Frogspawn coral issue

[vetteguy53081]

Seems like my frogspawn coral Started to have an issue recently. A part of the skeleton exposed when the lights go off. My torch has retracted since few weeks. Even after dipping in coral Rx, no pests were found. My cleaner shrimp is nipping at the exposed area too.
My parameters are pretty much stable and as follows

kH - 7.4
Mg - 1500
Ca - 430
Po4- 0.1
No3- 2.5
PH- 8
Salinity- 1.025
Temp - 26

I didn’t dip the frogspawn as yet. Don’t know whether this is a pest issue or cos of water chemistry. I do a 20% water change once or twice a month. And feed corals 2-3 times a week with AB+ and reefroids. Can someone tell me what to check or do to overcome this? Thanks.

This is tissue recession and due to stress. Hammers require stable tank conditions and is intolerant to major swings in water quality, and is sensitive to almost any level of copper in the water.
Calcium and alkalinity are two very important water parameters that will affect the growth of this coral which will start to die off if the calcium levels are too low. A calcium level of about 400 ppm is just right.
Euphyllia isn’t terribly picky when it comes to the proper placement in your tank and best is to avoid the extremes which are extremely bright locations and areas of very high current, as well as avoiding areas that are too dark or with currents that are too low. High currents risk damaging the soft, fleshy polyps (and getting an infection) and bright lights will cause bleaching. Insufficient lighting will cause the coral to wither away and starve to death.
Hammer corals require just a moderate amount of light for photosynthesis and will grow well in the middle regions of your tank. Just about any reef LED lighting should work for these guys. Placing them on the sand bed often will allow sand to irritate it.
The polyps should sway in the current, but not under so much flow that they are constantly bent over their skeleton. Too much flow will tear the polyps (worst case) and cause the polyps to not extend so, don’t give them too much flow.

 

[EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal]

This is tissue recession and due to stress. Hammers require stable tank conditions and is intolerant to major swings in water quality, and is sensitive to almost any level of copper in the water. Since they are a large polyp stony coral, calcium and alkalinity are two very important water parameters that will affect the growth of your coral. This coral will start to die off if the calcium levels are too low. A calcium level of about 400 ppm is just right.
This coral species isn’t terribly picky when it comes to the proper placement in your tank. The trick would really be just to avoid the extremes. Avoid extremely bright locations or areas of very high current, and avoid areas that are too dark or with currents that are too low. Fast currents risk damaging the soft, fleshy polyps (and getting an infection). Bright lights will cause bleaching. Insufficient lighting will cause the poor coral to wither away and starve to death.
Hammer corals only require a moderate amount of light for photosynthesis and can grow well in the intermediate regions of your tank. Just about any reef LED lighting should be sufficient for most tanks. Reduce white light intensity and get it off the sand bed which sand can irritate it.
The polyps should sway in the current, but not sustain so much pressure they are constantly bent over their skeleton. Too much flow will tear the polyps (worst case) and cause the polyps do not extend in the first place (best case). So, don’t give them too much flow.

Nice "copy and paste" reply about a different coral, lol
(Yes, hammers and frogs are very similar, but at least take the time to respond with your own reply, not plagiarize! Last time I looked, you don't write for Saltwater Aquarium!! smh)

 

[Patrick Murphy]

Y

This is tissue recession and due to stress. Hammers require stable tank conditions and is intolerant to major swings in water quality, and is sensitive to almost any level of copper in the water. Since they are a large polyp stony coral, calcium and alkalinity are two very important water parameters that will affect the growth of your coral. This coral will start to die off if the calcium levels are too low. A calcium level of about 400 ppm is just right.
This coral species isn’t terribly picky when it comes to the proper placement in your tank. The trick would really be just to avoid the extremes. Avoid extremely bright locations or areas of very high current, and avoid areas that are too dark or with currents that are too low. Fast currents risk damaging the soft, fleshy polyps (and getting an infection). Bright lights will cause bleaching. Insufficient lighting will cause the poor coral to wither away and starve to death.
Hammer corals only require a moderate amount of light for photosynthesis and can grow well in the intermediate regions of your tank. Just about any reef LED lighting should be sufficient for most tanks. Reduce white light intensity and get it off the sand bed which sand can irritate it.
The polyps should sway in the current, but not sustain so much pressure they are constantly bent over their skeleton. Too much flow will tear the polyps (worst case) and cause the polyps do not extend in the first place (best case). So, don’t give them

Nice "copy and paste" reply about a different coral, lol
(Yes, hammers and frogs are very similar, but at least take the time to respond with your own reply, not plagiarize! Last time I looked, you don't write for Saltwater Aquarium!! smh)

I was gonna say it, but figured I would let it slide. Lol glad someone did.

