Ground up Build...Sump Design

[AJP279]

Ok, I started to design and build my Sump; but like I said...its been a while. My 210 gallon Aqueon Tank should be here Tuesday, but it has no bells and or whistles: Floor, two side, front, and back. That said, I had a choice to either drill the tank, or use an overflow box. I chose the CPR Aquatic C150, and want to run pvc pipe to and from a sump/refugium.

So, 210 gallon tank...through a wall...to a 55 gallon Rubbermaid sump/refugium...and back again.

The tank is in my living room, and the sump is in my office...separated by a wall. I will use a 6x9 plumbers access panel on each side of the hole...for appearances; although I don't suspect people will be able to see it. My thoughts are 1" pvc both ways.

I have drawn a very basic idea...but was wondering if you had any suggestions.

 

[Goodair]

Look into bean/herbie overflow for quieter/more reliable overflows (vs a single overflow drain). Usually pipe diameter will depend on how many gph you are pushing with your overflow/return. Is there a reason you chose not to drill? The one you chose is easier to setup but worse long-term.

As for your return, you want a union thats easy to access close to the pump for when you need to remove/adjust it.

If your looking not to spend alot of money on a sump, you can buy a used tank or a one on sale and build it yourself. It might not look as clean but its fairly easy to do.

 

[AJP279]

Look into bean/herbie overflow for quieter/more reliable overflows (vs a single overflow drain). Usually pipe diameter will depend on how many gph you are pushing with your overflow/return. Is there a reason you chose not to drill?

As for your return, you want a union thats easy to access close to the pump for when you need to remove/adjust it.

If your looking not to spend alot of money on a sump, you can buy a used tank or a one on sale and build it yourself. It might not look as clean but its fairly easy to do.

Roger that...Union is added.

As for GPH...Im not sure what an open 1" pvc will push...in gph that is. That's the reason I added the gate, and am looking at pumps now like the life guard 4000.

 

[Goodair]

What is your overflow box rated for. Also what is your pump pushing after headloss (How high your retirn is from the actual pump + how many fittings you use). If you haven't picked on yet, I cant really recommend a brand.
BRS recomends 3-5x your tank size for gph so a 210gal display tank needs 600 to 1000gph. Look at the headloss chart for the pump and see if it falls in that range.

 

[AJP279]

What is your overflow box rated for. Also what is your pump pushing after headloss (How high your retirn is from the actual pump + how many fittings you use). If you haven't picked on yet, I cant really recommend a brand.
BRS recomends 3-5x your tank size for gph so a 210gal display tank needs 600 to 1000gph. Look at the headloss chart for the pump and see if it falls in that range.

I just saw a post were a member gave a general rule of thumb for 900 GPH for 1" gravity fed GPH. the return pump...is 1017 GPH. I suspect there will be less than 10' of pvc pipe.

 

[Goodair]

For the range your in, 1" pvc is fine.
With short horizontol distances, you dont get much headloss from that. Most of it will come from the elbows and how high your pump is from the return.

For example :the nozzle of the return pipe on mine is about 4' higher than my pump + 5 - 90 degree elbows, so a 1000gph pump pushes 600gph (made up number). There was some post that gave a estimate on how much a elbow loses which I'll try to find. There are formulas for this but its not really necessary since your not gonna get what you calculate, especially as the pump gets older .

 

[lapin]

If you want maximum flow try to use 45's instead of 90's where you can.

 

[Goodair]

http://www.reefcentral.com/index.php/head-loss-calculator

We know what range you want your gph to be in. Use this after you got an idea how to plumb your return with 1" schedule 40 pvc.

If you want maximum flow try to use 45's instead of 90's where you can.

At least 1 union near the pump and this is true. 45s are better than 90s, but dont connect 2 45s for a single 90.
If you can angle your return to use 2 -45s instead of 2- 90s, it will be better but do not turn 2 -90s in 4- 45s

Once you know your flow with the given pump, you can size your overflow

 

[lapin]

Ya thats what I meant but my splaning is lacking.

