Frogspawn help needed

Llorgon

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Ok. So my one frogspawn is really not looking good and I'm not sure why. The other 2 frogspawns and hammer coral are all doing well. Nothing has changed with the tank.

This seems to be a common issue with euphyllia in my tank. They grow for awhile, die off then grow again.

I've attached pic below, but the same thing happened with the big hammer. Went from one head to three then back to one now back to three.

The frogspawn in question went from one head to three and now seems destined to go back down to one.

I have an ICP test out that I'm hoping to get back on Monday. Until then any ideas on what could be causing this?

cameringo_20211029_174201.jpg
 
Some things to dwell on . . . . . . . Its more recession than dead. When it comes to any euphyllia care - Lighting and water flow very important when it comes to recession and polyp bailout.
Hammer, frogspawn and euphyllia in general require STABLE conditions. Newer tanks are subject to swings. One of them is calcium. If low or unstable, rarely will euphyllia survive. Location also important. If lights too bright or too dim- they will suffer. Location as far as flow is also important. Too much flow will destroy them over time. The polyps should sway in the current, but not sustain so much pressure they are constantly bent over their skeleton. Too much flow will tear the polyps (worst case) and cause the polyps do not extend in the first place (best case). So, don’t give them too much flow.
Frogspawn and hammers are Not a starter coral and is a moderately challenging species to care for. The large and delicate polyps have a need for stable water parameters, moderate water flow, regular feedings, and the need to test for and maintain calcium levels above 400ppm which puts these great corals in the category of moderate care level.
These coral are photosynthetic and therefore respond to UV strength and increase/reduction in lighting. One of the more important requirements for frogspawn is Placement. It is an overlooked element that contributes to the overall acclimation and sustainability of your frogspawn. Some hobbyists simply choose to, Put it where is looks best but to reduce the amount of strain on your specimen, you should ideally place it in an area of your tank similar to the area in which you found it when you purchased it or where there is moderate light.
Another consideration to account for during the placement of your coral is the amount of light it will be receiving. This decision should never be random; should never be haphazard. Although capable of doing quite well in a relatively large range of lighting levels, ideally, your Frogspawn Corals do best when provided a moderate amount of lighting, with many hobbyists finding success with an added bit, or partial, shading. Euphyllia (theyre a member of this group) do not enjoy direct high lighting. Keep in mind that the amount of lighting and the degree of water flow work hand-in-hand in sustaining healthy coral life and growth. Although technically capable of survival, Frogspawn DO NOT appreciate high or even moderately high flow. They will open much bigger in gentle flow, and will be able to grow into those beautiful serene tendrils that you see swaying within your habitat. (see my pic below- this was a size of a quarter a year ago and now 6"x4")
I cannot overemphasize the incredible importance of both lighting as well as placement. Never, ever haphazardly place your corals, select your lighting, or randomly pair different specimens or species within a tank, and just hope for the best. Remember, like any coral, Frogspawn Coral requires a very specific amount of lighting, and in this case, it’s not a whole lot. Unlike many other corals, Frogspawn Corals don’t require a whole lot of lighting. They are also 100 PAR, but even levels as low as 50 PAR will work well for this beautiful species.
o ensure successful acclimation, growth, and just overall, general health, your Frogspawn Corals prefer a moderate to strong water flow within your habitat. Interestingly enough, you can control the growth .If you want to look for a more contract compacted look, a higher flow will help you to achieve that. If you want a more extended, sway appearance from your Frogspawn, a low to moderate flow. Aesthetically, what originally drew hobbyists to this coral was its ability to serenely sway in the currents.
Frogspawn are not the most aggressive eaters. Broadcast feeding is typically the easiest, most effective approach. Additionally, if there is too great a flow, or if there are fish in your habitat that are aggressively harassing them, they’re just not going to eat. Even if they are able to successfully get the food into their mouths, they often quickly spit it back out--quick enough where they may not even be digesting any of the food. By trying to directly feed, you are much more likely to develop an algae problem from uneaten food accumulating in your tank than you are to find success in direct feeding.
Follow these simple steps and let it take its' course. Theyre easy enough to meet the care needed and yes, they do shrink in the evening. One test- Increase your lighting a little once they shrink, and within the hour, you will see them puff up again.
 
