Green hair algae gone wild.

[Mr Llano]

I have a 5 month old tank that I aquascaped with dry Limestone Rock from a quarry. Now in the 5th month the tank has become overrun with green hair algae I have a small fox face, send shifting goby, and some pulsing Xenia in it.

I pressure clean the Rocks before putting them in the tank to remove any particulates or sediments that may have been on them. the Foxface does not seem to be making a dent in the algae.

I have three or four Chestnut snails to Turbo snails and the group of blue legged hermit crabs and nothing seems to put a dent in the algae

any suggestions?

 

[Terri Caton]

Manually remove as much as possible then start treating with Vibrant.

 

[Super Fly]

snails wont eat GHA or anything long haired, only algae that's just started developing. U can manually remove, Melvesreef shows you how using phosphateRX

 

[Xandernfs]

I've used reef flux with great success. But I agree about the manual removal.

 

[Mr Llano]

By the way nitrate, phosphate and ammonia are at 0, ph is spot on, all parameters are where they should be

 

[Mr Llano]

snails wont eat GHA or anything long haired, only algae that's just started developing. U can manually remove, Melvesreef shows you how using phosphateRX

I dont have a phosphate issue

 

[AlexG]

Welcome to R2R.

What size is your aquarium and how is it setup?
Can you share your water parameters Phosphate, Nitrate and any other parameters you are testing for?
Are you using RO/DI water for your aquarium? If so are you using a TDS meter on your RO/DI water?

Hair algae can be pretty common in newer tanks. I would want to know more about your setup before offering a suggestion for your particular issue. In many cases the hair algae will run its course once its nutrient source is depleted. With some manual removal and the right cleanup crew (I recommend urchins) the algae will be gone in time. Once we learn a little more about your system I am sure we can come up with a plan to help you out.

 

[JCrowe86]

Just because the phosphate reading is 0 doesn't mean it's not an issue. It could be consumed by the GHA thus 0 in the water to show up on your test. Which test kits are you using by the way? Anything other than URL Hanna checkers can be very tough to read. You could still be producing too much from feeding or possibly introducing it through water changes (don't know your filtration situation).

 

[Mr Llano]

Welcome to R2R.

What size is your aquarium and how is it setup?
Can you share your water parameters Phosphate, Nitrate and any other parameters you are testing for?
Are you using RO/DI water for your aquarium? If so are you using a TDS meter on your RO/DI water?

Hair algae can be pretty common in newer tanks. I would want to know more about your setup before offering a suggestion for your particular issue. In many cases the hair algae will run its course once its nutrient source is depleted. With some manual removal and the right cleanup crew (I recommend urchins) the algae will be gone in time. Once we learn a little more about your system I am sure we can come up with a plan to help you out.

It is 3 sixty or so gallon tanks plumbed together. Located in the lobby of a high school. I use RO / DO water but no TDS meter.

Nitrate, nitrite, phosphate, and ammonia are all at 0.

I have urchins, blue legged hermits, and bunches of snails. The snails doe and the crabs take their shells

 

[krash7172]

Looks like mine did at 5 mo You'll find lot's of strategies, tips and tricks here to help but I think we all agree that water quality, manual removal, and patience are key. I found that it sticks well to bristle brushes. Filter sock is also a good idea.

I see light in the background. Are they exposed to sunlight?

 

[Drneil]

Phosphate might be reading zero but as mentioned it's the GHA taking it up. Remove by hand and consider phospate export method. Vibrant will help, but the route cause will be phosphates.

Mine was as bad as your photos. I followed the steps and it disappeared. If you pull as much as you can by hand then test phosphate a couple of days later, you'll see it climb.

 

[Leadfooted]

It is 3 sixty or so gallon tanks plumbed together. Located in the lobby of a high school. I use RO / DO water but no TDS meter.

Nitrate, nitrite, phosphate, and ammonia are all at 0.

I have urchins, blue legged hermits, and bunches of snails. The snails doe and the crabs take their shells

Get a Seahare, not only the best at clearing GHA, they're they least discussed. You might need to assist with pulling longer hairs off the rock and also toss in an emerald crab or 3.

 

[♣️Recklessreef♠️]

Had great success with reef flux RX

 

[IslandLifeReef]

It is 3 sixty or so gallon tanks plumbed together. Located in the lobby of a high school. I use RO / DO water but no TDS meter.

Nitrate, nitrite, phosphate, and ammonia are all at 0.

I have urchins, blue legged hermits, and bunches of snails. The snails doe and the crabs take their shells

What tests are you using to measure NO3 and PO4?

You obviously have both NO3 and PO4 in the tank or algae would not grow. Did you cure your rock since you got it from a quarry? The algae may be getting everything it needs from the rock. Who knows what was bound up in it.

 

[Skynyrd Fish]

Take the rocks out and scrub them with a stiff brush in a bucket of tank water. Also clean all the sand. You will need to do some of the rocks weekly for a couple weeks.

Official Sand Rinse and Tank Transfer thread

If you are reading this thread to cure a tank invasion from a link I sent you, we do not need to identify your type of invasion here we do not need you to test anything at anytime regarding nitrate, phosphate etc Above all, we do not need to see a microscope slide picture of your invasion at...

www.reef2reef.com

 

[Mr Llano]

Just because the phosphate reading is 0 doesn't mean it's not an issue. It could be consumed by the GHA thus 0 in the water to show up on your test. Which test kits are you using by the way? Anything other than URL Hanna checkers can be very tough to read. You could still be producing too much from feeding or possibly introducing it through water changes (don't know your filtration situation).

I

Phosphate might be reading zero but as mentioned it's the GHA taking it up. Remove by hand and consider phospate export method. Vibrant will help, but the route cause will be phosphates.

Mine was as bad as your photos. I followed the steps and it disappeared. If you pull as much as you can by hand then test phosphate a couple of days later, you'll see it climb.

Looks like mine did at 5 mo You'll find lot's of strategies, tips and tricks here to help but I think we all agree that water quality, manual removal, and patience are key. I found that it sticks well to bristle brushes. Filter sock is also a good idea.

I see light in the background. Are they exposed to sunlight?

Yes they get sunlight from the main door to the lobby of the school and the rear door to the lobby of the school but I don't think it's much what they do have is the rest lights in the school Obby on pretty much from 6 in the morning till 10 at night is there anything I can do about the light because I think the problem is the light

What tests are you using to measure NO3 and PO4?

You obviously have both NO3 and PO4 in the tank or algae would not grow. Did you cure your rock since you got it from a quarry? The algae may be getting everything it needs from the rock. Who knows what was bound up in it.

I am using the salifert test to do all the testing they were highly recommended.

We did not cure the rock prior to putting it in. Should I remove all of the Rock and cure it and leave the tank just with sand and organisms? We did pressure wash them prior to putting them in to remove debris and as much sediment as possible in hindsight I would have acid wash them like I've seen in some of the BRS TV videos but being a novice and being given this tank and let go run with it that didn't happen