Gilroy 425g Build Thread (All Apex, all the time)

Hi Terence, Good to read you are making progress with the installation of the Coralcare fixtures.. keep us posted!

And I think this is the 1000th post in this thread. Congrats!!
 
Ok. So I got farther on things today than I ever thought I would. My idea of using clothesline hooks to hold the light worked out great. I simply made standoffs out of my 3/4" plywood scrap and luckily my hood is offset to the front so the lights had to be offset to the back in order to be centered. This means that the back inside of the hood would support the light when lifted up! That was my biggest worry and that simple fact made my life so much easier.

For now the dimming has not been connected so they are set up to whatever the default is when the lights are just plugged in. Probably 100%

Too tired now to do the dimming. Maybe tomorrow.

The last pic shows the FTS with the Philips on the left and only the 250w 14k metal halide on right (no led)

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Looks good! How do you like the light so far?

Well I just turned them on!

But I have seen these things run before at Interzoo this year and they looked amazing. So far it looks great over the tank. We will see how it goes and I will of course report back here.

One thing for sure with these LED is that you can snap photos with your iPhone and they look just like they do to your eye. It is kind of amazing really as I am used to seeing the blue shift all the time with LED. Check out those coral pics above right out of my iPhone 6.
 
Ok. So I got farther on things today than I ever thought I would. My idea of using clothesline hooks to hold the light worked out great. I simply made standoffs out of my 3/4" plywood scrap and luckily my hood is offset to the front so the lights had to be offset to the back in order to be centered. This means that the back inside of the hood would support the light when lifted up! That was my biggest worry and that simple fact made my life so much easier.

For now the dimming has not been connected so they are set up to whatever the default is when the lights are just plugged in. Probably 100%

Too tired now to do the dimming. Maybe tomorrow.

The last pic shows the FTS with the Philips on the left and only the 250w 14k metal halide on right (no led)

IMG_8273.JPG
IMG_8276.JPG
IMG_8277.JPG
IMG_8283.JPG
IMG_8289.JPG
IMG_8293.JPG
IMG_8291.JPG
IMG_8295.JPG

Very nice! Those things look great as does your tank!
 
OK, so this morning I finished up the wiring and the mounting of the EB6 and CoralCare Controller. Still trying to figure out what the two 0-10v channels actually do. Looks like some sort of color shift on both. I thought at first it was doing something like Kessil which is shift color on on channel and do intensity on the other, but it doesn't look like that. It looks like there is some hybrid color shift and intensity happening on both channels. Doesn't seem logical but I am sure there is a perfectly good reason for doing it. For now I just did a simple daily ramp that was the same from both channels. I couldn't find any docs on the 0-10V so far but I am sure Luc will send me something soon and I will share how I set them up.

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Hi Terence,

You have been busy this weekend :)!
The 0-10V interface works relatively staight forward.
The first input determines the light output of the "Blue" channel (combination between 420nm and 450nm LED's)
The second input determines the light output of the "white" channel (combination between 6500k, Cyan and Amber LED's).
The dimming curve is implemented according to the standarized 0-10V interface document and you should be able to control both channels independently.
The dimming curves themselves are not linear, but that is indeed done on purpose.

Please send me a message if you perceive something different.. could be a grounding issue due to the custom setup (110V/220V)(floating ground plane).
 
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That's awesome your testing out those Phillips leds. It's exciting to see a big lighting company get involved with reef tank lighting.

You should take an sps frag and cut it in half, and place one half on the MH side and the other half on the LED side. That would give a great comparison of the two lights. Maybe do the same with lps and a softy.
 
Hi Terence,

You have been busy this weekend :)!
The 0-10V interface works relatively staight forward.
The first input determines the light output of the "Blue" channel (combination between 420nm and 450nm LED's)
The second input determines the light output of the "white" channel (combination between 6500k, Cyan and Amber LED's).
The dimming curve is implemented according to the standarized 0-10V interface document and you should be able to control both channels independently.
The dimming curves themselves are not linear, but that is indeed done on purpose.

Please send me a message if you perceive something different.. could be a grounding issue due to the custom setup (110V/220V)(floating ground plane).

Ok. That kind of makes sense.

However it would be nice to do it like the Kessils when you only get the two channels. One sets the look and the other sets the intensity.

I just have to find the right curves that will make it look good through the entire dawn to dusk cycle. Any help in that regard would be appreciated. In other words, what would the two slopes look like to have a 0700 to 2100 dawn to dusk with a peak at 100% day (symmetrical)?
 
They dim all the way off. They come on at around 8% which is about normal for 0-10v control. At that level, with just the blue side, it is pretty dim, but like most LED of this kind, it is not dim enough for moonlight. But that's OK, Neptune has a solution for that ;)
 
Ok. That kind of makes sense.

