General sps advice please

[Unstoppable algae!]

The tang! Was malnourished and dropped off by a friend of a friend that was breaking down her tank. I have a local store that wants it, I just need to catch it.

I am really looking for general sps care tips. I have the worst luck, they seem to slowly loose polyp extension and stn over a month. I tried to take a good video showing my flow (not sure if to strong or to weak) rock tip is 350ish par (apogee mq-200) low sps are 220 to 250. Lights on 12hr 6 hr max slightly lower remaining 6hr. 2 hydra 26hd 2 orphek blue bars. Trying to get good coverage.
Parameters are very stable
Alk 8.1
Cal 420
Mag 1280 (trying to raise 1350). All salifert
N03 6-12
P04 .05 Hanna
Ph low 7.8 - 8.1 despite dosing kalk and have a c02 scrubber…
Feeding Roids fauna Marin lps oyster feast & kz coral vitalizer. Bacto balance. Flakes algae strips and pellets.

Go easy with criticism but want to grow sps!!! I can see my jolt beginning to stn

Hoping we can figure something out

 

[BairCorals]

All of the polyps are wiggling so that's good for flow I believe. Might be worth looking into an aqua bio test and see what bacteria you have in the tank. Certain strains of bacteria have been know to cause stn/rtn and the people with aquabiomics, I believe it's called, will be able to tell you what strain it is and how to get rid of it. While you're at it, wouldn't be a bad idea to send an icp test to see if anything else is out of whack or if your tests are showing false info.

Another thing, for your low ph, would be to see what kind of co2 levels are in the room. They could be higher than you expect even with a co2 scrubber. Also could help if you allow more noise in your sump/overflow to have more gas exchange. If your return pipes are under your sump level, you don't get much. I raised mine a half in above the water level and my ph went from 7.8 to 8.1 at its low point.

 

[Reefer Matt Verified Media Partner]

I just happen to make videos for such topics.

 

[Unstoppable algae!]

All of the polyps are wiggling so that's good for flow I believe. Might be worth looking into an aqua bio test and see what bacteria you have in the tank. Certain strains of bacteria have been know to cause stn/rtn and the people with aquabiomics, I believe it's called, will be able to tell you what strain it is and how to get rid of it. While you're at it, wouldn't be a bad idea to send an icp test to see if anything else is out of whack or if your tests are showing false info.

Another thing, for your low ph, would be to see what kind of co2 levels are in the room. They could be higher than you expect even with a co2 scrubber. Also could help if you allow more noise in your sump/overflow to have more gas exchange. If your return pipes are under your sump level, you don't get much. I raised mine a half in above the water level and my ph went from 7.8 to 8.1 at its low point.

Nice! The overflow pipe is under the water and actually causes skimmer bubbles ‍ will raise it know. I think I need to do icp and aqua bionic test just to know. I do weekly 10% or larger biweekly if missed with nyos pure salt.
I dose KZ bacteria with bacteria balance so hoping I have good bacteria, I feel like I have the equipment but am missing something. I have a Walt frag that is a year old and still a frag

I hope that helps PH! I have been trying, good to add I have had windows open almost all month as the weather is beautiful here

 

[Unstoppable algae!]

I just happen to make videos for such topics.

What!! Reefer Matt, that’s cool you posted, I am subscribed to your channel!! Your videos are great, I need your knowledge as I feel I am missing something… if I made videos my frags would turn to skeleton

 

[Reefer Matt Verified Media Partner]

What!! Reefer Matt, that’s cool you posted, I am subscribed to your channel!! Your videos are great, I need your knowledge as I feel I am missing something… if I made videos my frags would turn to skeleton

Thanks! I'm here to help and learn like everyone else. How old is your tank? I suggest lower par for new coral. I like to keep my tank from 100 par on the bottom to around 250-300 up top. I put the lights on acclimation mode for 2 weeks if adding new frags. And yes, Walt Disney acro is a super slow grower, but worth it, imo.

 

[BairCorals]

Nice! The overflow pipe is under the water and actually causes skimmer bubbles ‍ will raise it know. I think I need to do icp and aqua bionic test just to know. I do weekly 10% or larger biweekly if missed with nyos pure salt.
I dose KZ bacteria with bacteria balance so hoping I have good bacteria, I feel like I have the equipment but am missing something. I have a Walt frag that is a year old and still a frag

I hope that helps PH! I have been trying, good to add I have had windows open almost all month as the weather is beautiful here

Having elevated ph will help growth big time! Once my newer tank gets some more corals I'm going to follow the way Chris meckley, from aci, does his setups. Mostly going after ph using kalk and, I believe, keeping the rest of the levels at seawater using a Calc reactor.

 

[Unstoppable algae!]

