GFO vs High Capacity GFO vs Phosguard vs Phosban

Ubergroover

Engineer by day, Musician/golfer/reefer by night
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Hello all,
I have been using phosguard, but I am not happy with its performance. What media is longest lasting and has best absorption? I am ready to buy my next batch of media and want to switch. My po3/4 levels never dip below .25 and I now have an RODI I use at home. My other levels are good.

Thanks
 
They all are GFO so no big difference. Its better to control feeding and use less GFO but change it frequently like every 2 weeks.
 
Hello all,
I have been using phosguard, but I am not happy with its performance. What media is longest lasting and has best absorption? I am ready to buy my next batch of media and want to switch. My po3/4 levels never dip below .25 and I now have an RODI I use at home. My other levels are good.

Thanks
Is everything going ok in the tank? Are you experiencing algae issue?

I always caution against chasing numbers in this hobby as there are some successful tanks that seem to do well with higher nutrient levels.
 
Is everything going ok in the tank? Are you experiencing algae issue?

I always caution against chasing numbers in this hobby as there are some successful tanks that seem to do well with higher nutrient levels.
Algea..I used to buy water from a LFS and they were selling water not filtered. advertised as filtered. We all know where that leads....so I am trying to kill a massive algea outbreak. got it all. hair, cyano, blue green....So I am looking to do what I can....
 
Algea..I used to buy water from a LFS and they were selling water not filtered. advertised as filtered. We all know where that leads....so I am trying to kill a massive algea outbreak. got it all. hair, cyano, blue green....So I am looking to do what I can....
OK, regular GFO will absorb phosphate about twice as fast as HC GFO. HC GFO will however hold much more phosphate before becoming exhausted. I prefer to use regular GFO to get the phoshate down, then HC GFO to maintain it there. Phosban is GFO. I prefer to use a pelletized GFO (ie: Warner Marine PhosAR or BRS) as if flow dips regular GFO can fuse together in your reactor. Phosguard is an aluminum based phosphate media. I'm sure it works, but I never used as I was told if not removed in a timely manner, it will release phosphate back into the water.
 
Also the Al based phosphate removers have been shown to irritate some corals as it releases small amounts of Al.

Triton has stated one should alternate an Al and Fe based media as the Fe is supposedly able to take up some of the Al. I will be trying to test that theory starting in the next couple days.
 
OK, regular GFO will absorb phosphate about twice as fast as HC GFO. HC GFO will however hold much more phosphate before becoming exhausted. I prefer to use regular GFO to get the phoshate down, then HC GFO to maintain it there. Phosban is GFO. I prefer to use a pelletized GFO (ie: Warner Marine PhosAR or BRS) as if flow dips regular GFO can fuse together in your reactor. Phosguard is an aluminum based phosphate media. I'm sure it works, but I never used as I was told if not removed in a timely manner, it will release phosphate back into the water.
good advice...Thanks
 
What about chemical pure elite etc? I went to a few show and they seems to be pretty good...
 
Also the Al based phosphate removers have been shown to irritate some corals as it releases small amounts of Al.

Triton has stated one should alternate an Al and Fe based media as the Fe is supposedly able to take up some of the Al. I will be trying to test that theory starting in the next couple days.

Has Triton documented increases in Al following use of Phosguard or are they simply stating that GFO can absorb Al so it's a good idea to alternate between the two. Reason I ask is because I just read on Seachem's website what they "determined" based on their research into Al leaching from Phosguard.

Here's the excerpt -
In recent years, there has been speculation that aluminum oxide based phosphate removers like PhosGuard™ release aluminum into the water and subsequently damage corals. The evidence to support this claim was largely anecdotal.

So, through a series of controlled experiments in both freshwater and saltwater, we intended to address both the question of aluminum solubility and aluminum toxicity. The results of these experiments show that under reef conditions (pH near 8) there is no detectable soluble aluminum released from alumina. Under conditions of low pH and high dosage levels, soluble aluminum can be released from alumina; at three times the label dosage rate, we detected 0.2 mg/L aluminum at a pH of 5.3.

Additionally, aluminum oxide is not easily absorbed into the cell to cause negative reactions. Even at three times the dose of PhosGuard™, soft-bodied corals such as Sarcophyton remain unaffected.

For the full report on this study, click here.

I clicked on the their link and it didn't take me to a full report...
 
Has Triton documented increases in Al following use of Phosguard or are they simply stating that GFO can absorb Al so it's a good idea to alternate between the two. Reason I ask is because I just read on Seachem's website what they "determined" based on their research into Al leaching from Phosguard.

Here's the excerpt -
In recent years, there has been speculation that aluminum oxide based phosphate removers like PhosGuard™ release aluminum into the water and subsequently damage corals. The evidence to support this claim was largely anecdotal.

So, through a series of controlled experiments in both freshwater and saltwater, we intended to address both the question of aluminum solubility and aluminum toxicity. The results of these experiments show that under reef conditions (pH near 8) there is no detectable soluble aluminum released from alumina. Under conditions of low pH and high dosage levels, soluble aluminum can be released from alumina; at three times the label dosage rate, we detected 0.2 mg/L aluminum at a pH of 5.3.

Additionally, aluminum oxide is not easily absorbed into the cell to cause negative reactions. Even at three times the dose of PhosGuard™, soft-bodied corals such as Sarcophyton remain unaffected.

For the full report on this study, click here.

I clicked on the their link and it didn't take me to a full report...

Ehsan has mentioned it in a speech several years ago. Possible its documented or in video.

I have started the process to test GFO's capabilities to pull out Al. It will be a long process as I'm also testing something else out at the same time as well.

Seachem has had that on their site for many years. Randy has debunked it years ago.
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2003/7/chemistry
 
Rowaphos worked great for my tank until i got my ats going
 
Dupla siliphos I've been trying it out and I am very happy with it. I believe that gfo they sell by the kilo is garbage.
 
On the note of algea removal, physical removal is a great tool. When you do a water change really go at it with a syphon to remove as much as you can. Can't spread and grow if it isn't there to begin with. I've been dealing with a severe cyano outbreak and doing this has REALLY helped. I haven't even had to use any chemical treatments or special media (yet) but I may have to in order to finish it off
 
Have you looked into lanthanum chloride? Such as Phosphat-E or Phosphate RX... This worked well for me to get my phosphates under control. Now I maintain with GFO in a reactor.
 
I use gfo in a reactor. I have cut back. I teat p04 about every week. When it reaches .1 ppm then change. It will go to about .037 ppm and takes about 6 to 8 weeks to rise to .1 ppm.
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

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