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Let me know if you notice any difference in how the tank flows in a few minutesAmazing thank you!
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Let me know if you notice any difference in how the tank flows in a few minutesAmazing thank you!
I’m seeing a difference for sure, but my lights are just scheduling to go down now so the corals are closing up quick. The way I had it makes sense for that back eddy but I had no idea if the flow bouncing off of the panel and back to the frogspawn was a good or bad thing. Thanks so much for drawing the diagram too, I’ll post tomorrow how it looks once it’s opened back upLet me know if you notice any difference in how the tank flows in a few minutes
How do you tell if the flow is too much or too little though?Same, I am suspecting flow as well. In my experience, that is the biggest maker or breaker for euphyllia’s in my experience.
Not sure what test kits you are using but numbers are mixed I suspect ammonia may be higher than you are seeing. Phos- You want .04 - .06 but no need to chase them.This is my first tank almost 3 months old, and first corals. I added zoas 2.5 weeks ago and they seem like they are doing great, fluffy and bright.
I got a frogspawn a couple of days ago since the zoas were doing well. it was looking great the first couple of days and now half of it looks fine and the other half looks horrible, drooping and discoloured.
in the process of doing testing now:
salinity: 1.025
ammonia: 0
Nitrates: 20
Calcium: 410
Phosphates: 0.25
Kh: 143(is this alkalinity, I only have those stupid api tests right now)
I thought I would ask here if anyone can recognize what could be wrong
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For Euphyllia;How do you tell if the flow is too much or too little though?
Using Api kits, their scale goes from 0, 0.25, 0.5. My reading was somewhere Inbetween 0.25 and 0, no way for me to tell with this kit 0.04 -0.06. What a waste of money haha.Not sure what test kits you are using but numbers are mixed I suspect ammonia may be higher than you are seeing. Phos- You want .04 - .06 but no need to chase them.
The hammer in your pic is a sign of light too bright as it need to be moderate to medium and flow moderate. Avoiding extremes is the name of the game- Avoid extreme light and extreme water flow. Too little light and they shrivel, so you have to create a balance.
What lights are you using?
Suspecting ammonia issues, I would suggest to take a good size water sample to a trusted LFS that does not use Api kits and see what readings they come up with and to compare with yours.Using Api kits, their scale goes from 0, 0.25, 0.5. My reading was somewhere Inbetween 0.25 and 0, no way for me to tell with this kit 0.04 -0.06. What a waste of money haha.
i have the Fluval evo 13.5 so just the stock lights that came with the tank
Thank you for the info, this makes sense to be a flow issue then. The side of the frogspawn that was looking really bad is where the flow would have been too strong bouncing off the right panel as AKG pointed outFor Euphyllia;
1. In low to favourable flow they will extend well instead of retracting or staying small (i say favourable because they are capable of taking alot more flow but its the flow pattern that makes a difference).
2. Look at the movement of the tentacles, you want to see swaying and constant bouncing or back and forth motion. Not the tentacles constantly pushed towards the same direction all the time.
3. The side that is being hit with too much flow/not the right flow pattern will retract or not extend well as the side that has a more favourable flow.
I have the seachem badge for ammonia that has always showed 0. Everything else in the tank seems to be doing great too, it was just this new frogspawn that is acting upSuspecting ammonia issues, I would suggest to take a good size water sample to a trusted LFS that does not use Api kits and see what readings they come up with and to compare with yours.
Seachem badges when new - maybe. I have NO faith in them as they work also for freshwater already questioning accuracy and in an environment exposed to nitrate-foods-poop, etc and like a test strip where you have to remove in 30 seconds, this works accurately sitting in water?I have the seachem badge for ammonia that has always showed 0. Everything else in the tank seems to be doing great too, it was just this new frogspawn that is acting up
That’s a good pointSeachem badges when new - maybe. I have NO faith in them as they work also for freshwater already questioning accuracy and in an environment exposed to nitrate-foods-poop, etc and like a test strip where you have to remove in 30 seconds, this works accurately sitting in water?
My self feeling is. . . I will not trust a $7 badge to sustain a couple hundred dollars of livestock
Every time I pass by the tank today now that the lights are back on the frogspawn is looking better and better, it’s almost back to looking 100%. Thank you for the advice and lesson on flow, worked perfectly and I can troubleshoot on my own some more in the futureLet me know if you notice any difference in how the tank flows in a few minutes
Excellent really glad this worked!Every time I pass by the tank today now that the lights are back on the frogspawn is looking better and better, it’s almost back to looking 100%. Thank you for the advice and lesson on flow, worked perfectly and I can troubleshoot on my own some more in the future