Thanks! I'm here to help and learn like everyone else. How old is your tank? I suggest lower par for new coral. I like to keep my tank from 100 par on the bottom to around 250-300 up top. I put the lights on acclimation mode for 2 weeks if adding new frags. And yes, Walt Disney acro is a super slow grower, but worth it, imo.

Thank you, I suspect my lights have been too strong at the top . A week ago I got the par meter and found the high point was 500+ par (where the poor Walt has been struggling) so I turned the lights way down to 350 at top.

What made me think that was I got a few decent frags from a local store but put them lower so the nice 1s stay up top but the low frags have been happy and encrusting way better.

All I hear is high light and high flow, I think I went too extreme (high) on both ends ‍

I wonder if I should lower the hydras a little more

 

[Reefer Matt Verified Media Partner]

Thank you, I suspect my lights have been too strong at the top . A week ago I got the par meter and found the high point was 500+ par (where the poor Walt has been struggling) so I turned the lights way down to 350 at top.

What made me think that was I got a few decent frags from a local store but put them lower so the nice 1s stay up top but the low frags have been happy and encrusting way better.

All I hear is high light and high flow, I think I went too extreme (high) on both ends ‍

I wonder if I should lower the hydras a little more

You're welcome. In my opinion light and flow go together. If you have very high par, you need very high flow. But high par (above 150-200) isn't required to keep sps alive, imo, but to get peak coloration. If flow isn't matching par (hard to gauge, I know) then par should be adjusted down. It may take a few months for certain acros like the WD to color back up. Your parameters look good, so I suggest trying to keep them there, and only change one thing at a time.

 

[Unstoppable algae!]

Having elevated ph will help growth big time! Once my newer tank gets some more corals I'm going to follow the way Chris meckley, from aci, does his setups. Mostly going after ph using kalk and, I believe, keeping the rest of the levels at seawater using a Calc reactor.

I have been super close to doing that! Instead I dose Kalk at night only but to my desired alk goal. I wish I would have gotten the Milwaukee probe with a low set point I would totally have started (I have no controller for programming) I have the brs doser but think it drips slow, it basically drips all night with 15 min stop points for overheating and my ph still dips night & morning. Hoping lifting the overflow drain helps with PH

 

[YOYOYOReefer]

If you have leds your mq200 was not designed for them. I bet you are hitting the corals with more par than you think
Just a rough guess but add about 20 percent to your par numbers it’s displaying I have a 510 and a 200 here and xr30s On my frag tank I just compared both and the 510was 20-25 percent lower tHan the 200s readings on the led tank .

They both read the same my other tank next to it with halides

 

[Sunreefer]

Thank you, I suspect my lights have been too strong at the top . A week ago I got the par meter and found the high point was 500+ par (where the poor Walt has been struggling) so I turned the lights way down to 350 at top.

What made me think that was I got a few decent frags from a local store but put them lower so the nice 1s stay up top but the low frags have been happy and encrusting way better.

All I hear is high light and high flow, I think I went too extreme (high) on both ends ‍

I wonder if I should lower the hydras a little more

Just a few suggestions

your major numbers look good. yes, ICP test is the way to go to see what if any imbalances.

some things for you to consider...

1. I would suggest to lower your frags at lower level or lower your intensity. if its bleaching. better to have the frags brown and then to color them back up. once it bleaches its a longer process.

2. This stuff seems like a lot. (Feeding Roids fauna Marin lps oyster feast & kz coral vitalizer. Bacto balance. Flakes algae strips and pellets.) I would go back to the basics of water change and not adding all that stuff into the tank - motley crew of stuff)

3. In case of emergency or serious imbalance you could look at witch hazel treatment or cipro if you feel like its bacteria related.

4. If its bug related, you can dip your corals and also check for bite marks on your acros.

5. yes, your ph is also on the low-end is on the lower side. noting like fresh air and kalk magic juice~~

hope this helps

 

[Unstoppable algae!]

If you have leds your mq200 was not designed for them. I bet you are hitting the corals with more par than you think
Just a rough guess but add about 20 percent to your par numbers it’s displaying I have a 510 and a 200 here and xr30s On my frag tank I just compared both and the 510was 20-25 percent lower tHan the 200s readings on the led tank .

They both read the same my other tank next to it with halides

Oh no! I think I read that now that you mention… it was probably 700 par.. I think I have been overnighting the sps at the top and maybe par is less 1/2 way down, low always thrive. My digi was growing good on the gravel before moving it up. I tuned my hydras down today . Thank you!

 

[Unstoppable algae!]

1. I would suggest to lower your frags at lower level or lower your intensity. if it’s bleaching. better to have the frags brown and then to color them back up. once it bleaches it’s a longer process.

