GFO not doing it's job!

woodzy128

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My phosphate levels are climbing a point a day (ppm). Just did a water change and changed GFO sunday. PPM were .04 today they were .10 I dont get it Im not over feeding I only have two clowns and a bunch of frags in a 47 bow front with a 60 gallon sump with 21 gallon fuge in the sump. where are these phosphates coming from? I run a dual Brs reactor with GFO and carbon and a omega vertex 130 skimmer. I only feed once a day about 1/4 cube of missis. Do I need to change media or add a phosban reactor?
 
how old is your test kit? how long is the tank been up and running? what kind of macros are u growing in your fuge, and how often u harvesting it? sorry for all the questions just trying to narrow stuff down
 
hanna checker is brand new. I had some red teardrop macro that the cayno got rid of for me. I also have some cheato thats not doing well. the cayno in my fuge is out of control and killing everything in the fuge. The tank has been running for almost 5 months.
 
Test the ro/di. Are you holding the button down until the 3min timer? Scrub all the algea from everything(toothbrushes do wonders) and vacuum tank, then do a large water change.

I've stopped running gfo. I regularly clean, do water changes, and vodka dose.
 
yes i'm holding the button until the timer starts. I'm doing a water change today. How much vodka do you dose?
 
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You really need to read up on vodka dosing before you start and make sure you have a good protein skimmer. Post a full tank photo so we can see what it looks like
 
Display tank is a 47 bow front and sump is 75 that has 60 gallons in it. My fuge in the sump is 21 gallons and I'm running a vertex omega 130 skimmer and dual brs reactor with gfo and carbon. 5 1/2 deep sand bed in the fuge and total about 60 lbs of dry rock.
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This may help you get a better understanding of how GFO works:

LowersMyBP said:
GFO:
Think about it like using duct tape to clean the lint off your pants. The lint sticks to the tape. Once every inch of the tape has lint sticking to it, no more lint sticks. GFO/Carbon works in a very similar way. Carbon has organics and particles stick to it, GFO picks up phosphates.

Why be careful with GFO? Any change in a reef tank that is fast, good or bad, can be devastating to corals. Why would one run GFO only a few hours a day? Because one figures that if his phosphates are high, running it for a few hours a day will only lower it so much and it will not be a shock to the system.

If you use 'less than the recommended amount' but keep the pump on 24/7, well, all you have done is run water through it until it cannot absorb any more phosphates. You haven't really bought yourself anything here as far as the speed of the phosphate decrease, you have just limited how far it will go down. If you put enough in the reactor to absorb every last phosphate in the tank running the pump 24/7 for the next 3 days and then the GFO will be used up, great. However, if you don't replace the GFO for 4 weeks, well then that is 25 days that the phosphates have to build up before you replace the GFO. Then, you put in the full amount and it starts all over, drops it to zero over a few days and then keeps it there slightly longer than the last time. You essentially put your tank on a yo yo where the route down to zero phosphates is fast and the route back up to higher phosphates is slow.

What to do? My advice is that when you start GFO, use the recommended amount, but only run it for a few hours a day, that way, your phosphates don't lower too fast. After a week, maybe you can change to 24/7. Some people complain about 'clogging' of the reactor, to which I say, switch to using half the recommended amount, but change it twice as often. Personally, I run a little more than half the recommended amount, I run it 4 hours in the morning and 4 hours in the evening and I replace it every 2 weeks religiously now.

Starting with less than the recommended amount could work if you intend to step it down, but it is harder to keep up with I think. You'd have to do something like 3 Tablespoons over 3 days and that lowers it from .70 to .60 and then is exhausted. Now, I will go with 4 tablespoons over 4 days and that lowers it from .60 to .45 so on and so forth. Then, if you forget to change it out after a few days, they start to go back up. For me, it is easier to put the reactor on a timer and just control how much water is going through the GFO. Up to the person, I guess. You for sure can't use half the recommended amount but still wait 4-6 weeks to change it out, that will absolutely not help ease into it, in my estimation.

