furan 2

[sdietz2469]

i have some keds reds that look to have zoo pox, and i boughtsome furan 2 (api brand)

each packet contains:
60mg nitrofurazone
25mg furazolidone

my question is how much water, how many packets, how long, how often? i looked in the other thread icould find, but it didnt tell me enough info to make me comfortable due to mixed directions.....

so someone with experience, please tune in and please answer with easy dirrections.....
thanks in advance
shane

 

[oceanparadise1]

Doesnt it come with directions?

 

[sdietz2469]

its made for fish and the treatment in designed for a tank, not a quick dip..... and i know the quick dip is a way larger dose than for a fish tank.....

as i said it is to dip my zoos

shane

 

[oceanparadise1]

Ikits for zoas i just didnt know if it had directions with them for the zoas seeing as most people use it for them! Idk, wish i could help but i have never used it

 

[sdietz2469]

no worries..... they dont recommend to use on corals...... just somethin someone found out...
shane

 

[ecotoxlady]

Here are the instructions that I follow as posted in an article by WhoDah:
http://www.zoaid.com/articles004.php
I have used fresh water with my dips that has been buffered to the proper pH (and brought to the right temp) but it sounds like most people use tank water. I hope this helps.

 

[coral88]

Had very good results dosing one packet per cup of tank water. I do not recommend using fresh water, because it stresses the zoas, and I've seen no better result using fresh water. In fact, dipping in tank water even for 20 minutes my zoas are back open within 10 minutes or so of being placed back in their tanks.

 

[ecotoxlady]

I would agree with you coral88. I think using tank water is probably the best option. I just stated that I had used freshwater in my past experience but I also believe that it stressed my zoas so tank water must be the best way to go

 

[coral88]

I did a side by side experiment with tank water and buffered RO the zoas in the RO took at least twice as long to open and the only zoas I’ve ever bleached was because of a freshwater dip so I try to steer people away from zoas and freshwater. Freshwater dips work great for fish not so much for coral. In my not so humble opinion. I don’t like to think of myself as a butt but I’m definitely opinionated. butt some of you might have noticed.

 

[WISDOM]

a little help

I had a bad case of zoa pox, on multiple colonies, and furan 2 didnt really make a big diffrence. But now the pox are completely gone. First, if your using carbon, STOP. Your zoa's have had a dramatic change in light intensity whether they are new, or you introduced carbon, or aggresive skimmimg, just, knock about a hour ,give or take, off your daily light cycle, lower your zoa's if you can, increase your flow, and ill bet you they will be gone before you know it.:headbang: Oh,yeah, please dont use fresh water, to risky, my friend, furan 2 says for marine and fresh, meaning; effective in both, so why put your zoa's through undue stress?

 

[coral88]

I had a bad case of zoa pox, on multiple colonies, and furan 2 didnt really make a big diffrence. But now the pox are completely gone. First, if your using carbon, STOP. Your zoa's have had a dramatic change in light intensity whether they are new, or you introduced carbon, or aggresive skimmimg, just, knock about a hour ,give or take, off your daily light cycle, lower your zoa's if you can, increase your flow, and ill bet you they will be gone before you know it.:headbang: Oh,yeah, please dont use fresh water, to risky, my friend, furan 2 says for marine and fresh, meaning; effective in both, so why put your zoa's through undue stress?

Furan 2 works if it didn't for you you didn't do something right. If you don't use furan you will lose a lot of zoas if not all before it stops. That is if you had zoa pox in the first place. I run carbon and it doesn't make the difference you think it does unless you have really dirty water. I have a light meter I'm not guessing assuming or repeating something I read somewhere.:iconbiggrin:

 

[oceanparadise1]

I have to agree if done right i have heard nothing buy success stories

 

[WISDOM]

Ok

Furan 2 works if it didn't for you you didn't do something right. If you don't use furan you will lose a lot of zoas if not all before it stops. That is if you had zoa pox in the first place. I run carbon and it doesn't make the difference you think it does unless you have really dirty water. I have a light meter I'm not guessing assuming or repeating something I read somewhere.:iconbiggrin:

Furan 2 does work, but it is true that having dirty water then intoducing carbon can cause zoa pox because the sudden increase in water clarity, also increases the light recieved, which is one of the main suspected causes of zoa pox. we can agree to disagree, that zoa pox can be treated with out medication. your right though i probably never say them before.

 

[fly guy]

my input on my limited experience of zoa pox is the opposite of what has been said here in concern to lighting. I will also add that I run high light tanks.

my first time I ever saw zoa pox was earlier this year. came in on a frag I purchased. the frag was incidentally absolutely as heatlhy and fat of polyps as you could ever hope for.....yet it came in with the pox. I followed the directions on coral-pedia and easily made it go away...or so I thought. I guess I did introduce the crap to the tank nonetheless even though I cured that frag in qt...and not in the tank.

I jujst recently had to break down my big tank due to soem extreme crazing and replace it. I built/rebuilt my 9o to be a zoa only tank int he process and when I broke the 225 down i found pox in multiple colonies. I would have never seen it exceopt for I was breaking the tank down and inspecting everything as I did so(especially after finding the pox again) and in every single instance it was polyps that were in the shade and out of the light. I easily have cured every one of them in the last two weeks and everything has been moved over to the 90 and all is well

just thought I would throw that out there

 

[coral88]

I firmly believe that zoa pox is caused by stress bad water to much light to little light. But after it starts it can and will spread to other zoas. I Have seen it in lo light and in tanks without carbon.

 

[oceanparadise1]

I think its caused by any thing stess full. I dont think theres one thing more likey to give ur zoas pox then another. I think in any stressfull enviorment it will be caused

 

[WISDOM]

Can we all agree zoa pox totaly sucks:horse:

 

[oceanparadise1]

yea i guess i can agree with ya on this one

 

[coral88]

I moved some zoas from a tank with 65w PC to a tank with 2x 250w MH light was more than 6 times brighter (measured with light meter) and no zoa pox I don't think adding carbon to my tank with the 65w PC would make that tank anywhere close to the tank with the halides. The first frag moved was a test frag after it I moved 30 more and no zoa pox so the idea that light alone can cause zoa pox is a little hard to sell me

 

[coral88]

I think it is important to talk about things like this so that sooner or later we find the true culprit