Green water

[marlzz]

I have a 20 gallon reef. i have just gotten back from vacation in hawaii and when i was gone everything turned green! The water is super green and i’m not sure how to fix this quickly because it seems like my rabbitfish is stressed over it. Any suggestions?

 

[Bucs20fan]

I have a 20 gallon reef. i have just gotten back from vacation in hawaii and when i was gone everything turned green! The water is super green and i’m not sure how to fix this quickly because it seems like my rabbitfish is stressed over it. Any suggestions?

First things first. WATER CHANGE.

 

[marlzz]

First things first. WATER CHANGE.

In the process right now. i changed the water 3 days ago and dosed turbo start.. the guy at the fish store suggested it for the algae and it worked in the past but not so much right now.

 

[Bucs20fan]

In the process right now. i changed the water 3 days ago and dosed turbo start.. the guy at the fish store suggested it for the algae and it worked in the past but not so much right now.

Water changes and if you can afford it, buy a green killing machine, its an AIO UV sterilizer. They usually run 60-100 dollars and can be found at petco.

 

[marlzz]

Water changes and if you can afford it, buy a green killing machine, its an AIO UV sterilizer. They usually run 60-100 dollars and can be found at petco.

What % of water should i remove?

 

[vetteguy53081]

I have a 20 gallon reef. i have just gotten back from vacation in hawaii and when i was gone everything turned green! The water is super green and i’m not sure how to fix this quickly because it seems like my rabbitfish is stressed over it. Any suggestions?

Pics speak a thousand words as this is both surface/film algae and algae bloom. The bedding itself appears to have been dominated with algae. Some questions below in Bold. . . . .
The film algae itself is likely caused by Bright white intensity and a few suspects listed below. This will take a few days to defeat but some items to address are :
Filtration : I can assume you have a Non-reef ready tank and are using basic filtration with use of power filter? The issue with using power filter is that it is your primary source of filtration which is mechanical and you want to have mechanical , biological and chemical to mange proper water quality. The power filter will polish water and trap particles via the cartridge.
Chemical is what traps and breaks down chemical compounds such as feces and uneaten food often accomplished carbon and GFO
Biological is what utilizes the natural process of biological filtration such as use of ceramic nuggets, bio blocks, and microscopic bacteria surfaces.
You are lacking some forms of necessary filtration. A hang on back refugium, even a hang on skimmer such as Ice cap K1or K2 series will work flawlessly and help with overall waste removal.

Lighting: This looks like it may be a basic strip light but what light are you actually using ? Is it one in which you are able to adjust intensities? I believe its a marineland with an off/on switch and you will have to turn off the white for 3 days

Water: Are you using RODI water or tap water from the faucet ?

Additional light: Is this tank by chance at or near a window?

Phosphate: How are you testing phosphate? Normally with this level of algae, you will have a level of phosphate that is elevated- Not zero


Green killing machine is the least effective on the market and while a UV unit generally helps, understand that a UV unit will address free floating organisms- Which what passes through the channel and radiation bulb.

 

[marlzz]

Pics speak a thousand words as this is both surface/film algae and algae bloom. The bedding itself appears to have been dominated with algae. Some questions below in Bold. . . . .
The film algae itself is likely caused by Bright white intensity and a few suspects listed below. This will take a few days to defeat but some items to address are :
Filtration : I can assume you have a Non-reef ready tank and are using basic filtration with use of power filter? The issue with using power filter is that it is your primary source of filtration which is mechanical and you want to have mechanical , biological and chemical to mange proper water quality. The power filter will polish water and trap particles via the cartridge.
Chemical is what traps and breaks down chemical compounds such as feces and uneaten food often accomplished carbon and GFO
Biological is what utilizes the natural process of biological filtration such as use of ceramic nuggets, bio blocks, and microscopic bacteria surfaces.
You are lacking some forms of necessary filtration. A hang on back refugium, even a hang on skimmer such as Ice cap K1or K2 series will work flawlessly and help with overall waste removal.

Lighting: This looks like it may be a basic strip light but what light are you actually using ? Is it one in which you are able to adjust intensities? I believe its a marineland with an off/on switch and you will have to turn off the white for 3 days

Water: Are you using RODI water or tap water from the faucet ?

Additional light: Is this tank by chance at or near a window?

Phosphate: How are you testing phosphate? Normally with this level of algae, you will have a level of phosphate that is elevated- Not zero


Green killing machine is the least effective on the market and while a UV unit generally helps, understand that a UV unit will address free floating organisms- Which what passes through the channel and radiation bulb.

i used to have a 75 gallon “reef” but by reef i mean i had a few frags. the light i’m using currently is a coral life. My current filter is an aqua clear and before i left (about 2 weeks ago) i had switched out the carbon for a new one. My tank is near a window as well which i assumed was why the water got so much algae but it’s very excessive. i use API test kits. And i use faucet water with prime to mix up new water but it hasn’t given me this problem in the past. I can adjust the lights with the coral life. Thank you i truly appreciate this information.

 

[vetteguy53081]

i used to have a 75 gallon “reef” but by reef i mean i had a few frags. the light i’m using currently is a coral life. My current filter is an aqua clear and before i left (about 2 weeks ago) i had switched out the carbon for a new one. My tank is near a window as well which i assumed was why the water got so much algae but it’s very excessive. i use API test kits. And i use faucet water with prime to mix up new water but it hasn’t given me this problem in the past. I can adjust the lights with the coral life. Thank you i truly appreciate this information.

Carbon will help minimally. Second issue I see is your test kit- Your readings are likely higher than they display and they are well known for false readings. I suggest as I do with these kits to take a water sample to a store that does NOT use Api kits and have them test your ammonia and nitrates and compare readings- then you'll know where your levels truly are at
I will never trust a $7 badge or $25 master kit to sustain hundreds of dollars in livestock.
As for window and was my suspect- The window is your issue with entire bloom. The power of UV is strong and will penetrate shades, blinds and curtains. Get yourself a sheet of construction paper from walmart stationery section and place on the side of glass that faces window and you will see a drastic reduction in days.
Believe it ir not, Tap water is making matters worse. It contains Phosphates.
Its NOT worth it. With so many sales on RODI units- worth the now small investment.
For starters, the amount of Alk in tap water can potentially double this number easily and affect CA and PH not to mention content of heavy metals, chloramine, polluants. flouride and other elements not contained in sea water. tap water also offers no ph buffering and note many areas have copper in their taop water which you do not want in your system. Next will be phosphates in water which will cause further issues.
As you can see - Risk is the issue

 

[marlzz]

Is there a way i can boil tap water to make it safe in the mean time? Would closing the blinds also help this? Do i change my bio media or just clean it? i have so many questions and i truly just want the best for my fish

 

[snorklr]

since you just got back...perhaps whoever you left in charge was overfeeding the tank which would add extra nutrients for the algae to feed on?...looks like you have a bare minimum type of setup that would require lots of water changes to try to keep up with what your setup lacks....boiling tap water won't accomplish anything....tapwater varies greatly all over the world and depending where its sourced from can contain any number of minerals and contaminants that are considered safe for you to drink but arent good for your tank inhabitants...including chlorine or chloramine used by local water companies to try to kill harmful bacteria...topping off evaporated tank water with tapwater can cause these chemicals to become more concentrated over time and cause more problems...so at the very least you could top off with distilled water...buying pre mixed saltwater or ro/di water at a local fish store is another alternative but in the long run you're better off making this stuff yourself as some stores can have issues too