Getting by with sub-optimal

[chadfish]

For my 40g breeder I have a Beamswork Quad 30 with the following specs

• Lumen: 5500
• LEDs: 40x 3 watt
• Config: 30x 10000K, 10x Actinic 460nm
• 2 Modes: All on or 2 rows
• Suitable for marine coral reef, cichlid setups

I also have an Orbit 30” for ramping up/down and moonlight.

My questions are:
While not optimal, is this sufficient?
Will I get LPS & SPS growth?
Is it worth $400 for an upgrade to modern LED? Will the benefit outweigh the cost?

Thanks in advance

 

[hhaase]

Without actually measuring PAR or knowing any of the stats for the LED's or drivers on the Beamswork, it's hard to say for sure. I did find a blurb on AliBaba that says the Beamswork lights use a 35w power supply, which tells me it's really not pushing the LED's very hard at all. The other concern I'd have is that only 10 of the LED's are really in the proper wavelength to generate PAR

Are you saying that you have this AND the 30" orbit fixture? Any info on what that one is? The combination may be enough for some moderate light corals.

 

[chadfish]

Without actually measuring PAR or knowing any of the stats for the LED's or drivers on the Beamswork, it's hard to say for sure. I did find a blurb on AliBaba that says the Beamswork lights use a 35w power supply, which tells me it's really not pushing the LED's very hard at all. The other concern I'd have is that only 10 of the LED's are really in the proper wavelength to generate PAR

Are you saying that you have this AND the 30" orbit fixture? Any info on what that one is? The combination may be enough for some moderate light corals.

Thanks for helping me with this.

You won’t find this light anywhere. (I’ve checked - it was on the Aussie Amazon once, but now it’s gone) This draws 120W power from the wall with 30 blinding 3W 10k LEDs and 10 3W 460nm “actinic” . It’s friggin bright!! I don’t keep the whites on for too long because it sits directly on top of the acrylic tank.
Here are the white LEDs - no lens??

 

[hhaase]

Looking at some of your other posts, are you connected to a local club? Any chance somebody there might have a PAR meter to borrow? Nothing beats actual measurements for sure to answer these kinds of questions.

Is it really pulling 150w from the wall, like checked with a kill-a-watt to confirm it? If it's really pulling 150w, then it's pushing all the LED's to their maximum, and blue LED's reallllly don't like that. It cuts down on their lifespan considerably.

 

[chadfish]

Looking at some of your other posts, are you connected to a local club? Any chance somebody there might have a PAR meter to borrow?

Yes, I’m in the wait list

Nothing beats actual measurements for sure to answer these kinds of questions.

Is it really pulling 150w from the wall, like checked with a kill-a-watt to confirm it?

Yes, I measure that outlet at the breaker. Here’s a plot of it turning on this morning. I don’t have an isolated measurement, the tank pumps and heaters are also on.

If it's really pulling 150w, then it's pushing all the LED's to their maximum, and blue LED's reallllly don't like that. It cuts down on their lifespan considerably.

I’m not so concerned with that, more interested in how appropriate this is in terms of spectrum and intensity. Not forgetting that the Orbit adds about 30 par to the bottom of the tank.

Thanks again

 

[hhaase]

I think you're on the right path waiting for the PAR meter, and if you know you're getting 30 PAR from the Orbits alone on the bottom of the tank, things may not be too bad. I think you can probably consider the two fixtures to be somewhat equivalent.

I doubt you'll be able to raise high-light acro's and things of that nature. But pretty much all the LPS and many of the less light hungry SPS shouldn't be a problem. I'd wait though until you have a PAR reading before risking SPS other than say montipora and light level equivalents.

Spectrum on the Beamswork is really limited but supplemented with the Orbit gives you the missing range.

 

[oreo54]

Yes, I’m in the wait list

Yes, I measure that outlet at the breaker. Here’s a plot of it turning on this morning. I don’t have an isolated measurement, the tank pumps and heaters are also on.

I’m not so concerned with that, more interested in how appropriate this is in terms of spectrum and intensity. Not forgetting that the Orbit adds about 30 par to the bottom of the tank.

