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Wow that blaze is looking hot, can we see a colony shot Adam @Battlecorals ? It almost looks like a Monti digi

e866846099b5248e5f4642bf367a68e3.jpg
 
Guys...I have AEFW. :(

I'm pretty sure I know where it came from and it was NOT from BC...just so we're clear on that.

So..the bad news is, any purchasing is on hold for now. The silver lining COULD be...when this is all over I'll have room for new sticks!
 
Wow that blaze is looking hot, can we see a colony shot Adam @Battlecorals ? It almost looks like a Monti digi

e866846099b5248e5f4642bf367a68e3.jpg



the most intense orange coral I have for sure, and without a doubt a classic monti digi. hit it as hard as you can with light, and you will be really happy with what you see.
 
Guys...I have AEFW. :(

I'm pretty sure I know where it came from and it was NOT from BC...just so we're clear on that.

So..the bad news is, any purchasing is on hold for now. The silver lining COULD be...when this is all over I'll have room for new sticks!


That sucks! Not the end of the world though. It's a haul but you can beat them for sure. There's an exhaustive amount of info on dealing with those things on here but if you'd like any info on exactly how I deal with new arrivals often contaminated with a worm or two let me know.
 
That sucks! Not the end of the world though. It's a haul but you can beat them for sure. There's an exhaustive amount of info on dealing with those things on here but if you'd like any info on exactly how I deal with new arrivals often contaminated with a worm or two let me know.
Not to derail the thread but, I've pulled all sps from the display to a QT. Dipped in CoralRX, clipped bases, and glued what i could to new plugs. Plan is to dip every 5 days or so for...6 weeks probably. I need to extinguish a few encrusted bases in the DT yet (probably a bit of epoxy over them) before I can start the clock on AEFW going into starvation mode there. Also planning to add a yellow coris wrasse to the QT, just because it can't hurt. Debating switching to Bayer to dip, but might just stay the course with CoralRX. Started the QT with water from the DT and moved over some biological filtration. Will probably try to do a few gallon waterchange on the QT weekly at minimum, but will probably do waterchanges with NSW from here on.

Any holes in my plan?
 
Not to derail the thread but, I've pulled all sps from the display to a QT. Dipped in CoralRX, clipped bases, and glued what i could to new plugs. Plan is to dip every 5 days or so for...6 weeks probably. I need to extinguish a few encrusted bases in the DT yet (probably a bit of epoxy over them) before I can start the clock on AEFW going into starvation mode there. Also planning to add a yellow coris wrasse to the QT, just because it can't hurt. Debating switching to Bayer to dip, but might just stay the course with CoralRX. Started the QT with water from the DT and moved over some biological filtration. Will probably try to do a few gallon waterchange on the QT weekly at minimum, but will probably do waterchanges with NSW from here on.

Any holes in my plan?


I think id go with Bayer. In all of my experiences coral Rx was extremely harsh on sps at dosages strong enough to actually kill worms. In fact I killed a lot of really nice sps before i was desperate enough to even try bayer, and that was over 5 years ago now. its effective, However I'm obligated let you know that using bayer is at your own risk. More than happy to send over short write up on my actual dip regimen if your interested.
 
I think id go with Bayer. In all of my experiences coral Rx was extremely harsh on sps at dosages strong enough to actually kill worms. In fact I killed a lot of really nice sps before i was desperate enough to even try bayer, and that was over 5 years ago now. its effective, However I'm obligated let you know that using bayer is at your own risk. More than happy to send over short write up on my actual dip regimen if your interested.
I'll PM you.
 
Adam,

I'm sure there are a lot of people who would be interested in your dipping regime.

Please post it to avoid countless PMs.
 
Adam,

I'm sure there are a lot of people who would be interested in your dipping regime.

Please post it to avoid countless PMs.

Sorry I know this isn’t part of the thread but I noticed you have a picture of a mystery wrasse. I just recently bought and it perished after 2 days. It was a pretty small one live aquaria is sending me a lager one and it ships out in a couple days. I was wondering if you had any pointer in successfully acclimating them and keeping them alive
 
Sorry I know this isn’t part of the thread but I noticed you have a picture of a mystery wrasse. I just recently bought and it perished after 2 days. It was a pretty small one live aquaria is sending me a lager one and it ships out in a couple days. I was wondering if you had any pointer in successfully acclimating them and keeping them alive


Hi there,

No worries at all man truly. feel free to post whatever you like. I'll confess I am not as fluent in fish care as I am with coral. my expertise is limited to basic fish care requirements lol , however i do have a separate Fish QT system and use it any time i get new fish. Maybe someone with bit more fish wisdom can chime in on this one for you.
 
