Gilroy 425g Build Thread (All Apex, all the time)

your going to need a bigger board lol

I will have most of the main control stuff for this area of the aquarium on this board. I will have an additional panel for the "make-water" control as well as however many DŌS I will use. Right now I know I will use one DŌS for ongoing water change, then another for calcium reactor feed on one side and who knows what on the other. Also, I will have another board under the tank where two 1LINK, an ALD, VDM and at least one EB4 or EB8 will be mounted.
 
Definitely following this build. I'm currently having a home built (with supporting fish room of course) and plan on stealing, I mean borrowing as many ideas as I can from big builds like yours. Looking to one of the pros on organizing a controller board too. Having your emergency overflow enter the sump where the return pump will blow bubbles is one of those great common sense solutions that I love learning from fellow hobbyists. Im borrowing that idea too:DThanks Terence. Great build, well thought out and I can't wait to see what you stock this masterpiece with.
 
Might I suggest having the emergency overflow dump right next to your salinity probe since the air bubbles will cause the probe to read a rapid drop in salinity setting off an alarm on your apex just in case you aren't sitting in front of your tank to see the bubbles coming out of the return.
 
Might I suggest having the emergency overflow dump right next to your salinity probe since the air bubbles will cause the probe to read a rapid drop in salinity setting off an alarm on your apex just in case you aren't sitting in front of your tank to see the bubbles coming out of the return.

That is an excellent suggestion. I will see if I can incorporate that. But I would have to move my PM2 to the other side of the sump. I need to mount a board over there anyways for the EB4 that will control my return pump.
 
About time this is moving along. I can't wait to see it completed. I love the look of the modules without the mounting screws showing on the sides. The new quick mounts are awesome.
 
OK, a few new things to report.

First off, about five days ago I tested the tank, nitrates and phosphates were low. Likewise Nitrates. So, I put in five little chromis to get some poop going and see how things progress. Remember, I already put a starter culture in here. Today I will do another round of Nitrite/Nitrate testing. I expect it still to be extremely low. If all is well, I will add a couple of more "starter" fish to the mix and start bringing things up slowly.

Lighting has been determined. It will be a surprise. I don't expect it to arrive until around the second or third week of January. I have to get the "bones" of the canopy done in that time.

Warming the tank up has proven to be a bigger challenge than I had expected. I started with leaving the sump uncovered and using two 300W Azoo titanium heaters. These things are crap really. The thermister and the element are in the same end-piece so it cycles on and off every five to 15 minutes as the thermister misreads the tank temperature. So effectively they are probably like owning a 250W heater due to this unintentional duty cycle.

Those two brand new heaters were not enough - couldn't get the tank over 70 (over night temps were 33 and daytime at 56). So I went digging through my fish boxes and found yet another nearly the same heater. Guess what, no surprise, same off-on anomaly. I plugged it in and watched the EB8 toggle between 3, 6, and 9 amps depending on when these were cycling. Still not enough heat. Had to bring home a 300w Jager from work. Now I am running 1200W (prob closer to 1000w due to cycling of power on the crappy Azoo) but I still am only now slowly creeping pas 73. And that was with covering the sump now with 2" of foam.

So I decided to do the math. Turns out, there is a lot of surface area of water exposed. I have about 170+ feet of 2" pipe (85' each direction). That works out to be about 90 square feet of surface area with about 1/8" or less of PVC between the water and air. Also, the sides of the sump were not insulated. In total I figured about 120 square feet. That is like having a 10' x 12' single pane window in your room. No wonder I cannot get this tank warm.

So, project for this weekend: Insulate the pipe and sump. Not a lot of good choices that are economical for wrapping 2" pipe. So, I decided to simply cover every square inch of my body with something and go at it with standard rolled wall insulation. I will simply cut it down the middle, wrap the pipe with it, and use tape and/or zip ties to hold it together. For the sump I will use solid foam, cut to fit, and apply with liquid nails.

Fun Fun.

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I will likely use these, they are not bad heaters, it is just that most people do not realize this limitation - that due to the duty cycle you really are not going to get the same heat output (over time) that you would with another type. I will have live rock in this sump and be banging around so I did not want to have glass heaters.

Public Service Announcement:
It should be noted here that these titanium heaters I am using DO have their own thermostats. NEVER cut corners and buy the titanium heater element and plugging it into your Apex without its own thermostat. A number of self-described "expert" reefkeepers have done this and the outcome was not pretty. The idea of an Apex in regards to heating and cooling of your tank is REDUNDANCY.
 
I have 3 500 watt heaters on my tank but I'm up in New Hampshire and my sump is on a concrete slab and some times it is just enough to heat up my 300 gallon system to 78 degrees
 
Drain the sump. Put 2" of foam under it. It will save a ton. Also, wrap the non-business sides of the sump as well. I don't know about your area, but me saving 600W for half the day is huge $.
 
I will likely use these, they are not bad heaters, it is just that most people do not realize this limitation - that due to the duty cycle you really are not going to get the same heat output (over time) that you would with another type. I will have live rock in this sump and be banging around so I did not want to have glass heaters.

Public Service Announcement:
It should be noted here that these titanium heaters I am using DO have their own thermostats. NEVER cut corners and buy the titanium heater element and plugging it into your Apex without its own thermostat. A number of self-described "expert" reefkeepers have done this and the outcome was not pretty. The idea of an Apex in regards to heating and cooling of your tank is REDUNDANCY.


I would ditch those Azoo heaters, sounds like something that will cause future headaches.

I ran a Via Aqua titanium heater for 2 years without a hiccup. It was the older style with the analog controller, but I'm sure these guys work just as good.


Something to note about the Via Aqua heater, is that it comes with a "REMOTE TEMPERATURE SENSOR". Problem solved.

$41 for a 300w heater doesn't sound too bad. Maybe you can get away with running 3 of them
 
I am suspect of any of these titanium heaters now that do not have a separate wire for the thermister. There is nothing wrong with the heaters. Most people probably do not even know this is happening. For me it just means that their heat output, over time, is less.
 
OK, so the project for today is how to save heat, which saves electricity, which saves $ - big $ here in CA.

I went down to Lowes an picked up a sheet of 2" foam as well as a package of this fancy wall insulation that is fully encapsulated in plastic except for the top and bottom (No itchies - Yea!). It comes in 96"x15"x3.5" battens. These would be perfect to wrap my pipe.

So I got home and went to work cutting up the foam and using liquid nails and duct tape to adhere it to the sides of the sump up to the water level. Then on to wrapping the pipe. I only got one package of the insulation to try it out first. I was able to do about 85% of the drain line - the pipe with the thinest walls.

On another day I will buy one more package and that should be enough to do 15' more of the drain and the return line as well (it runs a different, more direct path back to the tank as it is flex.)

Maybe it was my imagination, but it seemed that the tank was heating up faster already. There was a steep line in the graph. We will see now how it does overnight.

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Cant wait to see all the fusion programming on this thing when your done please share
Absolutely. It will be a constant evolution I believe. Right now it is just in its infant stages and I need to get all the basics in place first.
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

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  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

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  • No.

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