The GFO is doing its job, you just have more phosphate that it can hold in a single batch. Be careful with using to much though, or you will shock your corals.

Also, it may be leeching from your rocks. My Reefsaver did that as well for some time after setup. I like the rock, but will acid wash in the future.
 
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Like it was stated multiple times. Check your source water for p04 traces. If your rodi is leaching p04 after it's been treated your cartridges, specifically your DI, needs to be change. Could be test kit error also.
 
If you started the tank using only dry rock, not live rock, there is a good chance the rocks are leaching phosphates. It will take some time to eliminate it all. Just keep up with routine maintenance and be patient.
 
@woodzy123 You know I had the same issues and I could not get my Phosphates under 0.06ppm! I was running a BRS Dual Reactor with ROX Carbon on one side and the other side I was running High Capacity BRS GFO, doing 10-gallon water changes every week, and feeding 1 cube of PE Mysis per day and I could not for the life of me get my p04 under 0.06ppm.

So I changed things up a little bit, instead of doing 10-gallon water change I am doing a 15-gallon water change PER wk and Instead of PE mysis - I am using Elos sv. M2 Marine Fish Food - Medium. It's release ZERO phosphates in the tank, best food on the market even for your picky eaters. Also, instead of using BRS HC GFO, I switched over to a new brand called PO4X4 Phosphate remover and they sell it @ BRS FYI. It's 4 times the amount of phosphate than standard GFO and it works amazing! AS FAR AS MY FOOD, Inside the Elos food container, there is a tiny TINY spoon. I only feed my fish two spoons full and I just drop it inside of my Innovative Marnie Gourmet Defroster, so the pellets don't go down the Overflow boxes & I am good to go. I have around 15 fish in my 120. Also, I ditched the BRS dual reactor and got me a REAL reactor! I bought the Vertex 1.5L & I absolutely love it and works way better than the BRS DUAL... If I were you I would get some Maricle mud and some Mangroves and some Cheato for your refuge If you have enough of these it will only help out and handle the production load of your the nitrate and phosphate levels.

After about a week, I Re-tested my phosphates and I tested the phosphates coming out of the reactor and it was reading 0.04 on my Hanna Checker Ultra Low. I would not trust any other po4 KIT on the market but Hanna Checker. The only other test kit I use Is the Elos for my Magnesium, Nitrites, and Nitrate which is always spot on. Alk & Cal all get tested with a Hanna checkers. After my 2nd water change which is currently where I am at, my phosphates is testing out to 0.02ppm finally! Hope this help and I wish you all the very best Phosphates can be a real pain in the $#$#$#$#...

This is what my tanks look's like:


TANK INFO:
120 display
Ecotech M1 pump
Apex Classic
Apex ALD Module w/ 2 Leak Detector probes
Apex PM2 Module w/ Salinity probe
BreakOut box
Skimz 163 DC Montzer Series skimmer
Custom sump / Refuge
2 TUNZE Turbella 6055 Pumps
2 AI Hydra TwentySix HD LED Fixtures
Celestial C35W Maxspect Refuge Spotlight
Aqua UV Ultraviolet Sterilizer 25w
BRS Dual Media reactor
Eshoops IV Master & Slave Doser
Tunze 3155 Auto Top Off
BRS Peri Pump 50mls/pm
Avast Kalk Reactor
Vertex 1.5L Media Reactor

Fish:
1 Blue Caribbean Tang
2 Blue/Green Reef Chromis
1 - Flame Angelfish
1 - Kamohara Blenny
3- Kaudern's Cardinal
3 - Lyretail Anthias
1 - Ocellaris Clownfish
1 - Powder Blue Tang
1 - Purple Stripe Dottyback
2 - Spotted Cardinalfish
1 - Yellow Tang
2 Yellowtail Damselfish


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