Sorry I know this isn’t part of the thread but I noticed you have a picture of a mystery wrasse. I just recently bought and it perished after 2 days. It was a pretty small one live aquaria is sending me a lager one and it ships out in a couple days. I was wondering if you had any pointer in successfully acclimating them and keeping them alive

I'm also no expert in fish care. That being said, I've always found that Mystery Wrasses have fairly standard wrasse care requirements. Regarding acclimation, in addition to the standard practices most people recommend (which are included in a leaflet with all Live Aquaria shipments), make sure you match the quarantine water's salinity to the salinity in the bag. If I remember correctly, for most Live Aquaria shipments it is typically about 24 ppt. Since it is generally advised to only increase 2 ppt of salinity per day, it can be quite stressful to them if you try to quickly transition them to a typical reef tank salinity of 35ppt.

Other general recommendations are to always use Praziquantel (Prazipro) for all wrasses in QT. However, anything that Prazipro can treat would not have killed the wrasse in 2 days. If you decide to treat the wrasse with copper in QT, it is recommended that you very slowly add the copper over 5 - 7 days since quickly increasing copper can negatively affect wrasses.

If you run into problems with the 2nd Mystery wrasse, you should post in the fish care forum.
 
I'm also no expert in fish care. That being said, I've always found that Mystery Wrasses have fairly standard wrasse care requirements. Regarding acclimation, in addition to the standard practices most people recommend (which are included in a leaflet with all Live Aquaria shipments), make sure you match the quarantine water's salinity to the salinity in the bag. If I remember correctly, for most Live Aquaria shipments it is typically about 24 ppt. Since it is generally advised to only increase 2 ppt of salinity per day, it can be quite stressful to them if you try to quickly transition them to a typical reef tank salinity of 35ppt.

Other general recommendations are to always use Praziquantel (Prazipro) for all wrasses in QT. However, anything that Prazipro can treat would not have killed the wrasse in 2 days. If you decide to treat the wrasse with copper in QT, it is recommended that you very slowly add the copper over 5 - 7 days since quickly increasing copper can negatively affect wrasses.

If you run into problems with the 2nd Mystery wrasse, you should post in the fish care forum.


Thanks a lot for chiming in!
 
I'm also no expert in fish care. That being said, I've always found that Mystery Wrasses have fairly standard wrasse care requirements. Regarding acclimation, in addition to the standard practices most people recommend (which are included in a leaflet with all Live Aquaria shipments), make sure you match the quarantine water's salinity to the salinity in the bag. If I remember correctly, for most Live Aquaria shipments it is typically about 24 ppt. Since it is generally advised to only increase 2 ppt of salinity per day, it can be quite stressful to them if you try to quickly transition them to a typical reef tank salinity of 35ppt.

Other general recommendations are to always use Praziquantel (Prazipro) for all wrasses in QT. However, anything that Prazipro can treat would not have killed the wrasse in 2 days. If you decide to treat the wrasse with copper in QT, it is recommended that you very slowly add the copper over 5 - 7 days since quickly increasing copper can negatively affect wrasses.

If you run into problems with the 2nd Mystery wrasse, you should post in the fish care forum.


Thanks a lot for chiming in!
 
If I remember correctly, for most Live Aquaria shipments it is typically about 24 ppt. Since it is generally advised to only increase 2 ppt of salinity per day, it can be quite stressful to them if you try to quickly transition them to a typical reef tank salinity of 35ppt.
+1 on this. Some fish can handle the acclimation to a higher salinity much better than others but I support the 2ppt/day increase. I called Live Aquaria on an order and they expected the fish to come in water that was 1.020. I tested it when the fish arrived and it was 1.014 so I had to lower the salinity in my QT.

Can a fish survive making that kind of jump in salinity? Sure. Will they all? No. Some studies on non-ornamental fish show that they will succumb to osmoregulatory issues in 36 to 48 hours. Symptoms are generally limited to acting lethargic and rapid breathing.
 
I got my first battle box about a week ago. I let Adam know that I wanted a hyperberry and a few other nice acros and gave him my budget. A short time later I received a box full of corals, and I was only expecting like 5 frags at the most! He was more professional than any other coral dealer that I have done business with and really seems to care about his customers. Highly, highly, recommended. Needless to say I will be getting another in the near future. Thank you Battlecorals!!!
 
I got my first battle box about a week ago. I let Adam know that I wanted a hyperberry and a few other nice acros and gave him my budget. A short time later I received a box full of corals, and I was only expecting like 5 frags at the most! He was more professional than any other coral dealer that I have done business with and really seems to care about his customers. Highly, highly, recommended. Needless to say I will be getting another in the near future. Thank you Battlecorals!!!
Let's see these frags!! I really like the pearlberry.
 
I got my first battle box about a week ago. I let Adam know that I wanted a hyperberry and a few other nice acros and gave him my budget. A short time later I received a box full of corals, and I was only expecting like 5 frags at the most! He was more professional than any other coral dealer that I have done business with and really seems to care about his customers. Highly, highly, recommended. Needless to say I will be getting another in the near future. Thank you Battlecorals!!!
Let's see these frags!! I really like the pearlberry :)
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

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