GHL Mitras 7206

[RobW]

Hi everyone. I'm designing a new system for our home. Roughly 275 Gallon display with a 100 gallon sump. I really have my heart set on using GHL for all of my control and lighting purposes. Display will be 66" L x 32" W x 30" T. I thinking mixed reef, maybe SPS dominant with fish. looking to use GHL Mitras 7206 in combination with some of their mini light bars for some effects and moonlighting. anyone have the 7206 that can share some input about the quality of light, coral growth results, and how many I should use? I want even coverage and trying to eliminate potential dark spots in the display.

 

[Ron Reefman]

10days and no replies? Have you bought the fixture yet? Or are you still looking for info?

 

[RobW]

Not yet. But I'm leaning towards GHL for everything.

 

[BCSreef]

Hi Rob,

Not a lot of us GHL users here

I have the GHL controller plus 6 of the 7206s. I love the lights. I looked at all the alternatives and only the GHLs or T5s would work due to short canopy.

The spread and even PAR is great with the 6 mini-pucks and the reflectors (no optics). With the P4 controller and Light Composer (Windows PC app), programming them is easy and quick.

What mounting height are you looking at and how many and where are your braces? Let me know if you have any specific questions. I'll be out most of the day, but will get back to you later tonight or tomorrow.

Bob

 

[esther]

Check out @telegraham on Instagram. He has great experience with the Mitras. https://www.instagram.com/telegraham/?hl=en

 

[cflores]

another person that uses mitras is reefbum, he has a pretty extensive video on his lights and how he uses telegraham's program to mimic metal haild spectrums, I am also thinking of mitras but with the new ati straton that might be a better option

 

[RobW]

Hi Rob,

Not a lot of us GHL users here

I have the GHL controller plus 6 of the 7206s. I love the lights. I looked at all the alternatives and only the GHLs or T5s would work due to short canopy.

The spread and even PAR is great with the 6 mini-pucks and the reflectors (no optics). With the P4 controller and Light Composer (Windows PC app), programming them is easy and quick.

What mounting height are you looking at and how many and where are your braces? Let me know if you have any specific questions. I'll be out most of the day, but will get back to you later tonight or tomorrow.

Bob

I have about about 28" of room above the tank where the lights can suspend. The tanknis 66" long. I was thinking 4 of the mitras. What height above the water line would you recommend. I was going to suspended them from the stainless cable kits.

 

[RobW]

Check out @telegraham on Instagram. He has great experience with the Mitras. https://www.instagram.com/telegraham/?hl=en

Thank you.

 

[BCSreef]

I think starting with 4 would work for a mixed reef. Your tank is deep, so if you wanted Acros in the very lowest parts, or just needed more PAR or spread you could always add another fixture or two. As far as height, you would have to decide that based on desired aquascape, PAR, spread and your tolerance to light spill.

My short canopy forced me to mount the fixtures close to the glass tops, which places the fixtures ~3-4" off the water. I started with 3 fixtures (too many dim spots), then 4 and finally 6 which gave me near perfect coverage.

I hope that helps! Don't hesitate to ask more questions. There is a Mitras forum over on the GHL site: https://forum.aquariumcomputer.com/forumdisplay.php?64-Mitras You may find additional advice there.

 

[RobW]

I think starting with 4 would work for a mixed reef. Your tank is deep, so if you wanted Acros in the very lowest parts, or just needed more PAR or spread you could always add another fixture or two. As far as height, you would have to decide that based on desired aquascape, PAR, spread and your tolerance to light spill.

My short canopy forced me to mount the fixtures close to the glass tops, which places the fixtures ~3-4" off the water. I started with 3 fixtures (too many dim spots), then 4 and finally 6 which gave me near perfect coverage.

I hope that helps! Don't hesitate to ask more questions. There is a Mitras forum over on the GHL site: https://forum.aquariumcomputer.com/forumdisplay.php?64-Mitras You may find additional advice there.

Thanks. I was thinking roughly 6"-8" for coverage. I have the room inside the canopy. Top of the tank will sit at 72" ceiling is 100" in that room. No light spill as the custom wall unit will go floor to ceiling. Canopy doors flip up vertically. Tank is deeper, yes. So I know cleaning will be a chore but, I just love the look of a deeper tank.

 

[BCSreef]

Thanks. I was thinking roughly 6"-8" for coverage. I have the room inside the canopy. Top of the tank will sit at 72" ceiling is 100" in that room. No light spill as the custom wall unit will go floor to ceiling. Canopy doors flip up vertically. Tank is deeper, yes. So I know cleaning will be a chore but, I just love the look of a deeper tank.

