Halides into Ink Bird thermostat

[bobnicaragua]

I'm concerned that if my AC ever goes out in the Texas summer, the Halides will rapidly overheat the tank.

I'm thinking about setting an ink bird on 83 degrees and plugging the Halides into the controller plug.

Anyone see any issues with this?

 

[A. grandis]

I though about that. All we need to know is if the inkbird you choose is compatible with the wattage going to the halide system. This is one of the inexpensive solutions people could use to avoid problems with chillers, for example.

 

[Sean Clark]

+1 for that.
As long as the controller is rated higher than the lights total combined wattage it will work just fine.

 

[bobnicaragua]

It looks like the ink bird is good for up to 1,200 watts. That works!

 

[nereefpat]

Or have the inkbird kick on some fans instead of turning lights off.

 

[Eagle_Steve]

If it was me, I would go with a Ranco for this application.

It would worry me to leave an inkbird in an active state with that many watts running through it. From my understanding they are not really rated for continuous load like that. Ranco is used in industrial applications and does have a continuous load rating.

@jda may be able to provide some insight as well, since his very experienced with halides and has used them for many years.

 

[Reef.]

Not sure it’s a good idea, I would look for a better solution.
If the tank is just slightly over the temp you set, you could have the light turning off and on multiple times in short succession, which could blow the light and would also likely cause the fish distress.

 

[jda]

I have not used any modern inkbirds - the early ones were so terrible that I just stuck with Rancos that never let me down. Maybe a new inkbird is better, but I don't know. You could use a Ranco like this... set it high and have it on a timer with the lights. I don't really see a downside. This will be lots of wattage and on all of the time, so would go industrial over hobby grade for this.

When my tanks get hot from Halides, they take an hour or two to cool back down, which is a good thing for me in such a dry climate where heating costs so much. I would not worry about a short cycle too much. Besides, the ballasts won't allow too short of a cycle.

In all honesty, if your AC goes out, you are going to have a few more days than just that first one. If this happens, fan over the tank that comes on when the halides come on was able to get me by in Missouri with the 100 degree days and 100% humdity. Don't get cute and wait until the tank starts to warm up since you will already be behind. Some would change their light schedule to run more into the night in the summer like 6:00 to 2 AM the next day when it was cooler - the tank did not mind.

 

[bobnicaragua]

I have 2 rows T5 and 2 rows orphek bars along with 3 250 watt halides. I always run fans in the summer.

The tank hits 81 or 82 with the house at 72-73 degrees. If the AC goes out, I just won't run the halides. I just want a failsafe incase I'm not around. Will look into Ranco.

 

[xtian]

A used apex jr will do what you need and won’t break the bank.

 

[N-A-S-O]

I did that for many years with a Ranco which is a similar type controller. Works perfectly

 

[bobnicaragua]

Just ordered a Ranco. Going to waterproof the probe with silicone or flex seal spray.

 

[bobnicaragua]

All set up, thanks for the suggestion!

 

[A. grandis]

All set up, thanks for the suggestion!

Nice! Was model is it?
How much was it?
Would be nice to have the link here for further reference.

 

[bobnicaragua]

RANCO ETC-111000

I paid about $60 and watched a youtube video to learn how to wire it. It's around $100 prewired.

 

[A. grandis]

RANCO ETC-111000

I paid about $60 and watched a youtube video to learn how to wire it. It's around $100 prewired.

Thanks, @bobnicaragua.

 

[superedge88]

If you're worried about short cycling just set the temperature differential to two or 3 degrees on the ranco or inkbird to avoid this, simple as that.