Some things to dwell on . . . . . . . Its more recession than dead. When it comes to any euphyllia care - Lighting and water flow very important when it comes to recession and polyp bailout.
Hammer, frogspawn and euphyllia in general require STABLE conditions. Newer tanks are subject to swings. One of them is calcium. If low or unstable, rarely will euphyllia survive. Location also important. If lights too bright or too dim- they will suffer. Location as far as flow is also important. Too much flow will destroy them over time. The polyps should sway in the current, but not sustain so much pressure they are constantly bent over their skeleton. Too much flow will tear the polyps (worst case) and cause the polyps do not extend in the first place (best case). So, don’t give them too much flow.
Frogspawn and hammers are Not a starter coral and is a moderately challenging species to care for. The large and delicate polyps have a need for stable water parameters, moderate water flow, regular feedings, and the need to test for and maintain calcium levels above 400ppm which puts these great corals in the category of moderate care level.
These coral are photosynthetic and therefore respond to UV strength and increase/reduction in lighting. One of the more important requirements for frogspawn is Placement. It is an overlooked element that contributes to the overall acclimation and sustainability of your frogspawn. Some hobbyists simply choose to, Put it where is looks best but to reduce the amount of strain on your specimen, you should ideally place it in an area of your tank similar to the area in which you found it when you purchased it or where there is moderate light.
Another consideration to account for during the placement of your coral is the amount of light it will be receiving. This decision should never be random; should never be haphazard. Although capable of doing quite well in a relatively large range of lighting levels, ideally, your Frogspawn Corals do best when provided a moderate amount of lighting, with many hobbyists finding success with an added bit, or partial, shading. Euphyllia (theyre a member of this group) do not enjoy direct high lighting. Keep in mind that the amount of lighting and the degree of water flow work hand-in-hand in sustaining healthy coral life and growth. Although technically capable of survival, Frogspawn DO NOT appreciate high or even moderately high flow. They will open much bigger in gentle flow, and will be able to grow into those beautiful serene tendrils that you see swaying within your habitat. (see my pic below- this was a size of a quarter a year ago and now 6"x4")
I cannot overemphasize the incredible importance of both lighting as well as placement. Never, ever haphazardly place your corals, select your lighting, or randomly pair different specimens or species within a tank, and just hope for the best. Remember, like any coral, Frogspawn Coral requires a very specific amount of lighting, and in this case, it’s not a whole lot. Unlike many other corals, Frogspawn Corals don’t require a whole lot of lighting. They are also 100 PAR, but even levels as low as 50 PAR will work well for this beautiful species.
o ensure successful acclimation, growth, and just overall, general health, your Frogspawn Corals prefer a moderate to strong water flow within your habitat. Interestingly enough, you can control the growth .If you want to look for a more contract compacted look, a higher flow will help you to achieve that. If you want a more extended, sway appearance from your Frogspawn, a low to moderate flow. Aesthetically, what originally drew hobbyists to this coral was its ability to serenely sway in the currents.
Frogspawn are not the most aggressive eaters. Broadcast feeding is typically the easiest, most effective approach. Additionally, if there is too great a flow, or if there are fish in your habitat that are aggressively harassing them, they’re just not going to eat. Even if they are able to successfully get the food into their mouths, they often quickly spit it back out--quick enough where they may not even be digesting any of the food. By trying to directly feed, you are much more likely to develop an algae problem from uneaten food accumulating in your tank than you are to find success in direct feeding.
Follow these simple steps and let it take its' course. Theyre easy enough to meet the care needed and yes, they do shrink in the evening. One test- Increase your lighting a little once they shrink, and within the hour, you will see them puff up again.
I'm not the op but this detailed write up was super helpful for me, thank you.
My frogspawn has gone from thriving to surviving and I now know some adjustments to make and see if I'm able to turn it around.
 