 

[EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal]

Y


I was gonna say it, but figured I would let it slide. Lol glad someone did.

Oh, he is notorious for posting others' work as if it's his own. I mean, using a sentence or 2 to save time is not a big deal (and I doubt anyone but the original author would even notice), but he posts entire articles with no citation or credit given.
It's just plain wrong!

 

[TheReefDiary]

Oh, he is notorious for posting others' work as if it's his own. I mean, using a sentence or 2 to save time is not a big deal (and I doubt anyone but the original author would even notice), but he posts entire articles with no citation or credit given.
It's just plain wrong!

Is he writing a book or making money off the post? All he did was provide a response, don't see why it matters where it comes from. Not like it says this is my work and I claim it as such. Think youre making a bigger deal over something that's not really that important.

 

[EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal]

Is he writing a book or making money off the post? All he did was provide a response, don't see why it matters where it comes from. Not like it says this is my work and I claim it as such. Think youre making a bigger deal over something that's not really that important.

It's important because he constantly touts himself as "the expert" on any number of topics, yet apparently can't compose an original response.

Long history with this behavior from VG; if you don't think it's an issue, fine, move on. But to those of us who have endured his ridicule over the years, it's definitely important and worth calling him out.

*It takes a lot less time to link to the article you're plagiarizing than to copy the contents and past them as your own...

 

[vetteguy53081]

Is he writing a book or making money off the post? All he did was provide a response, don't see why it matters where it comes from. Not like it says this is my work and I claim it as such. Think youre making a bigger deal over something that's not really that important.

Erin is a jerk and will always be. Has nothing better to do than to redicule and mock others- with continued disrespect for many others
Thank you

 

[TheReefDiary]

It's important because he constantly touts himself as "the expert" on any number of topics, yet apparently can't compose an original response.

Long history with this behavior from VG; if you don't think it's an issue, fine, move on. But to those of us who have endured his ridicule over the years, it's definitely important and worth calling him out.

*It takes a lot less time to link to the article you're plagiarizing than to copy the contents and past them as your own...

Again don't see how it's his own, but whatever you say. If calling him out for providing a response he didn't claim was his makes ya feel better then I guess more power to you.

 

[shwareefer]

Run some carbon or a Polyfilter for a week. If you can do an enclosure (little plastic fruit baskets that strawberries come in work great) to keep the shrimp off it, that would be good. 2 minute dip in peroxide might help any infection and nuke the algae creep at the same time. I myself just squirt it with 3% peroxide (focus on the skeleton and edges of the polyp, not the center of the polyp) and let it stand outside for 2 minutes then rinse it in the tank near the overflow and put it back. It will look worse before it looks better if you go ther peroxide route. Frogspawn handle it pretty well though. My 2cents.

 

[James5214]

No one says "you can rip the flesh OFF with flow". The issue is that as the coral inflates and deflates, too much flow can cause the flesh to be pushed against the sharp septa in a way that makes SMALL TEARS, which can then become infected.

Lol thanks for clearifying that with him

 

[James5214]

I always dip new corals, even if they came from a clean system, so I'd first start with that. I also think your alk is relatively low in my opinion, but obviously everyone's systems are different but I'd aim for above 8 at least. Your corals are most likely using up a lot of alk so I'd dose it if you notice you can sustain it with water changes alone.

Also like you said make sure none of the CUC are irritating the coral.

As stated my CUC I see them all over my zoas my pipe organ and makes them upset

 

[CypherSloth]

Measures like an iodine dip would be helpful. It’s best to try something, but not so much as to cause stress or worsen the problem. Figuring out the best actions and actually pursuing them is probably your best course here (iodine dip, watch for nuisances, algae under control)