 

[Goodair]

If your going through a wall, you might want more unions just incase you need to disassemble the plumbing for any reason. Its a lil more work but you wont kick yourself down the road because you never know!

 

[litenyaup]

I would go bigger on the overflow side so you can add more return flow without worrying about display overflowing. If I could change one 5ing on my tank is that i would have drilled for a bigger overflow. I have a 190 gal display and overflow is drilled for a 1 1/2” bulkhead.....wish I would have gone 2” or two 1 1/2”. Y return is a 1” and pushes more than enough water back into the display.

 

[AJP279]

I would go bigger on the overflow side so you can add more return flow without worrying about display overflowing. If I could change one 5ing on my tank is that i would have drilled for a bigger overflow. I have a 190 gal display and overflow is drilled for a 1 1/2” bulkhead.....wish I would have gone 2” or two 1 1/2”. Y return is a 1” and pushes more than enough water back into the display.

I'm going to try and make it as strait as possible. Unfortunately, i ordered the pump before asking the question, and while it pushes just over 1000 GPH, it's not the pump which will be there long term. I think the one i want is called the Vortech M1, and eventually it will be on the tank. That said, starting a reef tank...from ground up...is a financial challenge...so when I can I save what I can. However there are some components I don't think a hobbyist can...sacrifice...so I paid top dollar for the 5 Kessil 360 WE Blue Tuna's.

Thanks for the help.

Aaron

 

[AJP279]

I'm going to try and make it as strait as possible. Unfortunately, i ordered the pump before asking the question, and while it pushes just over 1000 GPH, it's not the pump which will be there long term. I think the one i want is called the Vortech M1, and eventually it will be on the tank. That said, starting a reef tank...from ground up...is a financial challenge...so when I can I save what I can. However there are some components I don't think a hobbyist can...sacrifice...so I paid top dollar for the 5 Kessil 360 WE Blue Tuna's.

Thanks for the help.

Aaron

No edit button on here...grrrrr.

 

[Goodair]

http://www.lifegardaquatics.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/Q1-AQUARIUM-Lit.pdf

If you look at the model you mentioned, and your sump is at the floor or a couple feet above it, this pump should be ok.

Make sure to drill some holes at your return end to stop a siphon if you lose power. If your set on using the CPR Aquatic C150, look into if your sump can hold the extra water it will drain before its siphon is broken aswell!
Other than that good luck man!

 

[AJP279]

http://www.lifegardaquatics.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/Q1-AQUARIUM-Lit.pdf

If you look at the model you mentioned, and your sump is at the floor or a couple feet above it, this pump should be ok.

Make sure to drill some holes at your return end to stop a siphon if you lose power. If your set on using the CPR Aquatic C150, look into if your sump can hold the extra water it will drain before its siphon is broken aswell!
Other than that good luck man!

Ok, the block and plywood top are no in my office, with the sump. I had no intentions of changing that set up, but found the solid wood top, and metal frame at home depot...with the exact length and width requirements 72x24.

 

[Goodair]

Your taking the wheels off?

 

[AJP279]

Your taking the wheels off?

Yes, March 10th, 2019 is the setup date...to include: Two different kinds of substrate, 20 lbs. pink fuji (pool....poured into a rubbermaid cake style pan, which is hidden and surrounded by the other substrate) surrounded by 160 lbs tropic eden; 160 pounds live rock3/4" lock line; hydol Seltz D 2400 (sump pump replacement); and wye 3k wave makers (x2). This is obviously in addition to what I already have; its just completing the set up...minus some fish to start the process. The purpose of the sand pool is to add a little diversity to the tank...not just stuck with one kind of substrate, and some of the tank occupants may prefer this to the tropic eden. In addition, it may create an interesting effect when the sand pool is surrounded by overhanging live rock; the effect im after is the sand pool would be in the entrance to a large cave...but we will see how it turns out. When I'm done, I will have almost exactly $5,000.00 in the tank build, and only need to add the fish...