Some things to dwell on . . . . . . . Its more recession than dead. When it comes to any euphyllia care - Lighting and water flow very important when it comes to recession and polyp bailout.
Hammer, frogspawn and euphyllia in general require STABLE conditions. Newer tanks are subject to swings. One of them is calcium. If low or unstable, rarely will euphyllia survive. Location also important. If lights too bright or too dim- they will suffer. Location as far as flow is also important. Too much flow will destroy them over time. The polyps should sway in the current, but not sustain so much pressure they are constantly bent over their skeleton. Too much flow will tear the polyps (worst case) and cause the polyps do not extend in the first place (best case). So, don’t give them too much flow.
Frogspawn and hammers are Not a starter coral and is a moderately challenging species to care for. The large and delicate polyps have a need for stable water parameters, moderate water flow, regular feedings, and the need to test for and maintain calcium levels above 400ppm which puts these great corals in the category of moderate care level.
These coral are photosynthetic and therefore respond to UV strength and increase/reduction in lighting. One of the more important requirements for frogspawn is Placement. It is an overlooked element that contributes to the overall acclimation and sustainability of your frogspawn. Some hobbyists simply choose to, Put it where is looks best but to reduce the amount of strain on your specimen, you should ideally place it in an area of your tank similar to the area in which you found it when you purchased it or where there is moderate light.
Another consideration to account for during the placement of your coral is the amount of light it will be receiving. This decision should never be random; should never be haphazard. Although capable of doing quite well in a relatively large range of lighting levels, ideally, your Frogspawn Corals do best when provided a moderate amount of lighting, with many hobbyists finding success with an added bit, or partial, shading. Euphyllia (theyre a member of this group) do not enjoy direct high lighting. Keep in mind that the amount of lighting and the degree of water flow work hand-in-hand in sustaining healthy coral life and growth. Although technically capable of survival, Frogspawn DO NOT appreciate high or even moderately high flow. They will open much bigger in gentle flow, and will be able to grow into those beautiful serene tendrils that you see swaying within your habitat. (see my pic below- this was a size of a quarter a year ago and now 6"x4")
I cannot overemphasize the incredible importance of both lighting as well as placement. Never, ever haphazardly place your corals, select your lighting, or randomly pair different specimens or species within a tank, and just hope for the best. Remember, like any coral, Frogspawn Coral requires a very specific amount of lighting, and in this case, it’s not a whole lot. Unlike many other corals, Frogspawn Corals don’t require a whole lot of lighting. They are also 100 PAR, but even levels as low as 50 PAR will work well for this beautiful species.
o ensure successful acclimation, growth, and just overall, general health, your Frogspawn Corals prefer a moderate to strong water flow within your habitat. Interestingly enough, you can control the growth .If you want to look for a more contract compacted look, a higher flow will help you to achieve that. If you want a more extended, sway appearance from your Frogspawn, a low to moderate flow. Aesthetically, what originally drew hobbyists to this coral was its ability to serenely sway in the currents.
Frogspawn are not the most aggressive eaters. Broadcast feeding is typically the easiest, most effective approach. Additionally, if there is too great a flow, or if there are fish in your habitat that are aggressively harassing them, they’re just not going to eat. Even if they are able to successfully get the food into their mouths, they often quickly spit it back out--quick enough where they may not even be digesting any of the food. By trying to directly feed, you are much more likely to develop an algae problem from uneaten food accumulating in your tank than you are to find success in direct feeding.
Follow these simple steps and let it take its' course. Theyre easy enough to meet the care needed and yes, they do shrink in the evening. One test- Increase your lighting a little once they shrink, and within the hour, you will see them puff up again.
Ok, lots of info here.

You're right, it's recession and not dead. But this is how precious euphyllia have progressed so I wanted to see if I can stop it.

