Hammer coral thinning out

[ello42]

Hi guys i was thinking what would be the reason for this happening to the hammer the only thing i did was a 20% water change on saterday thats all. Dont worry about the white rocks in the picture i changed rocks a month ago because the old rock leached heavy nutrients

Params
Ca 510
Mg 1450
Kh 9.5
Po4 0.5
No3 3
Stron 9
Pot 400
Ph 8.2
Temp 26c

First pic is how it should be and the second pic is the thin coral any advise would be appreciated.

 

[Osaurus]

He looks happy to me (I don't see any dead heads). The tentacles look a bit more extended in photo 2, which in my experience is an indicator of a happy/healthy euphyllia. Lighting, time of day, flow, pests, other creatures disturbing it will all play a role in how extended the tentacles are. If you start seeing excessive amounts of retraction (day and night), then I'd be worried. Good luck!

 

[ello42]

He looks happy to me (I don't see any dead heads). The tentacles look a bit more extended in photo 2, which in my experience is an indicator of a happy/healthy euphyllia. Lighting, time of day, flow, pests, other creatures disturbing it will all play a role in how extended the tentacles are. If you start seeing excessive amounts of retraction (day and night), then I'd be worried. Good luck!

No pests only pods in the tank light cycle is 10 hours which 7 ours is blue+voiltet combo and 3 hours blue+white combo my frogspawn,gsp,montipora,zoas and turbinaria all was closed most of sunday not sure why

 

[homer1475]

Low flow Vs. a bit heavier flow.

All my hammers look like your top pic(nice a full and fluffy), but the couple that are a bit higher up in the flow, have the long stringy look to them. They certainly aren't "thinning", just that the tentacles are longer giving it that thinning look.

 

[ello42]

Low flow Vs. a bit heavier flow.

All my hammers look like your top pic(nice a full and fluffy), but the couple that are a bit higher up in the flow, have the long stringy look to them. They certainly aren't "thinning", just that the tentacles are longer giving it that thinning look.

Thanks noted

 

[Osaurus]

No pests only pods in the tank light cycle is 10 hours which 7 ours is blue+voiltet combo and 3 hours blue+white combo my frogspawn,gsp,montipora,zoas and turbinaria all was closed most of sunday not sure why

I know you mentioned that you performed a water change on Saturday. Did you make sure that your new water had the same temp and salinity as the tank? Everything else seems good. It's hard to troubleshoot these finicky creatures some times - there are many variables to consider.

 

[ello42]

I know you mentioned that you performed a water change on Saturday. Did you make sure that your new water had the same temp and salinity as the tank? Everything else seems good. It's hard to troubleshoot these finicky creatures some times - there are many variables to consider.

Ooooh dang salinity is the same but i didnt heat the water [emoji79] to the same temp it could be that because it was room temp and i make 7gallons at a time and use half and keep the other half for the next maintanance i gues i should have done that seeing it is autum here now

 

[homer1475]

No need to heat your WC water. In fact heated water will read differently on your refractometer Vs. cold.

Only time you should heat your water is if it's a significant drop in temp when you do a WC(significant as in 10 degrees or more). I change 10G in an 80G system and my temps only drop 2 degrees for about 2 minutes. Corals are a lot hardier then we give them credit for.

 

[ello42]

No need to heat your WC water. In fact heated water will read differently on your refractometer Vs. cold.

Only time you should heat your water is if it's a significant drop in temp when you do a WC(significant as in 10 degrees or more). I change 10G in an 80G system and my temps only drop 2 degrees for about 2 minutes. Corals are a lot hardier then we give them credit for.

Thanks noted

 

[ello42]

No need to heat your WC water. In fact heated water will read differently on your refractometer Vs. cold.

Only time you should heat your water is if it's a significant drop in temp when you do a WC(significant as in 10 degrees or more). I change 10G in an 80G system and my temps only drop 2 degrees for about 2 minutes. Corals are a lot hardier then we give them credit for.

I just got home from work and the hammer seems to be normal opened up and swaying in the current

 

[Osaurus]

No need to heat your WC water. In fact heated water will read differently on your refractometer Vs. cold.

Only time you should heat your water is if it's a significant drop in temp when you do a WC(significant as in 10 degrees or more). I change 10G in an 80G system and my temps only drop 2 degrees for about 2 minutes. Corals are a lot hardier then we give them credit for.

I'd have to disagree with you. Consistency and stability is paramount in this hobby and in my experience (albeit anecdotal) water changes are no exception. It's relatively cheap to throw an appropriately sized jager or aqueon pro in your mixing container. I agree that corals can be/are hardier than most believe (some far more than others) - but most, if not all water change write-ups that I've read advise matching temps.

Glad to see your hammer is doing great, Ello42!