GFO+Carbon question

Sdoutreefer

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Currently I am running GFO and only GFO in a reactor. I don't run carbon but am told this is something I should be doing. So, this might be a silly question, but to those of you who run GFO and Carbon... what is your setup? I might be confused but is running the two in the same reactor the way it should be done? Also, what GFO and what carbon are the best ones out there?
 
The better question is, why do you want to run carbon? Just because somebody said you should? My 350g system has been running for 4 years and I don't run GFO or carbon. The 180g DT in the system has lots of fish and is almost full with big colonies of sps & lps corals. GFO removes some phosphates, so run GFO if you have a problem. And again, the better question is, why do you have a phosphate issue? Running carbon can make the water a bit more clear (unless you have starfire glass or acrylic the tank itself isn't really clear) and it removes some toxins (assuming you have some). So back to the original question, why do YOU want to run carbon?

This is a 4 year old tank run without GFO, without carbon and with a 25g water change (7% of the total) every 4-8 weeks:

 
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Carbon dosig helps reducing nitrates. Only use it if you have issues with it. Running it and GFO tends to a ultra low nutrient system and corals may suffer with that. I find them usefull for sps dominated tanks only.
And running gfo and carbon (pellets) in the same reactor sounds strange to me. GFO saturates much faster than pellets. And you need to change it more frequently. Besides that, bacterial growth needs phosphorus and running a GFO may limit it interfering with the carbon source efficiency.
 
Carbon is not carbon dosing. Many reefers will argue the fact that carbon is great and others say it strips out some important nutrients.One word of advice if you run carbon you want slow flow through it. I have used it for years with no ill effects.
 
Ron, what kind of a setup are you running?

I have 180g mixed reef, a 70 anemone tank and a 120g sump/refugium/DSB. I run a good skimmer, a couple of filter socks, a 40g fuge with cheato and a 40g DSB with 8" of sand. That's it in a nutshell. I have lots of VERY random water movement in the tanks. The sump return sprays out of 2 long 'spray bars' from behind the rocks (a common dead zone) and is split by a SCWD for alternating current. I have a closed loop with an OceanMotion and 3 revolution heads for more random water movement. I have a few WP25's on timers to simulate the tides. And 95% of my rocks sit up off the sand by about 1" to 2" so almost all the sand is available for critters who need it and it allows for better flow and cleaner sand (again, no dead spots). I run leds (OceanRevive OR-IT2080's) on an 8 hour sunrise, 1 hour midday and 8 hour sunset program. I run a Reefdoser.com dosing pump that doses 24/7 at a drip every 10-15 seconds. I use Dowflake for calcium, pool soda ash for alk and a mix of Mag Flake and epsom salts for mag. I use Rand Holmes Farley's recipe for mixing and dose 300ml of calcium and alk every day. And I feed a very wide variety of foods, from nori I buy in bulk from California to frozen, flakes, pellets, granular, freeze dries, bottled and fresh (I live where I can catch live shrimp). Is that what you were asking for?





 
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Lol and more! Thanks Ron! That's an extensive setup. I'm in the process of setting up a 125 with a 55 for a sump. I planned on having a good size fuge with a DSB, chaeto and some mangroves. Thought about putting LR in the fuge, but have heard it's a bad idea due to detritus build up. Also, thought about running a media reactor withn GFO and carbon until I read this thread. That's why I was interested in what your setup was as far as filtration. Your tank looks awesome and looks like you've got it down to a science. Curious though, how do you get most of your live rock off your sand bed?
 
The better question is, why do you want to run carbon? Just because somebody said you should? My 350g system has been running for 4 years and I don't run GFO or carbon. The 180g DT in the system has lots of fish and is almost full with big colonies of sps & lps corals. GFO removes some phosphates, so run GFO if you have a problem. And again, the better question is, why do you have a phosphate issue? Running carbon can make the water a bit more clear (unless you have starfire glass or acrylic the tank itself isn't really clear) and it removes some toxins (assuming you have some). So back to the original question, why do YOU want to run carbon?

