Going from central overflow to "ghost" overflow?

michaelrc51

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I have a DSA 225 Pro tank that I am preparing for a build. It currently has 3, 3/4" returns and 2, 1" feeds plumbed through a central overflow. Since I can't leave well enough alone I am contemplating getting rid of the central overflow and going with a "ghost" overflow from Synergy reef or Reef Savvy. So, I'll need to block off the current holes and drill the tank for the "ghost" overflow.

So, my question is....if I remove my overflow and get a piece of glass to silicon over the existing holes to seal them off, how thick would you go?

I was thinking 1/2" or 5/8" thick cause I don't think the pressure is much just over those holes. I was thinking 18"x 6"x 1/2" thick. I am thinking it will be great and also sand bed will cover it fine.
Any other suggestions on how to seal off the holes?

Thoughts?
 
Instead of siliconing a piece of glass why don't you try using some bulkhead fittings. You can screw them in and either thread a closed nipple into it or glue it in depending if the bulkhead is slip or threaded.
 
I don't see why covering the holes wouldn't work imo course I'm no expert
 
Thanks fro the responses.

I thought about some sort of cap or the bulkhead idea but the protrude kind of high and still a chance to leak.
I think with a large enough piece of glass siliconed in place it should easily cover the whole area and actually I think the water weight will help pus down on the glass creating an even greater seal. I will silicon it and won't be adding water for months so t should be well cured and water tight. Also, it will be covered by the sand bed.
I just think the ghost overflow looks so much nicer and takes up so much less space.

Think 1/2" thick glass is thick enough?
 
Water will find a way out if there is even a tiny pin hole. The weight of the water will have no effect in keeping in creating a seal. Make sure the glass is at least the same thickness as the tank. Have the edges ground so there are no sharp edges. The last thing you want is to happen to run your fingers along the edge and get cut. Don't just run a bead on the edges of the patch, but around the holes and across the area the glass patch will bond too. If the beads are close enough together they will form a continuous layer when the patch is pressed down on the area. It only takes about 48 hours for the silicone to cure.

You'll like the synergy overflow. I have one and the CL-22 sump w/ATO on order. It's very clean and only sticks out into the tank no more then 1.5". I think you'll be very happy with it.
 
Ok. Yeah, that central overflow is huge and it takes up so much space.

I didn't think the water weight would seal it but I thought the pressure of the weight would help keep pressure downward thus really helping the situation.

I think I will do as you said and glue the bottom to the tank and once that's dry I will seal around the perimeter. Only thing I am conscious of is putting to much weight on it and pushing the sealant out from under the plate. But I am going to seal around the perimeter as well so I think it should be ok.
 
I did a similar thing using a piece of .20" plexi and a small tube of aquarium silicone. Made the plexi go an inch past the holes on all sides. Put a thin layer of silicone over the plexi and pressed it to the glass over the holes. Put a brick on it to let the silicone set up. I also put a perimeter of silicone around the plexi on the inside of the tank and also packed the holes from the underside with silicone and it makes good plugs that can be removed later. But the bulk heads idea sounds good also, just make sure that no rock gets stacked on it or the sand bed is deep enough so the caps aren't showing
 
Yeah, I'm just going to get a piece of 1/2" glass cut. I'll probably throw some pieces of zip tie in under the piece when I silicone it to make sure all the silicone doesn't get squeezed out. Once that dries I'll silicone around the base and the holes from underneath.
 

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