2. This stuff seems like a lot. (Feeding Roids fauna Marin lps oyster feast & kz coral vitalizer. Bacto balance. Flakes algae strips and pellets.) I would go back to the basics of water change and not adding all that stuff into the tank - motley crew of stuff)

Just a few suggestions

your major numbers look good. yes, ICP test is the way to go to see what if any imbalances.

some things for you to consider...

1. I would suggest to lower your frags at lower level or lower your intensity. if its bleaching. better to have the frags brown and then to color them back up. once it bleaches its a longer process.

2. This stuff seems like a lot. (Feeding Roids fauna Marin lps oyster feast & kz coral vitalizer. Bacto balance. Flakes algae strips and pellets.) I would go back to the basics of water change and not adding all that stuff into the tank - motley crew of stuff)

3. In case of emergency or serious imbalance you could look at witch hazel treatment or cipro if you feel like its bacteria related.

4. If its bug related, you can dip your corals and also check for bite marks on your acros.

5. yes, your ph is also on the low-end is on the lower side. noting like fresh air and kalk magic juice~~

hope this helps

You’re not going to like this but I also dose amino acids thank you for the advice.

Question, I dose a lot to keep P04 up. If I neglect it will go to 0. I have brightwell N03 & P04. Should I maintain nutrients more that way or with reef roids? I just want phosphate above .03
I can stop np bacto balance as I just started. I recently re started carbon dosing after doing what you said, I held off dosing a lot of stuff to look for a difference.

I lowered my lighting today, I really think it was bad high hot spots on my upper rock work that has been doing the most damage. I think this will help most, I can actually look and where the hydra’s hit & polyps are more in and color is different and skin is thin with maybe a bare spot starting.
Thank you again!

 

[dadnjesse]

Oh no! I think I read that now that you mention… it was probably 700 par.. I think I have been overnighting the sps at the top and maybe par is less 1/2 way down, low always thrive. My digi was growing good on the gravel before moving it up. I tuned my hydras down today . Thank you!

How big is your tank? I'm doughtful your getting 700 par from those lights. And if the corals were getting burnt they would be white at the top.

 

[Unstoppable algae!]

How big is your tank? I'm doughtful your getting 700 par from those lights. And if the corals were getting burnt they would be white at the top.

Tank is 65 gallons. 2 hydra 26hd they were all blues to 100% .. white at 30% red 5 green 25 % for 5 hr, 12 hr all together. Have 36” & 24” orphek blue running 11 & 10 hours.

I was trying for “blanket” coverage. My apogee mq200 reads 440 at the tip of the sps rock, right center of tank.

 

[Sunreefer]

You’re not going to like this but I also dose amino acids thank you for the advice.

Question, I dose a lot to keep P04 up. If I neglect it will go to 0. I have brightwell N03 & P04. Should I maintain nutrients more that way or with reef roids? I just want phosphate above .03
I can stop np bacto balance as I just started. I recently re started carbon dosing after doing what you said, I held off dosing a lot of stuff to look for a difference.

I lowered my lighting today, I really think it was bad high hot spots on my upper rock work that has been doing the most damage. I think this will help most, I can actually look and where the hydra’s hit & polyps are more in and color is different and skin is thin with maybe a bare spot starting.
Thank you again!

Yeah, I would dose neophos and neonitro to keep your n&p if needed. And I would get rid all that other stuff... everything except n&p, fish poop and water changes to flush out whatever bad bacteria you may have in there. You could add biodigest (the bomb) to reboot the good bacteria in your tank.

You can always go back to all that stuff you were adding to the tank once things stablize. To identify what works for you. No carbon dosing either get a triton n-doc icp to see that side before adding.

Flow, lighting, water change and religious testing of water (till things stablize) making sure numbers are stable.

Abe - coral euphoria. Watched his videos like 10-15 times literally and whenever I start to veer off and want to play mad scientist.

Moonshiners method also works. They have a fb group you can join. Just be aware there are some pompous arrogant advanced reefers there, but a few of them are super nice and helpful.

Just some humble suggestions ~~~

 

[vetteguy53081]

My best success with SPS has evolved from doing 2 gal water changes daily. While not a method for everyone, it has worked for me successfully

 

[KTTX]

Thanks! I'm here to help and learn like everyone else. How old is your tank? I suggest lower par for new coral. I like to keep my tank from 100 par on the bottom to around 250-300 up top. I put the lights on acclimation mode for 2 weeks if adding new frags. And yes, Walt Disney acro is a super slow grower, but worth it, imo.

Are you getting good SPS color with par max at 300?

 

[Reefer Matt Verified Media Partner]

Are you getting good SPS color with par max at 300?

Yes. In my tank the coral will start to bleach any higher than that. But I could always increase flow as well. That's the most current full pic of the sps tank up top. The Kessils are only at 20% with the Reef Brites on at peak. I used to have only the Kessils, and they were at 55% before as pictured on bottom.