Nice setup! You'll need long arms. I wish I had the vertical canopy space! I only have 6"

My lights are 3-5" inches above the waterline and I have a dark area at the top 2" of the back wall and about the same on front wall. If I open the canopy and raise the light to ~7" above the waterline, I get 100% coverage over the surface. My tank is a 180 at 72X24X24. You have 32" to cover, so if you want to get 100% coverage up high in the tank (only important for fish viewing or corals high up in the back), you may need to go up a little higher to 8-12". That will drop PAR, but 4 Mitras, maybe 5 should do it.

One thing to know is that the Mitras run hot in my opinion. With my canopy off and a 68-70 degree room, my lights hit the thermal limit at ~70-75% of max. They actually run cooler with the canopy on and the 12 fans blowing air through the canopy. So, be sure to have some sort of air exchange.

Let me know if you have any questions and also how the lights work out.

 

[telegraham]

Hey, Rob. 9" above the water works very well for me.

Thanks. I was thinking roughly 6"-8" for coverage. I have the room inside the canopy. Top of the tank will sit at 72" ceiling is 100" in that room. No light spill as the custom wall unit will go floor to ceiling. Canopy doors flip up vertically. Tank is deeper, yes. So I know cleaning will be a chore but, I just love the look of a deeper tank.

 

[telegraham]

Regarding temp, the Mitras and Radions both run warm when pushed. What's nice about the Mitras is the onboard screen and temp awareness.

Jim

Nice setup! You'll need long arms. I wish I had the vertical canopy space! I only have 6"

My lights are 3-5" inches above the waterline and I have a dark area at the top 2" of the back wall and about the same on front wall. If I open the canopy and raise the light to ~7" above the waterline, I get 100% coverage over the surface. My tank is a 180 at 72X24X24. You have 32" to cover, so if you want to get 100% coverage up high in the tank (only important for fish viewing or corals high up in the back), you may need to go up a little higher to 8-12". That will drop PAR, but 4 Mitras, maybe 5 should do it.

One thing to know is that the Mitras run hot in my opinion. With my canopy off and a 68-70 degree room, my lights hit the thermal limit at ~70-75% of max. They actually run cooler with the canopy on and the 12 fans blowing air through the canopy. So, be sure to have some sort of air exchange.

Let me know if you have any questions and also how the lights work out.

 

[telegraham]

Keith's install is clean!!!

another person that uses mitras is reefbum, he has a pretty extensive video on his lights and how he uses telegraham's program to mimic metal haild spectrums, I am also thinking of mitras but with the new ati straton that might be a better option

 

[BigAl07]

another person that uses mitras is reefbum, he has a pretty extensive video on his lights and how he uses telegraham's program to mimic metal haild spectrums, I am also thinking of mitras but with the new ati straton that might be a better option

I know this is a REALLY old post but . . .

I can't find the videos on his lights etc mimicing halide other than one mention in his build thread over in post #97

Thanks in advance

Allen in NC

 

[KStatefan]

I know this is a REALLY old post but . . .

I can't find the videos on his lights etc mimicing halide other than one mention in his build thread over in post #97

Thanks in advance

Allen in NC

This is what he sent me when I asked Keith what he was using.

Power balance settings:

100% for all 9 channels

Spectrum:

• Blue – 100%
• Royal Blue – 100%
• Cool White – 28%
• Blue White – 100%
• True Green – 28%
• Hyper Red – 16%
• Sky White 28%
• Ultraviolet – 100%
• Hyperviolet – 100%

 

[telegraham]

I know this is a REALLY old post but . . .

I can't find the videos on his lights etc mimicing halide other than one mention in his build thread over in post #97

Thanks in advance

Allen in NC

What @KStatefan shared gives you something similar to 20,000k. If you want 14,000k, consider running all channels at 100%. I just shifted to all at 100%, and I really like how it looks.

 

[oreo54]

What @KStatefan shared gives you something similar to 20,000k. If you want 14,000k, consider running all channels at 100%. I just shifted to all at 100%, and I really like how it looks.

REAL 20000K or "20000K"..


Anyways have you ever measured the k temp and/ or spectrum of the 3 white types individually?
Blue white
Cool white
Sky white
Some of these are composites of blue+ white?.

 

[telegraham]

REAL 20000K or "20000K"..


Anyways have you ever measured the k temp and/ or spectrum of the 3 white types individually?
Blue white
Cool white
Sky white
Some of these are composites of blue+ white?.

"Something similar to 20,000k."