Green Hair algae - help!

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Sonam

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Greetings All,
We are new to the reef tank hobby. We purchased a 3 year old fish only system a year ago. Over a few months we worked on lowering nitrate levels in order to add corals. We were able to get nitrate levels below 10 reliably and acquired several varieties of coral, mushrooms, ricordia, candy canes and colt corals. The tank was kept stable because we gave it a lot of attention and anytime something seemed "off" we worked on correcting it before it got out of control, so problem solving experience is minimal.

We had to leave town on business for 5 months. We had a professional recommended by a local fish store maintain the system. He came by every other week to do water changes (if needed) and clean filters etc. We left detailed instructions for the house sitter for daily tasks.

We returned to find 2 fish had died, several corals were gone, and there is green hair algae all over. There was also tiny hard pellets of something covering the refugium and display glass. Most of the snails, emerald and hermit crabs are also gone (we had a clean up crew.)

Testing the parameters we found this:
salinity 1.027
Nitrate 10
Ammonia <. 025
Kh 9.9
ALK 3.53
Ca 430
Mg 640

The Mg and ALK appear to be way off. I'm guessing (please correct me!) the hard pellets are precipitated calcium.

I started by cleaning all filters and getting the biopellet reactor going again (had clogged with debris and stopped). I was told a water change had been done the day before we came home so have not done another yet.

Clearly the chemistry must also be addressed but I am in over my head.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you for taking the time to read through this.
 
Sorry this company did not take care of your tank. In order to have nuisance algae there has to be excess nutrients in the water. That can be from over feeding, excess phosphates etc. Nuisance algae has to have nutrients to grow. Need to know what your phosphates are and hopefully you are using rodi water with zero tds. Also what lighting are you using? Water changes will help but you need to determine were these nutrients are coming from.
 
I don't have a phosphate test kit but will get one.
We do use RODI water, but the RODI filters look awful so may not have been working the whole time we were gone.
We have Razor LEDs for lighting.
Thank you for your response.
 
I don't have a phosphate test kit but will get one.
We do use RODI water, but the RODI filters look awful so may not have been working the whole time we were gone.
We have Razor LEDs for lighting.
Thank you for your response.
Leds should be okay but I would defiantly change them ro filters.You might want to get a tds tester to check your water. You can get one on ebay cheap.
 
There's definitely an access of phosphate because you have the hair algae. The algae itself will have tons of phosphate stored inside it. You will have to do something to remove the phosphates out if the system. This can be accomplished by using phosphate removing media, such as gfo. It will take a very long time for the gfo to remove large amounts of phosphate. You can also use aluminum oxide as a media as a way to remove phosphate quickly. Also, lanthanum chloride can be used, but this can be a little tricky. Lanthanum chloride would probably work best for you if you could remove the rock and giving it a soak outside of your tank system.

Any method you choose I would encourage you to do the proper research to make sure this is a method you are comfortable with.
 
Yea, ouch, ya got some issues there. But, can be fixed up.
Ammonia needs to be cleared up before you do anything. I'd perform a few water changes in a row, 50% every other day for 3 days, then test, see where you sit, probably there because of the dead fish.
Alk- 7-12dKH, you can dose Baking Soda by the teaspoon to get it there, or do Randals 2 part.
Mag should be between 125-1350 or 1200-1400 take your pick, its kinda easy to hit that target. Either using a Mag suppliment or using magnesium chloride
 
Yea, ouch, ya got some issues there. But, can be fixed up.
Ammonia needs to be cleared up before you do anything. I'd perform a few water changes in a row, 50% every other day for 3 days, then test, see where you sit, probably there because of the dead fish.
Alk- 7-12dKH, you can dose Baking Soda by the teaspoon to get it there, or do Randals 2 part.
Mag should be between 125-1350 or 1200-1400 take your pick, its kinda easy to hit that target. Either using a Mag suppliment or using magnesium chloride
 
Yea, ouch, ya got some issues there. But, can be fixed up.
Ammonia needs to be cleared up before you do anything. I'd perform a few water changes in a row, 50% every other day for 3 days, then test, see where you sit, probably there because of the dead fish.
Alk- 7-12dKH, you can dose Baking Soda by the teaspoon to get it there, or do Randals 2 part.
Mag should be between 125-1350 or 1200-1400 take your pick, its kinda easy to hit that target. Either using a Mag suppliment or using magnesium chloride

They reported [email protected] so they're good there.

