Green star polyp not spreading

[FRANK48]

Can you post a picture of your GSP?

They say you can't kill GSP- but I have. And in my case, I believe it was the light (aquamaxx prism) I was using when I first started.

In my opinion, I don't think your 'low' nutrients is 100% at fault for it not growing and spreading. My system was running at Ultra Ultra Low Nutrients for months and months when I upgraded to AI Hydra 26- and in that time the new GSP I had bought at the store took over the rock it came with, traveled across the sand from it's rock island and grew up onto one of my main rocks.

Last month, I accidentally knocked my mp10 dry side and broke it, and had to temporarily replace it with a small, less powerful pump. My flow set up prior to this happening was an mp10 on the opposite side of the tank pointing to the gsp side, and an Aqamai KPS parallel to the mp10. I took out the mp10, shifted the kps to where the mp10 was, and filled in the original kps location with a small ac Hydor pump. I mention this because for about a week, both gsp 'colonies' closed up. They have since acclimated to the flow and are back to normal.
Could it really be lack of flow, or just different flow pattern in general?

In summary, my anecdotal experience is that GSP likes good sps-type flow and proper reef lights.

I'll post a quick video of the GSP below in a few minutes.

 

[Uncle99]

Salinity is 1.025
Alk is 9
Nitrate 5

I think maybe it’s my light since my other coral aren’t doing so well

How bout phosphate?
Everything needs carbon, nitrogen, and phosphate.
Not saying it’s wrong, just an unknown number.

 

[FRANK48]

How bout phosphate?
Everything needs carbon, nitrogen, and phosphate.
Not saying it’s wrong, just an unknown number.

When I test it says my phosphate it 0

 

[Uncle99]

If actually zero, that’s a bad number which will limit growth.
With your nitrate at 5ppm, your looking for phosphate say 0.05-.1ppm.
If you have any green stuff like GHA then you have phosphate but they would be sucking up the phosphate and when you read your test it shows zero.

 

[FRANK48]

If actually zero, that’s a bad number which will limit growth.
With your nitrate at 5ppm, your looking for phosphate say 0.05-.1ppm.
If you have any green stuff like GHA then you have phosphate but they would be sucking up the phosphate and when you read your test it shows zero.

I do have GHA what should I do?

 

[Uncle99]

If you have GHA then it’s likely your system is newer and phosphate to high.
Reduce phosphate with GFO, increase wAter changes, turn white intensity down, shorten lighting period, scrub and remove as much as possible, maybe consider Vibrant.

 

[FRANK48]

If you have GHA then it’s likely your system is newer and phosphate to high.
Reduce phosphate with GFO, increase wAter changes, turn white intensity down, shorten lighting period, scrub and remove as much as possible, maybe consider Vibrant.

What is GFO?

 

[Uncle99]

A resin like Rowaphos, run in a reactor, or mesh bag in flow, in which the phosphate binds itself to the resin and is removed from the water column.

Like most saltwater parameters, your looking to keep them in the “Goldilocks” zone, each one has its range low to high.

when we talk nutrients, this is food for corals, too much, they brownout, too little they pale and Polyp extension is minimal.

Just right and they colour up and maximize polyp extension.

while there are tons of ways to manage nutrients, I use Nopox to lower nitrates, Rowaphos to lower phosphate.

I also use Brightwell ne-nitro and Neophos when my nutrients need a bump.

Consistency is the key, does not matter if your 5ppm or 20ppm and 0.05ppm or .15ppm phosphate but if you get out of these ranges for any length of time, pest algae’s mostly Dinos and GHA can thrive and grow with the excess, or unbalanced nutrients.

While I dont “chase” numbers, I do weekly tests of all 8 major parameters to ensure they remain in the ranges.

Once I put everything in the ranges and was able to keep them there, week after week, all green algae disappeared on its own with a little help from my toothbrush and Vibrant.

 

[FRANK48]

A resin like Rowaphos, run in a reactor, or mesh bag in flow, in which the phosphate binds itself to the resin and is removed from the water column.

Like most saltwater parameters, your looking to keep them in the “Goldilocks” zone, each one has its range low to high.

when we talk nutrients, this is food for corals, too much, they brownout, too little they pale and Polyp extension is minimal.

Just right and they colour up and maximize polyp extension.

while there are tons of ways to manage nutrients, I use Nopox to lower nitrates, Rowaphos to lower phosphate.

I also use Brightwell ne-nitro and Neophos when my nutrients need a bump.

Consistency is the key, does not matter if your 5ppm or 20ppm and 0.05ppm or .15ppm phosphate but if you get out of these ranges for any length of time, pest algae’s mostly Dinos and GHA can thrive and grow with the excess, or unbalanced nutrients.

While I dont “chase” numbers, I do weekly tests of all 8 major parameters to ensure they remain in the ranges.

Once I put everything in the ranges and was able to keep them there, week after week, all green algae disappeared on its own with a little help from my toothbrush and Vibrant.

Thank you