Green water, do not know what to do

@hailey1423 rodi = reverse osmosis deionized water …

looks to be a algae bloom which can be caused from the water source depending what you’re using for water changes .

how much do you feed ?
What are you testing nitrates and phosphates with ?

by .25 phosphates I can assume you’re using api kit ?
Cal and mag being as high as they are ?
What salt are you using ?
How are you measuring salinity ?

algae bloom … id recommend lights off . Make sure you’re getting oxygen via skimmer , surface aeration etc .
Lights off will help as long as you don’t have corals that require lights .
but it will only mask the issue . Once the lights come back on , so will the green water .
 
wow.
First thing to do before making changes etc is to determine cause. No sense throwing things in or spending money if you cant stop what is causing this.
By chance , is your tank at or near a window??
Excess light cause the green water also known as algae bloom to form and thrive. It can be a nearby window, White light intensity very high, overfeeding or light on too long.
A clean filter = Clean tank. What filter method are you using and how are you maintaining it?
Are you using RODI water or tap water from the faucet ?


How is your water flow. If weak, dissolve organics can easily form and create outbreak.
Make sure the ammonia, nitrate and phosphate levels aren’t too high in the aquarium. If youre using API test kits, you may be getting false readings and ammonia higher than shown. Assure the water receives enough air with airstone during the bloom as blooms can consume O2.
You can also add liquid bacteria like Bacter 7 which will help digest waste.
not near a window, we’re using a hob filter and using soften tap water with prime. Water flow is high, running 2 hob filters right now. Not worried about high waste as I have 1 fish and 1 shrimp
 
@hailey1423 rodi = reverse osmosis deionized water …

looks to be a algae bloom which can be caused from the water source depending what you’re using for water changes .

how much do you feed ?
What are you testing nitrates and phosphates with ?

by .25 phosphates I can assume you’re using api kit ?
Cal and mag being as high as they are ?
What salt are you using ?
How are you measuring salinity ?

algae bloom … id recommend lights off . Make sure you’re getting oxygen via skimmer , surface aeration etc .
Lights off will help as long as you don’t have corals that require lights .
but it will only mask the issue . Once the lights come back on , so will the green water .
I feed pellets and the occasional mysis shrimp. I’m using vibrant sea, and check salinity using a hydrometer
 
not near a window, we’re using a hob filter and using soften tap water with prime. Water flow is high, running 2 hob filters right now. Not worried about high waste as I have 1 fish and 1 shrimp
Your issue is likely lack of biological filtration, water movement, type of water which supports algae and likely high in phosphate
Prime will not have effect on algae or do much for water quality.
What light(s) are you using?
 
Get a atc salinity refractometer.
Maybe a small powered.
Hang on back skimmer.

U can keep up with the vibrant or stop.
Up to you.

I don't know how many gallons your display is but I'm also gonna say your gonna want a ro/di water filtration unit to keep TDS down in the tap water.

A green machine uv filter will clear it up or run a bag of carbon. Charcoal. Activated carbon such as chemi pure elite or wallmart chunky stuff just rinse the wallmart fish carbon good.
Hths
D
 
Your issue is likely lack of biological filtration, water movement, type of water which supports algae and likely high in phosphate
Prime will not have effect on algae or do much for water quality.
What light(s) are you using?
Your issue is likely lack of biological filtration, water movement, type of water which supports algae and likely high in phosphate
Prime will not have effect on algae or do much for water quality.
What light(s) are you using?
using Aqua Knight V2
 
There was recently another post where water softener before or after rodi unit but to know there is some sort of salt . Most likely similar to Epson salt ( magnesium sulphate ) this would explain the extremely high magnesium and calcium

I’d bet It also has something to do with the green water …

a quick google search . Most are made with sodium chloride but depends on manufacturer . Some use potassium chloride .
I’d try getting away from using softened water and prime …..

You’re adding far too much into the tank that you can’t control .

as far as testing … a swing arm hydrometer if that’s what you’re referring to is not accurate and can give huge differences .
 
Well I have a 40 gallon and use two 50 gallon hob fluvals with a uv and my tank is young also (1 year)

the reason I got a uv sterilizer is one day I was at work and my power went out. The night before I dosed some phyto so when the filter spit it back out it made my tank swamp green. Within a week it was almost crystal.

long story short, uv sterilizer works with hob and canister

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Meant to put this one
 
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By chance …
Do you know the ingredient or softener brand you use ?

knowing what’s in it . Can possibly point at what’s in it . And what you don’t want in your tank.
 
I would say get a Green Killing Machine Sterilizer and a cheap 4 stage RODI system. I had similar issues when I got started (not quite that bad) but those 2 things solved my problem. You could likely solve your problem for just a little over $100. Also, the Macro M-50 protein skimmer works pretty well for a HOB skimmer and it is cheap. Loud but cheap. Hope this helps a little.
 

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