This is a 4 year old tank run without GFO, without carbon and with a 25g water change (7% of the total) every 4-8 weeks:


The reason I want to run carbon is for my water to be more "wet". It is something I did on my old tank. It was a 12g nano cube. I honestly had no clue that so much goes into running Carbon and what it can do to a system. Most systems I come across seem to be running some sort of Carbon. I also have been told that it is usually smart to run carbon while running GFO.
 
Wow killer setup, following cause im interested in the facts on carbon and gfo as well have the ability to run it on my system but have held off cause it didn't feel necessary.
 
Hello everyone, since we are one the topic of GFO and Carbon, I was wondering, is it necessary to remove GFO from my tank while dosing medication? I know removing the carbon is a must but not sure about the GFO, specifically Fluval Clearmax. Thanks
 
I set up a carbon reactor recently running BRS Rox. Within 24hrs the water clarity was amazing. My lights seemed brighter and I'm seeing detail in my tank I've never seen before. I look down in my fuge and the water looks like liquid glass -- that's the only way I can describe it. I also run a GFO reactor which knocked my phosphates down to zero (at least below what I am able to detect) in very short order. So far I'm happy with both the GFO and the carbon and I have yet to detect any ill effects.
 
I set up a carbon reactor recently running BRS Rox. Within 24hrs the water clarity was amazing. My lights seemed brighter and I'm seeing detail in my tank I've never seen before. I look down in my fuge and the water looks like liquid glass -- that's the only way I can describe it. I also run a GFO reactor which knocked my phosphates down to zero (at least below what I am able to detect) in very short order. So far I'm happy with both the GFO and the carbon and I have yet to detect any ill effects.

that why i use GFO + CARBON. as i have lil high PO4 and want my water lil clear..
 
I set up a carbon reactor recently running BRS Rox. Within 24hrs the water clarity was amazing. My lights seemed brighter and I'm seeing detail in my tank I've never seen before. I look down in my fuge and the water looks like liquid glass -- that's the only way I can describe it. I also run a GFO reactor which knocked my phosphates down to zero (at least below what I am able to detect) in very short order. So far I'm happy with both the GFO and the carbon and I have yet to detect any ill effects.

I guess if you think having water that clear is good for your system, have at it. I understand people running GFO if they have phosphate issues. But my question is, why do you have phosphate issues? My nitrate levels have been zero for so long I can't remember... well, OK, for 3+ years. And I only harvest cheato about once every 6 months as it grows so slow. After months of no phosphates and no algae, I've quite testing nitrates and phosphates altogether. I test alk, cal, mag and SG so I know my dosing is working properly, that's it.
 
I guess if you think having water that clear is good for your system, have at it. I understand people running GFO if they have phosphate issues. But my question is, why do you have phosphate issues? My nitrate levels have been zero for so long I can't remember... well, OK, for 3+ years. And I only harvest cheato about once every 6 months as it grows so slow. After months of no phosphates and no algae, I've quite testing nitrates and phosphates altogether. I test alk, cal, mag and SG so I know my dosing is working properly, that's it.
I hope this super clear water doesn't crash my system! Your tank must be perfect. How do you achieve this perfection? How do you achieve zero phosphates and zero nitrates to the point you've stopped testing for them? That is the real question -- not whether some wants to run carbon.
 
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I hope this super clear water doesn't crash my system! Your tank must be perfect. How do you achieve this perfection? How do you achieve zero phosphates and zero nitrates to the point you've stopped testing for them? That is the real question -- not whether some wants to run carbon.

I'd like to know as how you have the most pristine water quality as well! I'll pay big money if you come remove every phosphate and nitrate from my system.

PCygni-
I know what you mean when you say "liquid glass". I had an old tank running CPE and it literally looked like a box of liquid glass. There was absolutely nothing in the water. I am trying to achieve that in my tank I have running now... that's kind of the point of this thread. And to see if I need to be running some sort of carbon.
 