However it would be nice to do it like the Kessils when you only get the two channels. One sets the look and the other sets the intensity.

I just have to find the right curves that will make it look good through the entire dawn to dusk cycle. Any help in that regard would be appreciated. In other words, what would the two slopes look like to have a 0700 to 2100 dawn to dusk with a peak at 100% day (symmetrical)?
The setup of the scheduler application on the CoralCare controller works in a similar way.
The user first determines the desired color point to his liking, and then decides what intensity (independently from the color point) to set (depending on the coral needs).

If you need some guidance with setting up a dusk to dawn schedule I advise the following procedure:

Download the CoralCare software from our main page and attach the controller via USB to a computer. Open the standard program (or the program of one of our test users that can be found on our main page). Set the CoralCare controller in “Live mode” and determine how the schedule setup looks for your reef. You can also use the demo mode to summarize your 24hour schedule in a 2 minute period.

If you are happy with the schedule you can copy the channel values that are noted in the Color temperature sliders (highlighted in red in the below picture).
So .. Warm & .. Cold for each time instant.
These values correspond to the absolute power levels of the two channels. If you map this to the 0-10V interface (>9.5V = 100%, 1V = 1%) you can achieve an exactly similar schedule with your Apex controller

So in example, this is the schedule I currently run for my reef:

settings_Luc1.jpg


If you use the standardized curve you end up with the following values:
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curve.jpg

There could be some minor differences between these theoretical values due to implementation choice of the Apex software/hardware (different absolute 1-100% levels or dimming curve) and some voltage drop over the interface. But the result and procedure should be good enough to define a strong base level on which you can tweak and experiment to set it to your own liking.

Good luck and have fun with it!

Please message me if something is unclear, I do not want to hijack your topic any further with it :)
Will they dim all the way to off, or very dim at least?

They dim all the way off. They come on at around 8% which is about normal for 0-10v control. At that level, with just the blue side, it is pretty dim, but like most LED of this kind, it is not dim enough for moonlight. But that's OK, Neptune has a solution for that
The CoralCare fixture dims down to a level of 1% (what corresponds to 6mA of the normal 600mA drive current).
At this region the LED’s run very efficient and therefor Philips advises not to use these settings for a constant “night light effect”.
The corals really need a lengthy dark period to recover from their photosynthetic energy cycles that occurs during daytime.
If moonlight is a wish I would advise to use a very dim light source (possibly some single LED’s) to ensure the corals and fish get the rest they need.[/URL][/QUOTE]
 
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Ok Luc that all makes sense. This is not a thread hijack. At some point someone else will want to do this very same thing and having it here is helpful for them.

Everything above makes total sense. There is just one major problem - I run a Mac!

You guys need Mac OS software ASAP or some kind of hybrid web app. I think I might have a notebook from 2008 lying around here somewhere running Vista. :) I will see if I can find it.

So far the schedule I had yesterday had both channels on the exact same ramp up and down path and it looked pretty amazing just like that!

I think it would be awesome if you or some other enthusiast with a CoralCare and An Apex started to use our new Scheme feature (we just put this in Apex Fusion a week or so ago) and create a bunch of preset schedules for the two channels (to be used together of course and named to make that easier).

I have already saved mine but it's no big deal since both channels were set identical.
 
So, we never heard back on the acros. Did the problems go away? New LED fixtures are exciting but if you don't know what is hurting the corals (but guessing it might have to do with lighting), swapping out proven lights for unknown seems questionable.
 
Problems have not gone away. I haven't really had much more loss and some of them like the green acro above and my anacropora are growing like crazy.

LPS side was showing signs of over lighting. So I have pulled back all LED on that side for the time being.

Were it not for my ability to test drive these Philips CoralCare, I would not have made the switch. I did not switch because of the corals, but rather the game changer I see these lights becoming.

Doing so also made adjusting the ramping and mixing much easier than my initial set up.

But, time will tell how well they do, I certainly expect good things based on case studies already done.
 
You guys need Mac OS software ASAP or some kind of hybrid web app. I think I might have a notebook from 2008 lying around here somewhere running Vista. :) I will see if I can find it.

Hi Terence
Easily done on your Mac, and for free.

1. Download VirtualBox - https://www.virtualbox.org/wiki/Downloads
2. Download the appropriate image of windows from Microsoft: https://developer.microsoft.com/en-us/microsoft-edge/tools/vms/#downloads
3. Unzip the image
4. Open virtualbox and do file>import, select the image and fire it up.

Whenever you connect the controller via USB, you'll have to tell the virtual machine to use it. Plug it in, then right click the USB Icon in the VM Status Bar at bottom of screen, OR from Menu go Devices > USB Devices, and select desired device.
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

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  • No.

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  • Other (please explain).

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