Goniopora

  • Thread starter Thread starter Alwmh4
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I have several goniopora for years but only after several failed attempts. They are not a coral for beginners and should not be attempted if you do not have success with corals.

But an encrusting type they are more hardy. They do need to be feed but are more of a filter feeder. Power or dry foods are best a few times a week. They like good water quality so be sure your numbers are in check. Med lighting and flow. But slowly acclimate to your lighting. Place on sand bed. I place the frag plug onto a frag donut to keep the flesh above the sand. Frags have a tendency to sink into sand.

They are prone to several disease so keep eye on it to catch it early.
 
Thank you. I've had great luck with all my other corals thus far. I've just always been timid of the goniopora. If I do see any signs if desease, would you suggest a product like coral revive?
 
I never feed my 3....
I was at my LFS and saw he just got a shipment in and had about 10 Green ones. Almost picked one up but changed my mind and got a nice sized Green Brain instead.
 
Thank you. I've had great luck with all my other corals thus far. I've just always been timid of the goniopora. If I do see any signs if desease, would you suggest a product like coral revive?

Most dips for parasite and bacteria would work. They are very prone to brown jelly. It is also very hard to curb it once the gonipora get it. Even after using a turkey baster to remove it and dips. It more than likely will return. Gonipora hide decline very well. They will look great for months. Then suddenly not open. Then you see they have been actually receding for quite some time. Then it is generally too late. Don't lapse because it looks good for several months. I have and death to the coral resulted.

So look it over when polyps are closed for signs of receding. They will open every day so it is stays closed for more than a day or polyps are not as long. It could be a sign something is wrong. I have colonies that are over 5 years old. They can be kept as long as you learn from mistakes.
 
Oh Lordy I'm scared lol. It's just a small guy in case I screw up. Just put in tank so will see if it's little "arms" start to stretch out in next day or so. I'm playing with the power head as I think some spots in my tank are quite strong. Will attempt to feed it today too. I have to admit, my other corals are beginner (xenia growing like a weed, Galaxy, richordia, brain)
 
Oh Lordy I'm scared lol. It's just a small guy in case I screw up. Just put in tank so will see if it's little "arms" start to stretch out in next day or so. I'm playing with the power head as I think some spots in my tank are quite strong. Will attempt to feed it today too. I have to admit, my other corals are beginner (xenia growing like a weed, Galaxy, richordia, brain)

They like good water movement but until it opens it will be hard to judge what is too little or too much. How long has it been in your tank? Depending on your tank it may take a day or do to open. But if it has been a few days and not opening. Check water perimeters. If your galaxea is always flowing and your xenia are pulsing, if it is pulsing variety, you are doing fine. Xenia is a quick tell of water alk levels.
 
Ive noticed they like cleaner water than most lps. I have a few systems from intentionally dirty to clean sps systems.
 
I agree the xenia is very stenetypic (sp?) as when I did bristleworm treatment, it let me know "ok you need to stop now." Calcium levels are off the charts but my carbonate which is usually high had dropped to just below acceptable (bout130). I changed from using a buffer solution (I learned that seasoned reefers hate this stuff) to using limewater as my ph was never as high as Id like. Well now my carbonate has dropped. Ugh so I added carbonate supplement now.
Xenia is pulsing. And 24 hrs in tank the goniopora is out and waving.
I did relocate my galaxy to try to "capture" some of the over growing xenia on a piece of rubble but even in its new location, it seems happy.
 
Ph maintaining at 8.3 is lofty for must reefers. Alk and calcium unbalanced, if just can not get it right no matter how you try. One high the other low and no matter how much buffer you add it will not go higher, check your magnesium.
 
Ok I'm really not good at titrations but I'm thinking im between 1220-1320. I just can't see the color chang clearly or I'm doing it too slow or something.

I add lime water, diluted to about 9.5-10 ph at night via a doser at 1.1 mil per minute. I run it for about an hr. My co2 scrubber needs to be changed I think bc my oh has dropped from 8.2/8.3 to 7.9. I'm extremely cautious so I might not be adding enough. I don't want to crash my tank. I just started lime water about a week ago and stopped with buffer

I gotta figure out which combination of all of the above works. Maybe I was better sticking to a buffer???
 
A ph difference of 0.3 is normal in most tanks. Morning being the lowest reading. I drip my kalk, which is basically lime water. 24/7 it is my top off. You will go nuts if you try and get ph maintain at 8.3. It will swing it is the amount of swing that is the issue that can be bad. If you maintain 7.9-8.4 range per day there will be a morning and evening swing but in an acceptable swing. Alk between 8.0-12 but at a constant level. Calcium between 450-500. The alk low should match the calcium low and alk high calcium high ranges. Magnesium about 3 times your calcium level. You should be fine. In my area a ph scrubber never lived up to the hype.
 
As a side note, is there a text book or encyclopedia of corals out there. One with pictures to identify along with its preferred parameters? I'd like to learn more
 

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