The tank is a little over 2 years old and I've had the frogspawn in question for about 6 months or so. The hammer in the photo was one of the first corals I put in the tank. It's slightly higher in the tank, maybe by about an inch or so. I do think it gets a bit more flow though. The frogspawn in question is in a low flow area.

Admittedly, I haven't checked calcium in awhile. It's in a 25 gallon and I do a weekly 5g water change which, at least until now has been keeping params stable.

I'll check my params today and see what they are at.
Is the torch zinging it?
That's a frogspawn. Or at least that's what I was told. Got it as a freebie at the lfs. Would be cool if it was a torch!
 
Ok, lots of info here.

You're right, it's recession and not dead. But this is how precious euphyllia have progressed so I wanted to see if I can stop it.

The tank is a little over 2 years old and I've had the frogspawn in question for about 6 months or so. The hammer in the photo was one of the first corals I put in the tank. It's slightly higher in the tank, maybe by about an inch or so. I do think it gets a bit more flow though. The frogspawn in question is in a low flow area.

Admittedly, I haven't checked calcium in awhile. It's in a 25 gallon and I do a weekly 5g water change which, at least until now has been keeping params stable.

I'll check my params today and see what they are at.

That's a frogspawn. Or at least that's what I was told. Got it as a freebie at the lfs. Would be cool if it was a torch!
Not torch. As stated- close to torch but not. A poor man's torch meaning its the closest to having one without paying the price of one
 
Not torch. As stated- close to torch but not. A poor man's torch meaning its the closest to having one without paying the price of one
Ok. I was given the right thing then. Would have been cool to get the free torch though.
Did I get this correct? So did the "not a torch" (but doesn't look like a frogspawn, either) "zing" the frogspawn?

revised.jpg
It's possible. But it doesn't seem to bother the zoa's and I thought euphyllia with the exception of torches could touch each other without issue?

For quite awhile they were touching. Then I moved the "not a torch" away closer to the zoa's to slow their spread.

Tested my water

Alk: 7.7ppm
Cal: 490ppm(not sure how accurate this is. New salifert test kit is iffy for me)
Mag: 1380ppm
N: 5ppm
P04: 0.015ppm
 
Saturday night I moved the frogspawn down on the sand bed beside the other frogspawn that is doing well.

Yesterday it was looking a bit better, but still unhappy. I'll see what it's like today when the lights come on.
 
The frogspawn has been on the sand bed for a few days now. Still not getting the extension it was on top of the rocks, but I think it's looking a little less bleached out.
 

