Green hair algae

Marcom12 · Mar 26, 2019

tdlawdo said:
Well it’s the reds and yellow. Just turn them down intensity and way less photo period

I have no way to individually adjust reds and yellows.... Only blue and white the reds are adjusted with the whites

Ebslinger · Mar 26, 2019

Marcom12 said:
Tank is new and would kinda like it to just do it's thing for now.

Just my opinion, but it's a new tank... let it run it's course. Keep up on your water changes and remove as much of it as you can when you do your water changes. It's been a part of every new tank I have started.

Just what I would do...

Marcom12 · Mar 26, 2019

Ebslinger said:
Just my opinion, but it's a new tank... let it run it's course. Keep up on your water changes and remove as much of it as you can when you do your water changes. It's been a part of every new tank I have started.

Just what I would do...

That's what I hoped... My main question was do I need to remove it manually or will it just disappear after awhile to managable levels?

I'd leave it if it would... But if I should remove it I will.

Ebslinger · Mar 26, 2019

I would try to remove most of it... if it dies it will likely release it's nutrients back into the water.

Marcom12 · Mar 26, 2019

Ebslinger said:
I would try to remove most of it... if it dies it will likely release it's nutrients back into the water.

Excellent, thank you.

Ebslinger · Mar 26, 2019

You can leave it and let it die, just may take more time to get rid of...

If it becomes a long term issue, then other steps might be required, but I would start with this.

The first year is the hardest and ugliest.

Marcom12 · Mar 26, 2019

Ebslinger said:
You can leave it and let it die, just may take more time to get rid of...

If it becomes a long term issue, then other steps might be required, but I would start with this.

The first year is the hardest and ugliest.

Yes, I'd like to use as little chemical fixes as possible... For everything.
I'm not going for pristine tank... And prefer a tank that mostly fixes itself when possible, even if it takes longer...

Ebslinger · Mar 26, 2019

A good water change schedule fixes most issues in this hobby.

Assuming your RO/DI water is clean...

Marcom12 · Mar 26, 2019

Ebslinger said:
A good water change schedule fixes most issues in this hobby.

Assuming your RO/DI water is clean...

What would cause it not to be clean? I measure 0 TDS into brute can with lid...

Ebslinger · Mar 26, 2019

Well, Michigan isn't know for the best water quality in the world.

Out of curiosity, have you ever tested your waters pH before it enters your RO/DI unit? (Just my curiosity).

Marcom12 · Mar 26, 2019

Ebslinger said:
Well, Michigan isn't know for the best water quality in the world.

Out of curiosity, have you ever tested your waters pH before it enters your RO/DI unit? (Just my curiosity).

No, but my tank pH is 8.2

Marcom12 · Mar 26, 2019

Marcom12 said:
No, but my tank pH is 8.2

But I may soon now

Ebslinger · Mar 26, 2019

I don't think it matters in the long run. I am just curious. Northern California doesn't have the best water either. It's just a morbid curiosity of mine.

When it comes to RO/DI Randy Holmes -Farley wrote an interesting piece. If you get bored, might be an interesting read.

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2005-05/rhf/index.htm

Peace! and happy reefing!

DenverSaltyFarm · Mar 26, 2019

I only see sand shots with the algae, is the algae growing on the rock as well or only sand? If it’s only the sand then the sand is leaching and causing the bloom. I’ve seen some sand leach silicates which caused tanks to wipe out with Dinos. I run a bare bottom 120g and use white cutting board over the glass bottom which many people are fooled into thinking it’s sand. I can say personally I will never use sand in any tank moving forward. It’s worth looking into for sure and imo a great way to avoid old tank syndrome

Marcom12 · Mar 26, 2019

Mcluvin said:
I only see sand shots with the algae, is the algae growing on the rock as well or only sand? If it’s only the sand then the sand is leaching and causing the bloom. I’ve seen some sand leach silicates which caused tanks to wipe out with Dinos. I run a bare bottom 120g and use white cutting board over the glass bottom which many people are fooled into thinking it’s sand. I can say personally I will never use sand in any tank moving forward. It’s worth looking into for sure and imo a great way to avoid old tank syndrome

Appreciate your input

yes it's mostly just on sand.... A tiny bit elsewhere... But nothing bothersome... I am using aragonite... I thought that was just fine?

As far as bare bottom....I understand the benefits... But right now.... No way... Just my personal sense of how I want it to look.

Mr.Rocc · Mar 28, 2019

tdlawdo said:
Well it’s the reds and yellow. Just turn them down intensity and way less photo period

This is a good bandaid for the fix but you are still missing the main cause of the issue. You both have high nutrients and need to figure out why that is.

Marcom12 · Mar 28, 2019

Mr.Rocc said:
This is a good bandaid for the fix but you are still missing the main cause of the issue. You both have high nutrients and need to figure out why that is.

I agree but unsure as to how to do so... I'm suspecting silicates at the moment but ... Is there a test for them?

tdlawdo · Mar 28, 2019

Mr.Rocc said:
This is a good bandaid for the fix but you are still missing the main cause of the issue. You both have high nutrients and need to figure out why that is.

Actually my nutrients aren’t high at all. Zeros across the board as a matter of fact. I then bought the ULR Phos from Hanna and was able to get a reading as the other Hanna checks in the ppm this one checks ppb and it read 6 ppb. Still super low no nitrate or ites no ammonia, calcium mag all normal. It’s just part of the cycle and this case was due to the lights.