Green Hair Algae Treatments

TroutWithLegs

Community Member
View Badges
Joined
Sep 13, 2018
Messages
93
Reaction score
101
Location
Charleston, SC
What state or country do you live in
South Carolina
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Hey all, I've been having an issue with green hair algae growing in my tank for the past two weeks or so. Really all started when I went away on a quick 2 day vacation. But the algae is starting to take over my tank, and I'm hoping for some guided help with dealing with it.

Goals are to get the growth of it down to a minimum, keep it down, and get it off of my green star polyp mat without killing the gsp.

My main concerns right now are trying to reduce nutrient loads and excess feedings, and reduce the light in the tank without causing problems for the corals.

Using the API test kits, water parameters are;
NH3: 0
NO2: 0
NO3: 40-80ppm
*F: 72.

I am going to pick up a phosphate kit today, but otherwise the chems have been pretty stable for the past few months.

Lights are Current USA Orbit IC's. They turn on at 8 am and off at 8 pm, with colors at R: 75, G: 80, B: 100, W: 80. The side of the tank with less light is definetly growing less algae, but how low or how little light can i actally use. Thanks for the help all.

upload_2019-6-21_11-26-1.jpeg
upload_2019-6-21_11-25-51.jpeg
upload_2019-6-21_11-25-51.jpeg
upload_2019-6-21_11-25-36.jpeg
upload_2019-6-21_11-25-21.jpeg
 
I am currently battling, GHA as well. One thing to be careful of is "false readings" of nutrients in the water. The GHA may have a good portion of nitrate and phosphate already locked up which would give you a lower reading on the test kits.

Best solution is to manually remove as much of it as possible and increase your frequency of water changes until you notice that you are winning the battle.
 
Just started with Vibrance heard it will clear it right up
 
I am currently battling, GHA as well. One thing to be careful of is "false readings" of nutrients in the water. The GHA may have a good portion of nitrate and phosphate already locked up which would give you a lower reading on the test kits.

Best solution is to manually remove as much of it as possible and increase your frequency of water changes until you notice that you are winning the battle.

Exactly that. I would expect either your Po4 will read high since the algae it’s feeding isn’t large enough yet to use up all the available Po4, or really low where the algae is using like said above.

My first line of defense on algae would be CuC. They really help. Then may need to move to dosing or other export methods
 
Hand removal of the algae that is growing on the corals will help.Do this frequently and those polyps should be fine.Since your Nitrates are high I would agree with looking into export methods.
 
I had same issue, started using Dr. Tims' Refresh on Monday and the hair algae is disappearing! I tried the Vibrant, but it just gave me a dino outbreak.
 
Little update. Local reefing group and store recommended I try to physically remove as much as possible and to light starve the tank. I brushed, siphoned and gravelvaced the tank, result was a 10% wc.

Also tested phosphates. According to the API kit it's between 1.0 and 2.0. Those results were the same over two tests, done after the water change. All other parameters have been the same.

Other suggestions were to try fritz algae clean out or dose with Reef Flux. Gonna try doing this without chemicals before I try any of that.
 
I know its been said already, but deal with water issues first before buying products. There is some amazing products on the market but they won't make up for bad tank husbandry. Once parameters are in check you'll find tank life a lot more pleasant.
Best of luck, gha can be a nightmare, manually remove some daily and invest in cuc
 
I have got a decent clean up crew in there right now. About 10 margarita snails, and one (possibly two, haven't seen it in a while) medical turbos. I can't seem to keep shrimp alive worth a dang though. They all molt very quickly and are dead in a week.

The tank is a 65gal with a 10g sump. Any recommendations on a CuC?
 
I have got a decent clean up crew in there right now. About 10 margarita snails, and one (possibly two, haven't seen it in a while) medical turbos. I can't seem to keep shrimp alive worth a dang though. They all molt very quickly and are dead in a week.

The tank is a 65gal with a 10g sump. Any recommendations on a CuC?
Trochus and hermit crabs actually eat algae with a bit of length to it
 
Trochus and hermit crabs actually eat algae with a bit of length to it

I agree- also astrea snails will help control the algae after the long strands are removed.
I was battling GHA in my Refugium and I threw some in there... it’s working so far.

Also agree that test kits aren’t telling you the full story since the GHA is sucking up the nitrogen and phosphate as it grows.

What’s your skimmer and Refugium situation?
 
I don't have a skimmer. I'm working with limited vertical space in my cabinet. My fuge is a 10gal I made myself. I need to add more biomedia to it as well.

Update on day 3 of no light, the area's I scrubbed the gha off of on day 0 are looking better but, there is still lots of hair low in the tank on some of the harder to reach rock. Fish are doing fine. Corals are not happy it seems. GSP and lemon polyps are fully retracted. Zoa's and palys are okay. Chalice is still dying.

1561494082494177948212602245190.jpg
 
How can I get rid of green hair algae on my emerald crab... it's completely covered! I don't have the green hairy algae any where really except on him...help!!
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%
Back
Top