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Some things to dwell on . . . . . . . Its more recession than dead. When it comes to any euphyllia care - Lighting and water flow very important when it comes to recession and polyp bailout.
Hammer, frogspawn and euphyllia in general require STABLE conditions. Newer tanks are subject to swings. One of them is calcium. If low or unstable, rarely will euphyllia survive. Location also important. If lights too bright or too dim- they will suffer. Location as far as flow is also important. Too much flow will destroy them over time. The polyps should sway in the current, but not sustain so much pressure they are constantly bent over their skeleton. Too much flow will tear the polyps (worst case) and cause the polyps do not extend in the first place (best case). So, don’t give them too much flow.
Frogspawn and hammers are Not a starter coral and is a moderately challenging species to care for. The large and delicate polyps have a need for stable water parameters, moderate water flow, regular feedings, and the need to test for and maintain calcium levels above 400ppm which puts these great corals in the category of moderate care level.
These coral are photosynthetic and therefore respond to UV strength and increase/reduction in lighting. One of the more important requirements for frogspawn is Placement. It is an overlooked element that contributes to the overall acclimation and sustainability of your frogspawn. Some hobbyists simply choose to, Put it where is looks best but to reduce the amount of strain on your specimen, you should ideally place it in an area of your tank similar to the area in which you found it when you purchased it or where there is moderate light.
Another consideration to account for during the placement of your coral is the amount of light it will be receiving. This decision should never be random; should never be haphazard. Although capable of doing quite well in a relatively large range of lighting levels, ideally, your Frogspawn Corals do best when provided a moderate amount of lighting, with many hobbyists finding success with an added bit, or partial, shading. Euphyllia (theyre a member of this group) do not enjoy direct high lighting. Keep in mind that the amount of lighting and the degree of water flow work hand-in-hand in sustaining healthy coral life and growth. Although technically capable of survival, Frogspawn DO NOT appreciate high or even moderately high flow. They will open much bigger in gentle flow, and will be able to grow into those beautiful serene tendrils that you see swaying within your habitat. (see my pic below- this was a size of a quarter a year ago and now 6"x4")
I cannot overemphasize the incredible importance of both lighting as well as placement. Never, ever haphazardly place your corals, select your lighting, or randomly pair different specimens or species within a tank, and just hope for the best. Remember, like any coral, Frogspawn Coral requires a very specific amount of lighting, and in this case, it’s not a whole lot. Unlike many other corals, Frogspawn Corals don’t require a whole lot of lighting. They are also 100 PAR, but even levels as low as 50 PAR will work well for this beautiful species.
o ensure successful acclimation, growth, and just overall, general health, your Frogspawn Corals prefer a moderate to strong water flow within your habitat. Interestingly enough, you can control the growth .If you want to look for a more contract compacted look, a higher flow will help you to achieve that. If you want a more extended, sway appearance from your Frogspawn, a low to moderate flow. Aesthetically, what originally drew hobbyists to this coral was its ability to serenely sway in the currents.
Frogspawn are not the most aggressive eaters. Broadcast feeding is typically the easiest, most effective approach. Additionally, if there is too great a flow, or if there are fish in your habitat that are aggressively harassing them, they’re just not going to eat. Even if they are able to successfully get the food into their mouths, they often quickly spit it back out--quick enough where they may not even be digesting any of the food. By trying to directly feed, you are much more likely to develop an algae problem from uneaten food accumulating in your tank than you are to find success in direct feeding.
Follow these simple steps and let it take its' course. Theyre easy enough to meet the care needed and yes, they do shrink in the evening. One test- Increase your lighting a little once they shrink, and within the hour, you will see them puff up again.
Some great information here. Found this as I was was searching for things to check as I have 2 frogspawn, one branching I picked up locally and one wall my wife bought on eBay about two weeks ago. They’re in close proximity and the branching looks great while the wall is recessed and barely visible in the skeleton. It seemed fine for several days and has been unhappy for about a week.

I’ll check calcium (other parameters fine) and move it to lower light - these are in a temporary 14g LED Biocube so not a par monster.

-Eric

56D072CE-F570-4C22-A060-B89A187CDB38.jpeg
 
Some great information here. Found this as I was was searching for things to check as I have 2 frogspawn, one branching I picked up locally and one wall my wife bought on eBay about two weeks ago. They’re in close proximity and the branching looks great while the wall is recessed and barely visible in the skeleton. It seemed fine for several days and has been unhappy for about a week.

I’ll check calcium (other parameters fine) and move it to lower light - these are in a temporary 14g LED Biocube so not a par monster.

-Eric

56D072CE-F570-4C22-A060-B89A187CDB38.jpeg
Get this baby off the sand which can and may irritate them. Light seems bright. Moderate light as well as water flow is best. Low calcium triggers issues with euphylia as does high phosphates if present.
 
Get this baby off the sand which can and may irritate them. Light seems bright. Moderate light as well as water flow is best. Low calcium triggers issues with euphylia as does high phosphates if present.
Thanks!

I’ve always had great luck with frogspawn and haven’t lost a specimen since 2005.

I’ve been doing regular 20-30% water changes weekly and haven’t tested all parameters - found alkalinity at 6 and calcium at 320 tonight . Will slowly raise them over next 2 - 3 days and I’ve dropped the daylight out of the lighting sequence for a bit.

-Eric
 

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