Hammer tissue receding

[Beau_B]

I have what I believe is an ORA green wall hammer. Had a few months and it's never been super happy, but I thought it was just adjusting.

Recently the tissue on the base has receded dramatically up to just under the skeleton base (where polyps are) and I'm concerned a bailout or similar is imminent.

I've tried two different locations, both on the sand one higher light & flow, one lower.

I only recently started testing the "big three" and know alk is a little low, but acceptable.

pH 8.0
1.027
Cal 450
Alk 7.0
Mag 1440

There is a happy torch, a 3" Maxima, 3 acans, and a few zoas along with various fish. No par meter but Kessil 360we @ 24" with 14hr total period max 55% 2hr ramp up/down.

No irritating critters that I am aware of...

Any suggestions? Just not for me?

 

[living_tribunal]

I have what I believe is an ORA green wall hammer. Had a few months and it's never been super happy, but I thought it was just adjusting.

Recently the tissue on the base has receded dramatically up to just under the skeleton base (where polyps are) and I'm concerned a bailout or similar is imminent.

I've tried two different locations, both on the sand one higher light & flow, one lower.

I only recently started testing the "big three" and know alk is a little low, but acceptable.

pH 8.0
1.027
Cal 450
Alk 7.0
Mag 1440

There is a happy torch, a 3" Maxima, 3 acans, and a few zoas along with various fish. No par meter but Kessil 360we @ 24" with 14hr total period max 55% 2hr ramp up/down.

No irritating critters that I am aware of...

Any suggestions? Just not for me?

You never mentioned phosphate and nitrate levels.

Regarding alk, 7 is not too bad but they do like it a bit higher around 8-9ish. I don't think that's low enough to cause any kind of tissue recession though. At least not in my experience.

 

[Beau_B]

Right, sorry. Nitrates are undetectable with API. The other tests are Salifert, and I don't have a phosphate kit. Could that be the issue?

I know LPS like "dirty" tanks, so the low nitrate is potentially an issue, but I feed heavy and have a full refugium of chaeto/Ulva/calaerpa so I was assuming there is some nitrate available. Hair algae grows in the DT on the back wall moderately.

 

[living_tribunal]

Right, sorry. Nitrates are undetectable with API. The other tests are Salifert, and I don't have a potassium kit. Could that be the issue?

I know LPS like "dirty" tanks, so the low nitrate is potentially an issue, but I feed heavy and have a full refugium of chaeto/Ulva/calaerpa so I was assuming there is some nitrate available. Hair algae grows in the DT on the back wall especially.

Lps, and other corals, prefer phosphates over nitrates but you do need both. My euphilliya definitely get mad when phosphates are undetectable. Something to keep an eye out for.

I don't test potassium either. Feeding won't produce inorganic nitrate until it dilutes.

 

[Beau_B]

I mistyped, potassium for phosphate and have corrected it.

I'll get a kit for phosphate... My guess is it's undetectable.

Appreciate the input.

So options might be reduced refugium light schedule or start dosing phosphate/nitrate?

Anything else a preferred course of action?

 

[Beau_B]

I am also not running the skimmer, since noticing the nitrates were low. That's been a month or so without. Tank is about 6mo old, started dry/dry.

 

[living_tribunal]

I mistyped, potassium for phosphate and have corrected it.

I'll get a kit for phosphate... My guess is it's undetectable.

Appreciate the input.

So options might be reduced refugium light schedule or start dosing phosphate/nitrate?

Anything else a preferred course of action?

I would definitely opt for reducing the photoperiod on your fuge before dosing phosphate.

If you don't have more than 2 fish or so and aren't heavily feeding than a really long photoperiod isn't necessary. Just cut a few hours, test and repeat until phosphates are detectable.

You should be fine after this assuming the hammer isn't being blasted with too much flow or par. Maybe try and get alk up a little as well.

 

[Sandra Finnell]

I have what I believe is an ORA green wall hammer. Had a few months and it's never been super happy, but I thought it was just adjusting.

Recently the tissue on the base has receded dramatically up to just under the skeleton base (where polyps are) and I'm concerned a bailout or similar is imminent.

I've tried two different locations, both on the sand one higher light & flow, one lower.

I only recently started testing the "big three" and know alk is a little low, but acceptable.

pH 8.0
1.027
Cal 450
Alk 7.0
Mag 1440

There is a happy torch, a 3" Maxima, 3 acans, and a few zoas along with various fish. No par meter but Kessil 360we @ 24" with 14hr total period max 55% 2hr ramp up/down.

No irritating critters that I am aware of...

Any suggestions? Just not for me?

A few days ago my hammers were not too happy and not fully extended, so I tested my water. It turned out that my ph was a little off. Mine tested 8.0 and it is always 8.4 I did a water change and by that evening my hammers were happy again. Do know about yours, but thought I would just throw this info out there. Hope yours is happy again.

 

[Beau_B]

System volume is 50g. 8 fish, all smaller species of wrasses and gobies though. Snails/crabs/shrimp.

Feeding is 2x a day of about a 1/2 teaspoon frozen blend consisting of table shrimp, scallop, pe mysis, and mussel. Auto feeder drops a dozen 1mm nls 2x daily as well.

Fuge is 3g with a 50w led grow spectrum running reverse schedule.

 

[living_tribunal]

System volume is 50g. 8 fish, all smaller species of wrasses and gobies though. Snails/crabs/shrimp.

Feeding is 2x a day of about a 1/2 teaspoon frozen blend consisting of table shrimp, scallop, pe mysis, and mussel. Auto feeder drops a dozen 1mm nls 2x daily as well.

Fuge is 3g with a 50w led grow spectrum running reverse schedule.

You'll be able to get detectable nutrients no problem

 

[Beau_B]

I'm going to drop the light schedule a couple hours and monitor. I've been worried dinos are going to creep in too so upping phosphate is a good overall goal probably.

 

[Beau_B]

You'll be able to get detectable nutrients no problem

Right? I've been upping the food ever since turning the skimmer off and yet nitrates still haven't come up. I guess the fuge is just way too effective.

Time to knock the hours down. I think it will effect my pH some though. Will need to come up with a solution for that.

I should mention the 50g volume is actual water. Tank is a "50" with a 15g sump. So... Some might call that 65... But you know rocks and stuff!

 

[Beau_B]

Hammer is still receding, I’m beginning to see the grooved skeleton exposed in one area.

I finally was able to test Phosphate, it’s around .25ppm (salifert). Nitrates appear to be 5ppm (API) all other stats the same.

Reduced light schedule on both the fuge and DT, skimmer still off, feeding heavy. Resisting the urge to relocate the hammer again, as it’s in a gentle flow and lower light area. There is an acan in the same area that seems healthy.


other LPS growing, zoas multiplying, gha is getting excessive (upped nutrients for both hammer and what may be Dinos).

Just not for me I guess. I’m going to try buffering the ph up with baked baking soda next, see if that helps and bring alk up hopefully.

 

[madlos123]

I had problems like that 4 years ago with my torch. I would not chase ph. just keep consistent alk and such. If theres no flatworm or other critters on the flesh, Try dipping the coral in iodine.

 

[Dhutnyk]

Lps, and other corals, prefer phosphates over nitrates but you do need both. My euphilliya definitely get mad when phosphates are undetectable. Something to keep an eye out for.

I don't test potassium either. Feeding won't produce inorganic nitrate until it dilutes.

What to do if I accidentally removed almost all white tissue.
Will it die? How to grow back or what to do