Hammers and torch dying

reely989

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Hey guys have a couple of hammers and a torch that have taken a turn for the worst. The hammer has been going downhill a couple of weeks but the torch had been doing great until today. Calcium is 390, phosphate .02, nitrate 10, dkh 8, mag is 1260. Not sure where I’m messing up.

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Calcium and magnesium are a touch low. What lighting? Have a full tank shot? How's the flow? How old is the tank?
 
Both can be stubborn when getting settled in, but are extremely hardy in my experience. Just be patient and don’t blast them with too much flow. Also, are you in Auburn, AL?
 
Both can be stubborn when getting settled in, but are extremely hardy in my experience. Just be patient and don’t blast them with too much flow. Also, are you in Auburn, AL?

that’s what’s weird they were doing really well then in both cases I just get home from work to exposed skeleton on them. And yeah I’m in auburn!
 
that’s what’s weird they were doing really well then in both cases I just get home from work to exposed skeleton on them. And yeah I’m in auburn!
For what it’s worth I stated with a 20 gallon and a small maybe 2 head frag of hammers. It lasted through multiple disasters and me having no idea what I was doing to start with. If you ever need to buy more hammers let me know . Also pmed
 

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Hey guys have a couple of hammers and a torch that have taken a turn for the worst. The hammer has been going downhill a couple of weeks but the torch had been doing great until today. Calcium is 390, phosphate .02, nitrate 10, dkh 8, mag is 1260. Not sure where I’m messing up.

2162EC08-CD3E-44E1-9F29-E79DE037D232.jpeg
Phos is a tad low but overall I see nothing that suggests needing a change. I do however see in pic where tissue is starting to bail out. While torches need good to medium flow and flow may be excessive as often too much light and flow will cause the bailout. They do require calcium no less than 380, preferably 400 and but in low range.
Assure salinity and ph not elevated.
 
Phos is a tad low but overall I see nothing that suggests needing a change. I do however see in pic where tissue is starting to bail out. While torches need good to medium flow and flow may be excessive as often too much light and flow will cause the bailout. They do require calcium no less than 380, preferably 400 and but in low range.
Assure salinity and ph not elevated.

yeah the polyps on that head just totally let go and were dangling. I did increase my blue light intensity a couple days ago. Maybe I overdid it. pH is 7.9 and salinity 1.025
 
yeah the polyps on that head just totally let go and were dangling. I did increase my blue light intensity a couple days ago. Maybe I overdid it. pH is 7.9 and salinity 1.025
May be the issue.
 
For what it’s worth I stated with a 20 gallon and a small maybe 2 head frag of hammers. It lasted through multiple disasters and me having no idea what I was doing to start with. If you ever need to buy more hammers let me know . Also pmed
You looking to move a nice chunk of those? Shipping?
 
it will be the lighting i increased mine my and my torch completely retracted lower it too where it was
 
yeah the polyps on that head just totally let go and were dangling. I did increase my blue light intensity a couple days ago. Maybe I overdid it. pH is 7.9 and salinity 1.025
How much of an increase?
Things like this don't happen overnight.
Most likely an issue that's been going on for a while.
Totally agree that calcium, Magnesium and phosphates are low.
Can you post a video of the flow?
How are you measuring SG?
 
How much of an increase?
Things like this don't happen overnight.
Most likely an issue that's been going on for a while.
Totally agree that calcium, Magnesium and phosphates are low.
Can you post a video of the flow?
How are you measuring SG?

that’s why I’m confused. The day before this photo there was full polyp extension on that head. Then I get home and half of that head's polyps are just dangling in my flow. I'm using a refractometer calibrated with BRS solution, verified with a tropic marin hydrometer.
 
that’s why I’m confused. The day before this photo there was full polyp extension on that head. Then I get home and half of that head's polyps are just dangling in my flow. I'm using a refractometer calibrated with BRS solution, verified with a tropic marin hydrometer.
I don't see how long you have had them.
Is this a recent purchase?
What about flow? Random and medium?
Can you increase po4?
 
I don't see how long you have had them.
Is this a recent purchase?
What about flow? Random and medium?
Can you increase po4?

I've had them about a month with good extension the entire time until yesterday. They were growing well. I target fed them a decent amount. Flow is moderate. They have a good sway without whipping around. Yes, I'm increasing po4 a bit.
 
Hammers are generally tough. I doubt it’s your traditional chemistry. Do you have other coral that’s doing well? I know from experience that hammers can be sensitive to metal contamination, more than other corals. In my case, high levels of tin were leaching from a big plastic tub I was using for a sump, although there is plenty more obvious sources of metal. That could contaminate. You likely won’t get the results in time but an ICP test will probably give you some insight.
 
Ok, so torches and hammmers love dirty water. Yes they can do fine in an acro clean system, but they love nitrates and phosphates. They consume alot of nutrients. Second, the blue colored or worst looking one has a bacterial infection. It is probably too far gone to save, but these spread really fast and kill euphyllia really really quick, as in a matter of a day or two. Best course of action is to buy ciprofloxacin, an antibiotic. Try and get the 500mg pills and dissolve into 50ml of rodi water. Dose 1 ml per 10 gallons every day or every other day. Cipro is effective in low doses and wont mess with your bio filter if dosed like that.
 

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