Good water quality. Changes causing cyano and Hair Algae?

[mopar_1974]

Hello Everyone.
I'm a long tome lurker, first time posting. I have a 90 Gallon Reef tank that has been established for roughly 5 years. For a ling time, I was running live rock, marinepure in sump, carbon, GFO, BRS 2 part, and Reef octopus skimmer. Occasionally would dose NO3PO4X at signs of detritus and discoloring of sand. Recently have been trying to move more toward the "triton" method. A few weeks ago, I pulled out my sump and rearranged the baffles to make more room for the refugium. In doing so, I removed the marinepure because I figured the amount of live rock I had should be sufficient for bacteria and I wanted more room in the fuge. I purchased a kessil H380 and got some well established Chaeto from a buddy's tank. I have been starting off slow with the lighting, (3 hours a night) but the chaeto has been melting. I have very low nitrates (0ppm with red sea test and 3ppm with nyos) and phosphates tested near 0. I had a bad hair algae bloom and cyanobacteria bloom but have started doing daily/every other day 20% water changes to keep that under control. The cyano is gone but the HA is still running wild. I also tried keeping the chaeto under 6500k CFL lighting but it still would not grow. Not sure where to turn to next. doing daily water changes is something I would like to stop and I would like to get the refugium thriving as I would like to establish a better pod population. Any help or advice is always appreciated.

Thanks

 

[FartyParty]

Cheatomorpha will grow with a Kessil H380, so it is likely another parameter that is off. When was your last ICP test , what were the results and how much water % have you changed since that last test?

Also, when i had a similar outbreak of some strange stringy slime, I added a UV off the return pump and had to frequently shake the cheato to keep the slime from seemingly "melting" it. I'm not sure if the slime was "eating" the cheato or simply smothering it, but the UV seemed to help considerably in that situation. An hour after cleaning the cheato, the skimmer cup would be full of that brown slime. 4 months later, cheato is thriving and the brown slime is still present in the display, but the macro seems to be winning the battle. I'm up to 10 hours light time on my Kessil H380. I feel the addition of UV helped me get here.

 

[FartyParty]

A

 

[mopar_1974]

Here is my last test though it was in December

 

[mopar_1974]

The results are so far back im sure it doesn't matter much since then. I've heard good and bad things about Marinepure and saw a bit of an increase of Aluminum so I decided to take that out and try it. I would think I would have plenty of live rock to keep an established tank without it though.

 

[FartyParty]

The results are so far back im sure it doesn't matter much since then. I've heard good and bad things about Marinepure and saw a bit of an increase of Aluminum so I decided to take that out and try it. I would think I would have plenty of live rock to keep an established tank without it though.

I run triton and have a small bucket of broken up marine pure block that replaced my filter sock last month, mostly to prevent bubbles from the drain line. So far I'm not noticing anything strange and I stopped having to change filter socks. My thought was that the marine pure would help keep the weekly Dr Tims doses around longer by giving it an area to live, but i have no way to prove it.