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Sorry guys, I got a bit busy with life (Christmas and all) and building a new 65g frag tank with a 120g sump/refugium/DSB. LOL

Sdoutreefer, your original post asked if you should be running carbon, not will carbon make my water more clear. The answer is yes it probably will make your water more clear. My follow up question is, is that good for your corals and fish or just for your eyes?

A couple of you ask about perfect water... my water isn't perfect, but it's low maintenance and easy. I have a 180g mixed reef and a 70g anemone tank, so 250g of display water that share a 150g or more sump/refugium/DSB. The 180g tanks has about a 2-3" sand bed and lots of live rock which is almost all off the sand. The refugium is 2' x 2' x 16" (about 45g) and is full, sometimes very full of cheato. I also have a bit of gracilaria algae growing in the anemone tank. Next to the fuge is a 2' x 2' x 8" DSB with 6" of water flowing over it and some coral and anemones as well. The sump is a 2' x 2' with a submerged pump and a 2nd 2' x 2' section with an AquaMedic Turbo 5000 Shorty that is gravity fed from the 180g DT. I have a total of 3 drain lines. I use filter socks on the 2 from the 180g and none on the 70g return. I do 25g water changes about every 4-8 weeks.

I feed a very wide variety of foods to a wide variety of fish, crabs, snails, serpent stars, sea cucumber, 1 banded coral shrimp and 30 large to very large coral colonies. I feed frozen, gel, freeze dried, liquid, grannuals, flakes, powder and cut up fresh stock. I also do 2 sheets of 4" x 4" nori. I feed that every other day on average. Sometimes I'll do 2 or 3 days in a row but I reduce the amount on the 2nd and 3rd days. But sometimes I won't feed for 2 days and on rare occasions I've even gone 3 days. Over feeding is one of the biggest pollutants in our tanks.

I dose calcium and soda ash 24/7 with a medical grade dosing pump at the rate of 300ml of the BRS recommended levels. BTW, I use Dowflake for calcium (50lb bag for $28) and soda ash from a pool supply. I dose mag manually and use Mag Flake and epson salts bought in bulk from a California supplier. My parameters run like this:
temp 78-80F, SG 1.025-27, cal 420-440, alk 7-9dKH, mag 1400-1500, ammonia 0, nitrite 0, nitrate 0, phosphate 0.0-0.2. I seriously never test for ammonia, nitrite or nitrate unless something big goes missing in the tank. I only test for phosphate if I see any algae in the tank (the last time was 2+ years ago).

I also have lots and lots of water movement. My sump return is split in 2 by a SCWD and is delivered to the tank by 2 'spraybars' that run down the back of the tank behind the rock wall. I have a Closed Loop with an Ocean Motion 4 way and 3 Revolution heads which really randomizes the flow. And I have 2 Jebao WP25 wave makers running on 2 timers. They run 8 hours each with a 2 hour overlap... think tides in the ocean. And with my LR up off the sand I get good flow even at the sand. I have never had cayno in the 180 and only once in the anemone tank, so I added a WP25 in there as well.

I credit my luck (I don't think of it as success) to the raised LR and extra good random water flow. It's got good volume (about 30-35 turns per hour), but it's got lots of outlets and is super random which keeps stuff in suspension better than most people's tanks I see. Then there is a lot of LR (probably 225-250lbs), a big refugium, a big DSB, and a good skimmer. My water may not be crystal clear, but it's way more natural than most, fairly easy to take care of and very inexpensive to run. No carbon, no GFO, no vodka dosing (or any other carbon source), no bi-pellet reactor, just as much Mother Nature as I could fit in along with some uncommon build ideas. It's a bit over 4 years old now and I need to frag corals badly. Some are running into the front glass and there are more and more coral wars starting up all the time. That's why I'm building a 65g frag tank and a 120g sump system.
 
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