Got my Triton Results...

TheEngineer

Formerly icecool2
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I got my Triton results this morning. I've been having ongoing issues in my tank that are, so far, unexplained. I've had issues keeping zoas alive and most recently I had a sudden loss of all of my SPS and the retraction of all of my LPS. These results don't seem to indicate anything that looks like a smoking gun to me, but maybe I'm missing something....

The standouts are: high tin, high lithium, no iodine (?!), and low potassium. Advice sought and appreciated!

Triton1.jpg
Triton2.jpg
Triton 3.jpg
 
Potassium is quite a lot lower than it should be, and may be contributing to your issues. It is a macro element after all, it just gets talked about a lot less because it doesn’t seem to get depleted in most systems.

There are several anecdotal reports of high tin and sps issues as well. I, myself, had issues where tin was he only thing slightly off on my icp test and had random stn/rtn. Ever since I corrected the issue I haven’t had trouble. I’m not saying it’s for sure what’s going on with you but it could be.
 
How did you address the high tin levels? I know how to add things, removing them... not so much :)
 
The question is probably going to come up about what additives I'm using...

I dose BRS two-part, that's it. In the past I dosed KNO3 (Spectracide), but haven't in quite a while. I've used Red Slime Remover within the last month, twice. I use Reef Crystals salt but I just won a bucket of Red Sea Pro, so I'm going to switch to that. I was about out of the RC anyway.
 
I agree that the potassium is a substantial concern, and the tin may be as well. :)
Thanks, Randy. I see dozens of potassium supplements out there. Do you recommend one? Also, how in the world do I get rid of the tin? I ran a polypad in there before, but I don't know if that pulls tin.

EDIT: I removed some rusty hose clamps. Could they have been the source?
 
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I ordered cuprisorb after seeing some people saying it removed tin for them. Is there a better option?
 
I ordered cuprisorb after seeing some people saying it removed tin for them. Is there a better option?

I'm not aware of which methods we commonly use can remove tin (or even what form it is taking), but that seems a reasonable method to try.
 
My Triton tin level was 11 on the first test, traced to rusty screws on the return pump. Replaced the pump, added a Poly-Filter to the sump, did my usual 2x5% weekly water changes, and the tin level gradually dropped to 0 over 6 weeks (and has stayed there) as confirmed by followup Triton and ATI tests. Note that I never saw any effect on the livestock that I would definitely say was caused by the elevated tin, but who's to know for sure? I did have a few losses during that time, but other things were going on as well.
 
My Triton tin level was 11 on the first test, traced to rusty screws on the return pump. Replaced the pump, added a Poly-Filter to the sump, did my usual 2x5% weekly water changes, and the tin level gradually dropped to 0 over 6 weeks (and has stayed there) as confirmed by followup Triton and ATI tests. Note that I never saw any effect on the livestock that I would definitely say was caused by the elevated tin, but who's to know for sure? I did have a few losses during that time, but other things were going on as well.
Thanks for sharing. I’m guessing the rusty clamps were to blame. I’ll double check the other equipment to be certain. I had a poly pad in there but took it out. It was the last thing that went in my tank before all of my SPS died.

Wish there was a tin test I could do without sending in another Triton test.
 
The NOW brand is what I have been using for several years. Mix it up with gallon of RO/DI. The Salifert K test kits is easy to use and is accurate enough to get in the 400ppm range.
 

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