Frustration....and a dolly question

[Actuary]

So I've had perfect parameters for months now and still can't get consistent success. Finally decided the next step is my water barrels. I was dumb when I bought them off Craigslist.....they're obviously used. They don't test for nitrate or phosphate, but they have a significant brown build up on the inside and I can't beat cyano to save my life....or my corals lives. So my new best guess is that there is something in my water that I can't test for, but is still wreaking havoc. So I bought 4 new brute cans today. But the store couldn't find the dollies that go with them. I figured I'd just buy them online but then I thought I'd ask here....

Who has experience with these dollies? They are only rated to 250 lbs, but a full 44 gal barrel is going to weigh around 350. Anyone use these dollies? Any problems?

Thanks

 

[r20crazy]

brown buildup could be sediment/binders from the salt mix (unless you bought them that way)... what salt you use(red sea is common issue)? how old your ro/di filters and tds? have you checked for chloramines from water source? that requires a different carbon block in ro/di unit if present. which dollies you looking at? fyi 44g saltwater is 376 lbs. 8.55 lbs/gal. fresh is 8.36 lbs/gal

 

[Actuary]

brown buildup could be sediment/binders from the salt mix... what salt you use(red sea is common issue)? how old your ro/di filters and tds? have you checked for chloramines from water source? that requires a different carbon block in ro/di unit if present.

I thought maybe it's just the salt but I need an explanation for my problems. I use RPM Blue. Like I said, all my testing comes back good. My RO/DI is nearing a need for cartridge swap, but so far still testing 0 ppm. I trust this reading because I was testing 3 ppm before I added the DI.
Haven't actually tested for chloramines but the carbon stage will catch that, right? Plus I'd hope those would trip a non-zero reading on the TDS meter, right?

 

[r20crazy]

regular carbon blocks expire quickly if you have chloramines, why there is specific chloramine carbon blocks that cost about double. IIRC chloramines do not show on tds (but can show up as ammonia? i dont remember)... I found out my city uses them by calling water provider.. had to switch 1st carbon block to chloramine block in my rodi... and I change it every 6 months making 10 gal/week

what size tank and what is your flow makers? cyano is usually due to low flow areas, overfeeding can cause it too, as well as sugar fine sand or oolite without proper flow

 

[Actuary]

regular carbon blocks expire quickly if you have chloramines, why there is specific chloramine carbon blocks that cost about double.

Hmmm, maybe I should get a chloramine test. My ro/di is 4 stage, stages 2 and 4 are both carbon filters. Fairly recently changed, although I guess if the source water is bad maybe I'm running through them too quickly...?

 

[r20crazy]

you sure its cyano (red) and not diatoms or dinos (brown) in tank? and if you are just moving the brutes a few feet with dollies on smooth level surface I wouldnt worry.... or get a harbor freight furniture dolly for $9 and put a small piece of plywood on it. they hold like 900lbs.

 

[KWT]

I use the harbor freight all wood dollies for me brute trash cans

 

[Actuary]

I use the harbor freight all wood dollies for me brute trash cans

Yeah, I use those for my current 55 gal food grade barrels....they're probably fine for the Brutes too, I just was kind of liking having something fit to purpose instead of my jury rigged barrels that don't quite sit right on the dollies. But it could save me $100...

 

[Blue Spot Octopus]

I think Smart and Final might sell them.