Thanks again

They are cheaply able to be dimmed or " programmed" w/ some work or direct from beamswork if you have the port.
Since this is a constant voltage array wall watts include resistor losses.
Power supply is usually 15v to match.
Biggest "issue" is lack of err colors below yellow and of course a one wavlengths peak blue.
Could get into par vs pur here but prob not the most important issue.

Next issue... Jeep the lenses or not.
If you keep the 90' s on suggest raising it higher than standard.

 

[chadfish]

That’s great information. I’m now not so anxious to upgrade to the Reefbreeder 32 V2+. I mean I’ll probably do that at some point, but sounds like I can slow-roll it and put my funds to use somewhere else for now.

 

[chadfish]

You'll find the par sufficient if not excessive for a 40 b.

Yeah, I think it was mostly responsible for bleaching a Green Trumpet polyp that was mid-upper tank. Moved to the sand bed and now growing out a bit.

Old dual row 3 w can push 140 par at 17"
Add another set to that.

They are cheaply able to be dimmed or " programmed" w/ some work or direct from beamswork if you have the port.

This is interesting. I have a brand new on/off 2 channel controller. The blue channel won’t turn off independently though- it broke internally long ago before I owned it. But you’re saying I can hack it to dim?! Hmmm. I’ll ask my EE buddy to look at it.

Since this is a constant voltage array wall watts include resistor losses.
Power supply is usually 15v to match.
Biggest "issue" is lack of err colors below yellow and of course a one wavlengths peak blue.
Could get into par vs pur here but prob not the most important issue.

Next issue... Jeep the lenses or not.
If you keep the 90' s on suggest raising it higher than standard.

 

[chadfish]

Next issue... Jeep the lenses or not.
If you keep the 90' s on suggest raising it higher than standard.

So those are 90 deg lenses on the LEDs? Good to know. Thanks!

 

[oreo54]

It will be interesting to get the par measurements. Nobody seems to have done them for years.
Btw if you like soldering they are easily " customizable" to make up for their err defects.

Beamswork LED mod - Reef Central Online Community

Beamswork LED mod Do It Yourself

www.reefcentral.com

 

[oreo54]

So those are 90 deg lenses on the LEDs? Good to know. Thanks!

Btw they have a new controller that's more than on off

 

[oreo54]

MAJOR OPPS.. The statement regarding par was wrong. The 130 PAr @ 17" was for dual 2 row lights soo a "quad"..

Apologies for that..Removed the error.
So no 200 par at the substrate more like 130 plus your 30 for the orbit.

 

[hhaase]

MAJOR OPPS.. The statement regarding par was wrong. The 130 PAr @ 17" was for dual 2 row lights soo a "quad"..

Apologies for that..Removed the error.
So no 200 par at the substrate more like 130 plus your 30 for the orbit.

Still, that's a lot of PAR on the substrate. You're right, almost too much. Will be fun to see the numbers.

Makes me more hopeful for the number on my own Frankenstein lights when my meter arrives.

 

[chadfish]

MAJOR OPPS.. The statement regarding par was wrong. The 130 PAr @ 17" was for dual 2 row lights soo a "quad"..

Apologies for that..Removed the error.
So no 200 par at the substrate more like 130 plus your 30 for the orbit.

Yeah, I can't imagine intensity being the issue. It's ******* bright. Like, I'm still seeing spots after I accidentally looked at it last month... It's really a question of wavelength I think. How are the 10K LEDs, and when paired with the 460nm, am I giving the LPS/SPS 80% of their requirements? Is it worth "upgrading" to a multi-channel (multi-hundred $) new LED? Will I see "amazing" growth? Or will I just see "super radical" color "pop" (which is fine too).

 

[chadfish]

Btw they have a new controller that's more than on off

Not sure these LEDs are dimmable. The OP from the Reefcentral thread seemed to confirm that too

 

[oreo54]

Not sure these LEDs are dimmable. The OP from the Reefcentral thread seemed to confirm that too

Never met a Beamswork I couldn't dim. The higher Watt ones ie .72" or some of the larger quads are tricky but not impossible.

What does your power supply say ?

• Timer and Dimmer function
• Compatible with Beamswork EA and DA models, Green Element EVO and EVO Quad models

If you were referring to my link from 2014.. well let's just day... 2014..

