish is coming from. Aerate the water heavily for at least 30 minutes prior to doing the dip, then discontinue aeration while performing the dip. Fish aren’t overly pH sensitive for short durations like this, but you can squirt a little saltwater into the dip just before the fish goes in to help bring it up.

Place the fish in the freshwater (FW) dip and observe closely. It is not unusual for them to freak out a little at first. Also, tangs are notorious for “playing dead” during a FW dip. The important thing is to watch their gills; they should be breathing heavily at all times. If breathing slows, it’s time to exit the dip! (You can chase the fish a little with your hand to be sure he’s alright.) Dip the fish for no longer than 5 minutes. Multiple dips may be done, but it’s important to give your fish 24-48 hours to recuperate in-between dips.

For flukes, use a dark (preferably black) bucket so you can see if tiny white sesame seed looking things fall off the fish (especially out of the gills) at around the 3-4 minute mark. The worms will settle to the bottom, so you can use a flashlight to look for them there as well.

Pros – Provides temporary relief for a wide range of diseases in a chemical free environment. Can “buy you more time” until a proper treatment can be done.

Cons/Side Effects – Not a permanent “fix” for any disease, as FW dips are not usually effective enough to eradicate all of the parasites/worms afflicting the fish. (So, followup treatment in a quarantine tank is a wise course of action.) Some fish can have an adverse reaction to a FW dip by appearing unable to maintain their equilibrium once returned to the aquarium. If this happens, hold the fish upright (using latex, nitrile or rubber gloves), and gently glide him through the water (to get saltwater flowing through the gills again). It is also a good idea to place the fish in an acclimation box until he appears “normal”.

Video by Meredith Presley

Dead flukes in a freshwater dip:

Thanks for the UTube video. Very helpful.

Ross Petersen · Apr 17, 2020

melypr1985 said:
I would leave them in QT for a day or so. Get them eating and observe for any need to do a freshwater dip.

Hey! Old thread here but I'm curious as to your comment re. dipping after QT entry...

Humblefish said:
@Mfreddy This is what I would do in your shoes: Dose Prazipro, wait 5-7 days, do a 20-25% WC and then dose Prazipro again.

There is enough evidence (12-20 white things came off during the FW dip, trigger likes to swim in front of powerheads) to suggest that flukes are probably still present in your aquarium, just at a sublethal population.

Hey Humblefish! Can you remind me - why the water change before the second dose of Prazi? Is this required/recommended for API GC as well?

Ross Petersen · May 6, 2020

melypr1985 said:
I don't use a freshwater dip unless the infestation is severe and they are having problems breathing. OR unless I have a fish that I think has flukes but need to confirm before treating ex: fish in a display and I don't want to just treat the whole display unless I know flukes are present.

Is the current thinking that two doses of API GC into the water column will eradicate ALL flukes? I've had a beautiful Kole tang in QT for 3 weeks and have done two doses of API GC. One small epidermal fluke was evident - but I'm unsure it was a fluke.

Before I transfer to the DT I was thinking about doing a freshwater dip for peace of mind... but nervous it will do more harm than good and that this would be excessive at this time...

Big G · May 6, 2020

Freshwater dips will remove many of the 3 types of flukes. Primarily the surface flukes respond the best to a FW dip. Flukes within the gills are somewhat protected by the mucous coating of the gill membranes. And lastly, the flukes that attack the eyes sometimes are tough to remove if they are within the eyes.
Your soaking in the GC will have removed all of them unless they are some of the prazi resistant flukes we've been seeing lately.

Ross Petersen · May 6, 2020

Big G said:
Freshwater dips will remove many of the 3 types of flukes. Primarily the surface flukes respond the best to a FW dip. Flukes within the gills are somewhat protected by the mucous coating of the gill membranes. And lastly, the flukes that attack the eyes sometimes are tough to remove if they are within the eyes.
Your soaking in the GC will have removed all of them unless they are some of the prazi resistant flukes we've been seeing lately.

Prazi resistant flukes?! Arg! I might do a freshwater dip after all... I have some CP as a backup where needed...

bolo1904 · May 30, 2020

I purchased a pair of clownfish from a reputable LFS. I had them in QT for about 3 weeks and they seem to be fine. I didn't do a FW dip or any medication. Should I do a FW dip prior to transferring to DT?
For my future fish, should I do a dip every time prior to quarantine? Preventive medication in QT? Basically what is the recommended procedure for new fish that "appear" to be healthy at time of purchase?

Glauber · May 31, 2020

I do fresh water dip in fish and corals some times works wonders

Reefer5640 · Jul 14, 2020

ReefWithCare said:
Shouldn't be a problem. I have a separate heater for med dips now . I've always used an airstone --- the heater was the issue in the past but no more .

Oh - there is a fun thing with this shipment - 2 are from 1.025 water and the other is 1.020 water.

I have the QT set to 1.023 right now. I heard you can't really drip overnight fresh because of ammonia in the bag + with dips you can't really drip accumulate unless I use a third bucket.

I use methylene blue to help with this. All fish I have shipped I dip in methylene blue with a rapid drip acclimation (I actually dip all fish in MB regardless of how I got them, just slower acclimation in other cases). I’ve done the float and release to lower salinity but I’ve found they do better with a rapid drip acclimation (more of a steady stream than a drip) and treat the water with methylene blue. (It’s really just a chance to dip them in MB before sending them to the QT). I keep pulling out the water from the acclimation container at the same rate it fills to get the water turned over faster (usually takes 10-15 min. I usually keep my QT about 30/1.022, I’ll take it slower if I’m bring them up to salinity. The methylene blue really helps with the ammonia they dealt with in the bag during shipping and really gives them a boost since it helps get oxygen in their blood as well as being a disinfectant, anti-fungus, and anti-parasitic. Really gives a leg up on starting the QT process.