Hanna Phosphate Checker Calibration

drstratton

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Is there a way to calibrate this? I'm not sure if it's working correctly. The only other test kit I have is API and I'm not sure that I trust it either. Hanna shows 0 API shows .25. If I can't calibrate it, is there another reliable kit that I could buy as a cross reference? Thanks!!!
 
I was wondering the same thing. There are not very many reviews on it. One reviewer stated that the values didn't go low enough, the standard they set was 1.0, but I don't know enough about it to say if that's a bad thing or not. It's also only a 1 use test. Randy, do you have any recommendations as to the best way to figure out if my checker is bad? I've had it for a very long time. It sat unused for 4yrs until I restarted my tank. I purchased new reagents for it. I was also wondering if over time the cuvette's would discolor even with rinsing and maybe I should get new ones. Thanks!!!
 
I was wondering the same thing. There are not very many reviews on it. One reviewer stated that the values didn't go low enough, the standard they set was 1.0, but I don't know enough about it to say if that's a bad thing or not. It's also only a 1 use test. Randy, do you have any recommendations as to the best way to figure out if my checker is bad? I've had it for a very long time. It sat unused for 4yrs until I restarted my tank. I purchased new reagents for it. I was also wondering if over time the cuvette's would discolor even with rinsing and maybe I should get new ones. Thanks!!!

They have a 100 ppb phosphorus standard for the 736. :)
 
I was just responding to this concern of yours:

"One reviewer stated that the values didn't go low enough, the standard they set was 1.0"

So one can get a lower standard from them.

Whether they are properly made or not, I do not know, but have no reason to doubt them.

IMO, they are fine for checking operation, but not really for testing whether it can distinguish 2 ppb from 7 ppb. :)
 
I was just responding to this concern of yours:

"One reviewer stated that the values didn't go low enough, the standard they set was 1.0"

So one can get a lower standard from them.

Whether they are properly made or not, I do not know, but have no reason to doubt them.

IMO, they are fine for checking operation, but not really for testing whether it can distinguish 2 ppb from 7 ppb. :)
Gotcha! I'm a little bit slow sometimes.:) I want to order a different test kit, but I'm not sure which one and I might order a new Hanna Checker. I'm currently using Red Sea Pro for Nitrate & I'm waiting for the Calcium and Magnesium kits. In your experience is there a phosphate test that is easier to read than another. It's so hard to match colors!
 
I usually get between 98-100ppb on my 736 ULR Checker with the 100ppb reference that says it's good for +/- 10ppb.

https://www.reef2reef.com/index.php?threads/222628/

As long as you keep it out of the light and vials unblemished it should be good for multiple references. They shouldn't call it a calibration set though as you can't calibrate the device that I know of.
 
I usually get between 98-100ppb on my 736 ULR Checker with the 100ppb reference that says it's good for +/- 10ppb.

https://www.reef2reef.com/index.php?threads/222628/

As long as you keep it out of the light and vials unblemished it should be good for multiple references. They shouldn't call it a calibration set though as you can't calibrate the device that I know of.
Thank you! I will read through your thread! I think I will buy it just to see if it's still working or if it's toast!
 
With Hanna I thought you cal. with RO water? Yes Each time you use it. Make sure vial is very clean,no dust or anything else on glass. no air bubbles either.
 
With Hanna I thought you cal. with RO water? Yes Each time you use it.
Yes you do! It's supposed to set it to zero, but my results don't seem to be consistent with what I have going on in my tank. So, I need to make sure that it's working correctly!
 
I would trust hanna to Api. I might compare with salerfert, Eous or maybe Red sea. I do prefer colorometers to to visual comparison. I admit I have seen slight variation with 2 tests in a row. relatively negligible for me. .0X diff. between the two. Remember if you don't get every little grain of reagent you will get a different reading. Have fun
 
That's exactly what I think, I don't trust api either. I'm going to get a better test kit for cross referencing. Thanks!
 
Not a fan of their control solution. It's 100 ppb and I'm wanting to test water that's 5-20 ppb. To me it's somewhat like calibrating a refractometer with RO/DI water. I know it's different because you're not calibrating but if you're going to make a standard why not make it in the range your unit is being used to measure?
 
FWIW.

I recently experienced a Hanna failure that turned out to simply be a bad batch of reagent.

7 dollar bottle of reagent and I was black to getting results that made sense

The day the new bottle came I tested with old bottle and got something like 5.7 and with new bottle it was closer to 7.8
 
I just bought 2 new boxes of reagent, I've tried both, but they do have the same lot #.
 
With Hanna I thought you cal. with RO water? Yes Each time you use it. Make sure vial is very clean,no dust or anything else on glass. no air bubbles either.

Yes you do! It's supposed to set it to zero, but my results don't seem to be consistent with what I have going on in my tank. So, I need to make sure that it's working correctly!


No, you don't use RO/DI to "0" it. If you are talking about the C1 stage. That should be filled with 10ml of your tank water that you are trying to test. Then taken out and add the reagent to that same vial for the C2 stage.

http://shop.hannainst.com/downloads/dl/file/id/1069/ist736_13_05_10.pdf

I always make sure the do the same steps every single time and have always gotten consistent results. Others have had bad reagents in the past but I haven't had the problem yet but it's always a possibility with any test kit.

I have a pretty good routine down with this checker and do the same with the 713 checker as well. Always handing with a lint free cloth and never touch with fingers though all steps.

1. rinse out the vial with tank water several times and inspect vial for any blemishes.
2. Fill that vial with 10ml of tank water taking care not to have any bubbles on the sides (if filtered can skip step 4.)
3. Get a packet out and flick it a few times to loosen up the powder and move away from the area I'm going to cut in a curved pattern as indicated on the packet (I was doing this before they put that indicator on there as well)
4. Set the vial down with tank water and wait at least minutes doing other stuff ( I used filter out the sample with a coffee filter but this seems just as good and I'm usually doing several things at the same time)
5. Turn the checker on and wait for it to ask for C1
6. Place the vial in with the 10ml mark facing me
7. Cut open the reagent packet and pinch it open so the bottom part is creased to help funnel the powder out into the vial
8. Press the button to read C1
9. As soon as it asks for C2 I pull the vial out (never touching with my fingers at any stage of this using a lint free cloth) and add the reagent
10. Close the vial up and look at the time and gently start mixing the reagent into the water. Taking care not to form bubbles on the insides of the glass. Alternating between slowly inverting and gently swirling
11. As soon as the time changes on the 2 minute mark I press and hold the button to get the 3 minute timer.
12. Continue to gently mix the reagent for 30 more seconds inspecting for any bubbles on the sides or accidental blemishes
13. Place the vial back into the checker and wait for the count down.
14. Rinse immediately after getting the reading.

I find that the reagent for the ULR 736 checker dissolves a lot better then the 713 Low Range checker. Also the end result value is displayed a lot longer on my 736 ULR checker.
 

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