Frogspawn bleaching. Need advice.

DirtMcGurt

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My 75 gallon is about 2 1/2 years old. With a frogspawn that is about 2 yrs old and it’s bleaching. Yesterday the heads weren’t as expansive but it has its days so I wasn’t alarmed. Today half the heads were much more retracted and I can see fresh bleaching.
I’ve been having trouble keeping nutrients down so I have been dosing NoPox. I thought that could be the culprit but my No3 is about 12 ppm and P04 is 0.09. Dkh is 11.8, Calcium is 310… Unless anyone has any other ideas, all I can think of is calcium. I did have a blocked dosing tube last week. But this tank has been sailing for a while with no real issues. Any other ideas?
 
Also, should I try saving any heads, or leave it’s while and see what happens?
 
Stop the noPox as it at times causes more problems than benefits.
What test kits are you using ?
As a refresher for their overall requirements, these coral are photosynthetic and therefore respond to UV strength and increase/reduction in lighting. One of the more important requirements for frogspawn is Placement. It is an overlooked element that contributes to the overall acclimation and sustainability of your frogspawn. Some hobbyists simply choose to, Put it where is looks best but to reduce the amount of strain on your specimen, you should ideally place it in an area of your tank similar to the area in which you found it when you purchased it or where there is moderate light. Have you made any changes to lighting ?
Another consideration to account for during the placement of your coral is the amount of light it will be receiving. Although capable of doing quite well in a relatively large range of lighting levels, ideally, your Frogspawn Corals do best when provided a moderate amount of lighting, with many hobbyists finding success with an added bit, or partial, shading. Euphyllia (theyre a member of this group) do not enjoy direct high lighting. Keep in mind that the amount of lighting and the degree of water flow work hand-in-hand in sustaining healthy coral life and growth.
Although technically capable of survival, frogspawn DO NOT appreciate high or even moderately high flow. They will open much bigger in gentle flow, and will be able to grow into those beautiful serene tendrils that you see swaying within your habitat. (see my pic below- this was a size of a quarter a year ago and now 6"x4")
I cannot overemphasize the incredible importance of both lighting as well as placement.
Remember, like any coral, Frogspawn Coral requires a very specific amount of lighting, and in this case, it’s not a whole lot. Unlike many other corals, Frogspawn Corals don’t require a whole lot of lighting. They are also 100 PAR, but even levels as low as 50 PAR will work well for this beautiful species.
To ensure successful acclimation, growth, and just overall, general health, your Frogspawn Corals prefer a moderate to strong water flow within your habitat. Interestingly enough, you can control the growth .If you want to look for a more contract compacted look, a higher flow will help you to achieve that. If you want a more extended, sway appearance from your Frogspawn, a low to moderate flow.
 
Also, should I try saving any heads, or leave it’s while and see what happens?
Read what I mention and adjust if you feel too much or too little , or if you made changes, revert to previous setting. Also add some aminos to tank. I use Seachem fuel.
These are mine:

660g 9.1a.png
 
Stop the noPox as it at times causes more problems than benefits.
What test kits are you using ?
As a refresher for their overall requirements, these coral are photosynthetic and therefore respond to UV strength and increase/reduction in lighting. One of the more important requirements for frogspawn is Placement. It is an overlooked element that contributes to the overall acclimation and sustainability of your frogspawn. Some hobbyists simply choose to, Put it where is looks best but to reduce the amount of strain on your specimen, you should ideally place it in an area of your tank similar to the area in which you found it when you purchased it or where there is moderate light. Have you made any changes to lighting ?
Another consideration to account for during the placement of your coral is the amount of light it will be receiving. Although capable of doing quite well in a relatively large range of lighting levels, ideally, your Frogspawn Corals do best when provided a moderate amount of lighting, with many hobbyists finding success with an added bit, or partial, shading. Euphyllia (theyre a member of this group) do not enjoy direct high lighting. Keep in mind that the amount of lighting and the degree of water flow work hand-in-hand in sustaining healthy coral life and growth.
Although technically capable of survival, frogspawn DO NOT appreciate high or even moderately high flow. They will open much bigger in gentle flow, and will be able to grow into those beautiful serene tendrils that you see swaying within your habitat. (see my pic below- this was a size of a quarter a year ago and now 6"x4")
I cannot overemphasize the incredible importance of both lighting as well as placement.
Remember, like any coral, Frogspawn Coral requires a very specific amount of lighting, and in this case, it’s not a whole lot. Unlike many other corals, Frogspawn Corals don’t require a whole lot of lighting. They are also 100 PAR, but even levels as low as 50 PAR will work well for this beautiful species.
To ensure successful acclimation, growth, and just overall, general health, your Frogspawn Corals prefer a moderate to strong water flow within your habitat. Interestingly enough, you can control the growth .If you want to look for a more contract compacted look, a higher flow will help you to achieve that. If you want a more extended, sway appearance from your Frogspawn, a low to moderate flow.
As for the test kits, I used Red Sea for the Alk and Calcium. Hannah for the P04 and NYOS for N03.
It’s been in the same place, about half way down, in my tank for the past 2 years and flourished there. The only changes I’ve made in the last year were changes to get the nutrients down. I’ve used NoPox every time without any issues. No changes have been made to lighting since I set up the lights over 2 years ago.
 
As for the test kits, I used Red Sea for the Alk and Calcium. Hannah for the P04 and NYOS for N03.
It’s been in the same place, about half way down, in my tank for the past 2 years and flourished there. The only changes I’ve made in the last year were changes to get the nutrients down. I’ve used NoPox every time without any issues. No changes have been made to lighting since I set up the lights over 2 years ago.
Any black or grey bugs ?
Temperature spikes?
That is weird
 

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