You're absolutely correct about the ammonia and mag.

For the mag to get that low the water must not have been changed for a long time. I'm not aware of any salt mix with levels that low. It looks like the person doing the maintenance used a 2 part and completely left the mag out.
 
They reported [email protected] so they're good there.

You're absolutely correct about the ammonia and mag.

For the mag to get that low the water must not have been changed for a long time. I'm not aware of any salt mix with levels that low. It looks like the person doing the maintenance used a 2 part and completely left the mag out.

His KH was 9.9, his ALK is 3.5
 
Thats General Hardness. Most dont go by that number. If you took a reading of 3.5 on your ALK (dKH) then you would be thinking Wow, gotta do something about that.
How doez it translate when his Alk test shows @ 3.5?
 
Its the standard conversion
 

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well, I will let the chemists help with this last part :) I agree with Pete, you don't need a phosphate test to tell you that you have phosphate since you have an abundance of hair algae. I also agree that a couple of large water changes (maybe three days apart) can help replenish your levels that are out of whack. If it were me, I'd take out the rocks and scrub them and also use a little hydrogen peroxide on them outside of the tank and then place back into - I would do this over time and not all at once. I've used 3% hydrogen peroxide and after scrubbing as much as a I could off, I put the peroxide right on the algae (not the corals - you'll have to submerge your corals while doing this or remove them from the rock) wait 10 minutes and then put back in the tank. The algae will slowly fade away. I would then run some phosguard (if you don't have a reactor) or GFO in between your water changes. Definitely get your membranes refreshed before doing any large water changes.

If you put the elbow grease in at the beginning of the fix, it will save hassles in the long run. I know biopellets will work on nitrates but I've not had a lot of success with them reducing phosphates especially since you can assume your levels are high.

I think your dead fish and inverts have probably created the excess nutrients. I'm totally amazed your nitrates are only at 10. Good luck! I'd also ask for a refund from the tank maintenance company because they obviously didn't do something. Take a picture of your tank now before you fix things so you can show what it looked like when you returned.
 
Its the standard conversion

Right thats the ALK conversion (dKH) I dont see kh in there anywhere. From what I understand thats a different reading altogether. But im on my phone and cant link anything.
 
Right thats the ALK conversion (dKH) I dont see kh in there anywhere. From what I understand thats a different reading altogether. But im on my phone and cant link anything.

Yes, so when he stated alk is 3.53 I assumed he is using meq/L. When its converted to dkh it comes to 9.9. Both of these values are on the salifert test kit, and I would bet this was the test being used. I also would be willing to bet the KH value reported is in dkh because both reported values correspond.
 

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Got ya, now we are both on the same page, you were thinking he used meq/l for the one test.
Understood.
 
Thank you everyone for your help! have started adding Mg and ordered filter media for the RODI. I will work on getting up to speed on phosphate control - this is new to me I fear.
Will let folks know how it goes.
Will also contact the company that serviced the tank.
 
Get photos/video.

This is completely unacceptable. I hope you warn others about this company. I would be livid if someone (that I was paying as an "expert," no less!) let my tank get into that condition!! I mean, mine doesn't currently look so great to begin with, but that kind of negligence by a professional should be considered criminal.
 
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Thank you everyone for your help! have started adding Mg and ordered filter media for the RODI. I will work on getting up to speed on phosphate control - this is new to me I fear.
Will let folks know how it goes.
Will also contact the company that serviced the tank.
 
Hi All,

Quick update:
I've installed a phosban reactor and done a water change and the tank seems to be improving. I think my Mg test kit may be off (I followed the instructions even to the point of timing the swirls on a stop watch to be sure it wasn't user error) and even testing freshly mixed salt water the Mg read low. So a new test kit is on my list.
We have some turbo snails in the tank. So far we also still have algae but it does seem to be getting under control. Should I be worried about the snails running out of food?
Thanks to everyone for helping. Will let folks know how the recovery progresses.
 

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