Flippers4pups
Fins up since 1993
Mars aquas
Swapped the 3500k's for 14000k's and 7500k's for 20000k's on all three units!
Way more crisp white spectrum. Me like! (Hopefully the corals will too)
Guess what I've been doing!
- Thread starter Flippers4pups
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Mars aquas
Swapped the 3500k's for 14000k's and 7500k's for 20000k's on all three units!
Way more crisp white spectrum. Me like! (Hopefully the corals will too)
Hi.
I did the same: 12000k and 20000k, but I kept 4 3500k.
I also took out the lens and diminished the height from water level : now at 6''. What a difference.
One question if you don't mind: what is the power of your welding iron?
Didn't you have any trouble unwelding? Because the led bins are directly connected to the dissipative plate and so the heat of the welding iron disperses?
Thanks.
I did the same: 12000k and 20000k, but I kept 4 3500k.
I also took out the lens and diminished the height from water level : now at 6''. What a difference.
One question if you don't mind: what is the power of your welding iron?
Didn't you have any trouble unwelding? Because the led bins are directly connected to the dissipative plate and so the heat of the welding iron disperses?
Thanks.
Flippers4pups
Fins up since 1993
Sorry I've been cleaning up and adjusting the intensity of the lights.
I kept only two 3500k's per unit and removed all the lenses. I still have them at 13" above water line, but may lower them over the course of next week slowly.
Desoldering the old diodes was a pain at first, but I learned a trick. I took my 60/40 rosin core solder and added a little to each diode old solder before attempting to remove the diode. This mixed with the old solder and softened it as I applied heat. They came off like butter after that!
I also had to learn that the new diodes had only a small mark on the negative side. Once I had that down, making sure proper polarity was a breeze.
The soldering iron I used only has 25watts and heats up to 750f. Like I said, it wouldn't touch the old solder till I mixed the rosin core solder with it. I did have one new diode DOA and had to remove it and replace it with another. Epistar brand.
Thanks.
Eventually I used the same trick you used, it works that way. I also added a little thermal mass beneath the bins for better heat dispersion (I used the same people use for CPU in PCs) , but probably is not that necessary.
Without lenses, you should consider lower your fixtures to 8'' or 6'' as a test, despite as you have multiple fixtures they will overlap from each other and so will help to upper the PAR at each point. In my case I have only one.
Eventually I used the same trick you used, it works that way. I also added a little thermal mass beneath the bins for better heat dispersion (I used the same people use for CPU in PCs) , but probably is not that necessary.
Without lenses, you should consider lower your fixtures to 8'' or 6'' as a test, despite as you have multiple fixtures they will overlap from each other and so will help to upper the PAR at each point. In my case I have only one.
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So it's up and on the tank?
Flippers4pups
Fins up since 1993
Flippers4pups
Fins up since 1993
Don't have a tank shot yet, lights are out, but I did take this picture for the Euphyllia thread before lights out. I'll take one tomorrow, but I really need some gel filters for my iPhone!