 

[oreo54]

OK I was getting a bit cocky regarding these.. I had assumed a TC-420(421) could provide global dimming (no channels just the whole light head.. BUT an estimate about the timer/dimmer leads me to believe one needs one capable of handling about 8A

This should have that rating..

LED Timer Module Add On
This add on dimmer and timer module will allow you to program the on and off times for Mode 1 and Mode 2. User can set the intensity for each mode in increments of 10%. Timer module can also power on and off manually.
Only works with pre-wired Beamswork, Green Element, and Odyssea fixtures.
NOT compatible with Beamswork ET series fixtures.
This listing is for 1 timer module. Certain fixtures may require two timer modules.
Features:

• Dimensions - 3.75" x 1.65" x 1.25"
• Power cord - 15.00"
• Only works with pre-wired Beamswork and Green Element LED fixtures.
• 110V - 220V

Any "aftermarket in line dimmer/programmers" (between power supply and light head) need to have the 8A spec.. Some do, most don't.
Manual one that works.. You can eiher cut and strip or find matching plugs..
https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/single-color-dimmer-switches/ldk-8a-12-24-volt-dc-single-color-led-dimmer/62/365/?utm_campaign=Child+-+Organic+Shopping&utm_source=More+LED+Lighting+>+Single+Color+LED+Dimmer+Switches&utm_medium=LDK-8A&gclid=Cj0KCQjwo-aCBhC-ARIsAAkNQitQeMsfU5SrBbfVJusyENDAzdNZRRLvz50Y9iiJuM31OdudfqgFVAkaApEaEALw_wcB

Power supply needs to be any voltage between 12-24V (think you can go down to 9 but not important) and 8A max current on full.
192W

 

[chadfish]

OK I was getting a bit cocky regarding these.. I had assumed a TC-420(421) could provide global dimming (no channels just the whole light head.. BUT an estimate about the timer/dimmer leads me to believe one needs one capable of handling about 8A

This should have that rating..


Any "aftermarket in line dimmer/programmers" (between power supply and light head) need to have the 8A spec.. Some do, most don't.
Manual one that works.. You can eiher cut and strip or find matching plugs..
https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/single-color-dimmer-switches/ldk-8a-12-24-volt-dc-single-color-led-dimmer/62/365/?utm_campaign=Child+-+Organic+Shopping&utm_source=More+LED+Lighting+>+Single+Color+LED+Dimmer+Switches&utm_medium=LDK-8A&gclid=Cj0KCQjwo-aCBhC-ARIsAAkNQitQeMsfU5SrBbfVJusyENDAzdNZRRLvz50Y9iiJuM31OdudfqgFVAkaApEaEALw_wcB

Power supply needs to be any voltage between 12-24V (think you can go down to 9 but not important) and 8A max current on full.
192W

Here’s my PS and controller connector. The power cable from the PS to the unit is hard wired and is just 2 wires, but it looks like the housing has cutouts to support other functions. p.s. this thing is old...

 

[chadfish]

OK I was getting a bit cocky regarding these.. I had assumed a TC-420(421) could provide global dimming (no channels just the whole light head.. BUT an estimate about the timer/dimmer leads me to believe one needs one capable of handling about 8A

This should have that rating..


Any "aftermarket in line dimmer/programmers" (between power supply and light head) need to have the 8A spec.. Some do, most don't.
Manual one that works.. You can eiher cut and strip or find matching plugs..
https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/single-color-dimmer-switches/ldk-8a-12-24-volt-dc-single-color-led-dimmer/62/365/?utm_campaign=Child+-+Organic+Shopping&utm_source=More+LED+Lighting+>+Single+Color+LED+Dimmer+Switches&utm_medium=LDK-8A&gclid=Cj0KCQjwo-aCBhC-ARIsAAkNQitQeMsfU5SrBbfVJusyENDAzdNZRRLvz50Y9iiJuM31OdudfqgFVAkaApEaEALw_wcB

Power supply needs to be any voltage between 12-24V (think you can go down to 9 but not important) and 8A max current on full.
192W

Sorry posted the AC side lol. The DC side says 24V, 8A