Gem tang not eating, sunken stomach

kingkai512

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I received this gem tang about a week ago and it has not eaten since. It is extremely thin and shows the most sunken stomach i have ever seen. I dont see any spots or markings so it has to be something internally right? If he is not eating what can i do to treat him?

He shows no interest in any food thats placed in front of him and just swims the exact same way every day,almost like he has given up on life.

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What kind of treatment have you done? Is it in a QT? What foods have you tried? Have you tried fresh algae?
 
What types of food have you tried?
 
Aww man- Getting pretty thin. I do see spots on him and a possible indicator of bacteria. If that is the case, lets look at water.
First- Are you using RO water or tap water from faucet ?
What test kits do you have ?
Age of tank ?
WHAT IS YOUR:
-Ammonia
-Nitrate
-ph
-Tank Temp
-salinity level
-type of filtration ?

Recommended:
Temp 77-79
salinity 1.024-1.025
ph 8.1-8.3
nitrate < .04
Phosphate < .04
Ammonia < .03

Foods:
Spirulina brine shrimp
Noro seaweed basted with Garlic extract
LRS Herbivore diet
mysis shrimp
Small plankton
Formula 2 flake or frozen

Add selcon vitamins to its foods and also garlic extract alternating every other day
 
I would treat for bacteria and parasites. If he's in the DT I'd try to remove him for quarantine. Prazipro and kanaplex are what I usually use for bacterial and parasitic infections. I'd also slowly lower his salinity, that can make things easier on them and less stressful in certain situations.
 
Is there anything that can treat internal parasites without ingestion?
 
I would treat for bacteria and parasites. If he's in the DT I'd try to remove him for quarantine. Prazipro and kanaplex are what I usually use for bacterial and parasitic infections. I'd also slowly lower his salinity, that can make things easier on them and less stressful in certain situations.
i would not treat Until a condition has been verified. I dont see ich and the spots may or may not be secondary
A freshwater bath for 5 minutes would be more effective right now and awaiting water quality readings will indicate if it is water related.
 
The Tank is over a year old with some larger corals, nitrates and what not are at 0, ph 7.8 salinity 1.027,

I dont think its about trying new foods at this point, it feels like he has just given up
 
The Tank is over a year old with some larger corals, nitrates and what not are at 0, ph 7.8 salinity 1.027,

I dont think its about trying new foods at this point, it feels like he has just given up
I would lower your salinity. Over the next several days I'd see if you could get him to about 1.018. that will improve osmoregulation in his cells and reduce stress. Essentially making it take less energy for his cells to function since they don't have to regulate as much salt. You can also try a freshwater bath as others have mentioned but I'd be careful with that right now since he's in poor shape. Make sure it's the same temperature as the tank and declorinated (or RO if you desire) to reduce the shock of it.
 
The Tank is over a year old with some larger corals, nitrates and what not are at 0, ph 7.8 salinity 1.027,

I dont think its about trying new foods at this point, it feels like he has just given up
I hate to be a "Debbie Downer" but fish don't metabolize fat well. Once they get to a certain point, they utilize liver for energy. At some point, even if they start feeding again, their liver is shot. This fish is also sunken in the back as well, indicating long term starvation, before you even got the fish.

There is a method for tube-feeding fish, but it is tricky to do on smaller fish like this, and you really need a fish anesthetic to do it correctly. Here is some info about it though:

The tube-feeding process can be employed to give the fish food energy during the time it is anorexic. In some cases, this gives the aquarist enough time to determine a permanent solution. This process uses simple equipment—a syringe and a flexible plastic tube. Feline urinary catheters or avian tracheal tubes can be used for small fishes. Larger fishes can be fed using standard airline tubing attached to a large syringe. A Luer-lock syringe will hold the feeding tube more securely to the syringe body. Placing the tube is easier if you first bevel the end of it. The tube should have marks on it at regular intervals so you can more easily judge the depth of insertion.

The basic food recipe is to create a liquid that will easily pass through the feeding syringe and tube but is thick enough to carry a high amount of calories to the animal’s digestive tract with the least amount of water. It is best to prepare this slurry in a blender, using components of the fish’s normal diet.

The amount of food administered at one feeding is generally 2 to 4% of the animal’s body weight, just enough food to cause a slight distension of the animal’s belly. In most cases, the use of an anesthetic, such as MS-222, is required to sedate the fish so the tube can be inserted. Holding the fish on its back, gently insert the tube into its mouth and try to locate the esophagus. If you are too far to one side or the other, the tube will miss and emerge from under one of the gill covers. Once in place, gentle pressure on the syringe plunger will move the liquid food into the fish’s stomach. Once fed, the tube is gently withdrawn and the fish is moved to a recovery tank.

Spontaneous regurgitation is the most commonly seen problem, though there are also reports of people accidentally rupturing the fish’s digestive tract. Like any medical procedure, there are subtle techniques for this process that need to be learned through practice—so please do not expect to read this basic introduction and suddenly be proficient at tube-feeding fish.


Jay
 

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