Good perameters?

Tank.Bro!

Active Member
View Badges
Joined
Nov 9, 2014
Messages
446
Reaction score
2
Location
Pittsburgh P.a
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
I'm curious if I'm ready to add live stock with this now fully cycled tank. I have not done a water change for nitrates so beware they are through the roof.
•alk 12mk? I thinks that's how it's measured

•salinity 1.026

•nitrate over 160

•Nitrite 20

•ph 8.1

•calcium 400

•ammonia .25

•phosphate minimal at 0.00001

So if I missed any just ask
 
NO.

You need 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite, and Nitrates well below what you have. Nitrates of around 40ppm max for fish only, or more like less than 5 for coral.
 
I just said... ARE THESE GOOD TO FINISH THE CYCLE WITH A WATER CHANGE THEN TO ADD LIVE STOCK IF I DO A FRICKEN WATER CHANGE THEN THISE WILL BE 0 so you didn't answer my question ARE THESE GOOD PARAMETERS FOR END OF A Cycle?
 
Your attitude is not helpful.

I did answer your question: NO. They are not good to finish the cycle. Your ammonia and nitrite should be 0 (as I stated above) at the end of your cycle. The water change is only used to reduce nitrates, but even a 75% water change would only get you down to like 40ppm. There are many stickied posts elsewhere on cycling tanks and recommended levels. I suggest you do more research before stocking the tank.
 
Wow TANK BRO! you don't need to be nasty. the man answered you professionally just say thank you
 
Last edited:
Did tests over gain to refresh
Nitrates are 50
Ammonia 0
Nitrite 2
Phosphate 0.000001
Ph 8.0
Alk 12
Salinity need to top it off 1.028 I'll do that now....
Temp 79.8
 
Lower your temp slowly to 77 / 78 if you can and alk is a little high I would keep it at around 8 to 9 dkh
 
Okay thanks.... I've been using buffers for the ph so all is a little high but I like my tank temp I'll lower it to 78.9 tho because say I do have a malfunction I have more time....
 
Once nitrite reaches 0 on its own cycle is done. Then do water change to bring down nitrates.
 
How did you cycle the tank?

I don't agree with any need to lower the temperature as I think 80 deg F is fine, but otherwise I agree with the advice.

Don't add any more buffer unless the alkalinity drops below your target, which I recommend 7-11 dKH.

The main concern from a toxicity perspective is ammonia being gone. Nitrite is not toxic in marine systems, but waiting for it to disappear is a fine plan to ensure the ammonia reducing bacteria are even more established.

This has more:

https://www.reef2reef.com/forums/re...-coral-reef-aquarium-randy-holmes-farley.html
 
Last edited:
I cycle with live rock from a previous tank that had crashed I cleaned it well and stuck it in with live sand and the stuff I didnt get died off then y ammonia a grew and nitrites grew now I have nitrates at 50 so... Nitrites are lower today, I picked up some salt?
How do I mix this how much do I add per gallon for Lps and soft corals I would like to later put Lps it has a lot of information for diffrent measures but they are all in grams need help... How much do you add?

ImageUploadedByREEF2REEF1417810719.363650.jpg
 
My recommendation is to always mix salt to a measured specific gravity, rather than by cups (except as a way to get to the measurement step).

I recommend about 35 ppt or 1.026 specific gravity for any reef. :)
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%

New Posts

Back
Top