Got Cyano? You bet.

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I'm thinking of dosing h020 but will it hurt my shrimp, snails and clam? I would need to dose 25 ml twice a day for 14 days. Sounds like a lot to me. Don't want to kill my critters.
 
Tidal Gardens
I have a 90 w/ 14 fuge and 10 gal vol sump. I dosed the 1ml:10gal @24hrs for 2 weeks solid. Only thing that showed any response were all zoas closed up for about 30min to 1hr after and opened right back up. Not a snail or crab lost. Unsure of clams as I don't personally have any. All cyano gone, small hair algae gone (not what my concern was as a little bit is ok in my book), and bubble algae gone (again small patch and nothing I was worried about). After the cyano was gone, I do notice cleaner parameters and haven't come back. Just make sure you find the source of nutrience feeding the cyano or the battle will ensue again. Hope this helps.
 
Orphek OR3 reef aquarium LED bar
A manual removal may help as well to speed up their demise.
Before:
image.jpeg
After:
image.jpeg

Those snail shells were already in the mix. Nothing caused by h202.
 
ReeferMaddness843 said:
I have a 90 w/ 14 fuge and 10 gal vol sump. I dosed the 1ml:10gal @24hrs for 2 weeks solid. Only thing that showed any response were all zoas closed up for about 30min to 1hr after and opened right back up. Not a snail or crab lost. Unsure of clams as I don't personally have any. All cyano gone, small hair algae gone (not what my concern was as a little bit is ok in my book), and bubble algae gone (again small patch and nothing I was worried about). After the cyano was gone, I do notice cleaner parameters and haven't come back. Just make sure you find the source of nutrience feeding the cyano or the battle will ensue again. Hope this helps.
Click to expand...
I hope it helps too! Thanks! I will try this along with water changes. My tank is only 4 months old. [emoji846]
 
Deltec
H2O2 will work but the cyano has to be identified first.
The 1ml per 10 gallons is a starting point and correct every 12 hours.
The amount dosed can be increased as needed after the first 5 days to 1ml per 10 gallons. It can even go further under proper guidance.
This will not harm shrimp. The fatalities read are almost 100% due to direct contact with H2O2 or a heavy H2O2 cloud.
It must be mixed or slow dosed to prevent this.
 
How do I identify if it's cyano or something else? I read something a while back on mixing some of the slime in a jar but I can't find it now. I want to make sure it's cyano before I start dosing anything.
 
Top Shelf Aquatics
My system is 245 gallons. No fish are in it yet, just the cuc and feather dusters/clam/shrimp/urchin/corals. How long should it take me to reach the proper point of H2O2?
 
when dosing to try and affect an invader, you hand siphon all the invader out by hard work first, then dose the tank at the recommended rates to the clean tank, not the invaded tank.

If you want to study the effects of a doser on a target you dose the invaded condition (to look at it under a microscope during the treatment etc...if you want your tank fixed, remove the cyano first by siphoning it out, then add the peroxide to the clean tank, to stop growback)

The manual work component is what saves tanks, not the doser, its a tool only.
 
Last edited:
a simpler way to see it is don't allow cyano to be in the tank, clean it out by hand, then do something to the water if you want. this fixes cyano tanks much better than when the keeper doesn't do any physical reset work.

Currently the opposite is happening in your tank... the cyano is there, its being left in its full mass, and something is being added to the water which doesn't export cyano so that may or may not work, and you'll have to add more peroxide for having done it that way.
 
I have removed the cyano thru water changes and physically removing it by hand/turkey baster/fish net, but it keeps coming back. I feed the tank very little since there are no fish in it yet. I use GFO in a reactor and a very good skimmer. No carbon. I dose alk/calcium/kalk. That's it. Metal halides 12" above water 4 hours n the morning and 4 hours when I get home from work in the late day. So what am I doing wrong? New tank syndrome maybe?
 
I don't think so, cyano likes when we blast it with bright white lights for example, even in tanks where it wasn't a prior prob. ive seen new LED lighting changes cause cyano blooms


that and dirty sandbeds if applicable

Check this link out for why you have cyano even when params seem ok...its supposed to be there, our tanks literally exchange cyano with the surrounding world always:

http://reef2reef.com/threads/over-feeding-and-cyano.264418/#post-3155832
 
www.dinkinsaquaticgardens.com
My phosphates and nitrates are both near zero, so I just don't get it. Compost just happens I guess. I will continue doing what I'm doing and start dosing H2O2 slowly.

BTW, I love this forum. I learn something new everyday. Thanks for all your generous help and as always, stay soaking wet.[emoji6]
 
also one last cyano tidbit...they can grab their required nitrogen from the air as it diffuses into our tanks from the atmosphere how amazing is that. they are getting their phosphorous complement from being in a tank that has any proteins whatsoever (any aged marine tank qualifies) even though our P test kits might not detect accurate trace levels...but that nitrogen component they cherry pick right out of the air/ water interface for that part, neat.
 
Sorry for the dumb question but do you mean if I have a fan blowing over the tank it will feed Cyano too?
 
Top Shelf Aquatics
no that's perfectly fine to run fan. we should just hand export them, and in time things balance out just fine as long as there aren't pronounced waste sinks in the tank like too many fish, cruddy sand etc. some people even add competing bacteria products in bottles to battle them, all of this is ok they aren't known tank wreckers just opportunists.
 
One last question, I promise. Would vinegar dosing do the same thing as H2O2 in regards to killing off cyano?
 
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