Hanna Low range phoshate or ulr phoshate.

[jstabile316]

Currently I’m using the Hanna low range phoshate checker(HI713) and almost always get a reading of 0. From what I read the HI713 tests from 0- 2.50 ppm and the HI774 reads from 0- 0.90 ppm. My question is would it be worth it for me to get a Ulr phoshate checker (HI774) Are they more accurate at reading lower end of phoshate? If my tests always comes back 0 with the HI713 is it possible I might actually have some phoshate it’s just the unit is not accurate enough to read levels that low? I feed twice a day and my nitrates are always btw 2-5 ppm.

 

[Kfactor]

i have the ulr and get zero lol but when i dose my sps dont like it

 

[jstabile316]

My corals seem happy and have no algae problems but my tanks mostly LPS and don’t want to starve them, I try to spot feed with reef roids at least once a week but always get a reading of 0.

 

[nereefpat]

The ULR is the one you want. It is useful for tanks that have phosphate in the natural seawater range. People do report other kits showing zero when the ULR checkers show some phosphate.

 

[jstabile316]

Okay thanks, I guess I’m gonna have to get the ULR.

 

[Drich5150]

Phosphorus ulr

 

[jstabile316]

Phosphorus ulr

Is that the most accurate model? Just need to convert to ppm?

 

[BanjoBandito]

Okay thanks, I guess I’m gonna have to get the ULR.

I have the ULR and it's good for what I need. The phosphorus model is "more accurate" though I believe. I've never used it, but if it uses more than one reagent I'll stick with the ULR.

Edit: The ULR goes to 2 decimal places....so 0.00....meaning I can test down to .01.

EDIT #2: I will never miss an opportunity to complain about how stinkin' fast the ULR turns the display off! My other hanna's leave it up for a good 5 min. That ULR is like, BLINK AND MISS IT. Just a fair warning. Don't have ADHD while testing.

 

[jstabile316]

I have the ULR and it's good for what I need. The phosphorus model is "more accurate" though I believe. I've never used it, but if it uses more than one reagent I'll stick with the ULR.

Edit: The ULR goes to 2 decimal places....so 0.00....meaning I can test down to .01.

EDIT #2: I will never miss an opportunity to complain about how stinkin' fast the ULR turns the display off! My other hanna's leave it up for a good 5 min. That ULR is like, BLINK AND MISS IT. Just a fair warning. Don't have ADHD while test

 

[jstabile316]

I have the ULR and it's good for what I need. The phosphorus model is "more accurate" though I believe. I've never used it, but if it uses more than one reagent I'll stick with the ULR.

Edit: The ULR goes to 2 decimal places....so 0.00....meaning I can test down to .01.

EDIT #2: I will never miss an opportunity to complain about how stinkin' fast the ULR turns the display off! My other hanna's leave it up for a good 5 min. That ULR is like, BLINK AND MISS IT. Just a fair warning. Don't have ADHD while testing.

I believe the one I’m using now HI713 also goes down to 0.01 as well but always get a 0 reading so that’s why I wanted to know if it was worth for me to get the ULR. If it’s more accurate at a lower range

 

[BanjoBandito]

I believe the one I’m using now HI713 also goes down to 0.01 as well but always get a 0 reading so that’s why I wanted to know if it was worth for me to get the ULR. If it’s more accurate at a lower range

The accuracy at low range on the H1713 isn't great at "reef levels". I think I'm saying this right....the 713's range is can be off by +/- .04 ppm and overall does not test into the the same range, with the low range ppm number being higher.