Hanna Phosphate checker,,,, PPM or PPB??

[Fudsey]

Thanks @aquablizz

 

[aquablizz]

Thanks @aquablizz

I'm new at this crap. Whatever you do, don't take my word for it. I've had a fish only tank for at least 10 years but all this coral and inverts stuff is a different level all together.. As I stated earlier in the thread, I'd much rather be dosing myself with vodka but I'm giving it a shot,, no pun intended. If it become more trouble then its worth I'm back to a fish only system..

blizz

 

[Fudsey]

I'm new at this crap. Whatever you do, don't take my word for it. I've had a fish only tank for at least 10 years but all this coral and inverts stuff is a different level all together.. As I stated earlier in the thread, I'd much rather be doing myself with vodka but I'm giving it a shot,, no pun intended. If it become more trouble then its worth I'm back to a fish only system..

blizz

I am in the same boat as you. I have had FOWLR tanks for about 25 years. I only started the reef thing a couple months ago. LOL

 

[Erikhsf]

The phosphate checker has fairly high uncertainty of +/- 0.04 ppm. So all values between 0.00 and 0.08 ppm could essentially be the same water.

I'd get the phosphorus checker.

Which one ppm or ppb?

 

[Erikhsf]

First off I would go with the ppm the ppm is way to little.

I have the ppb and didn't know it and have been getting the flashing 200 that means to high to read so I have been under the impression my po4 was through the roof despite my tank looking super healthy. So I removed 90% of the sand and cleaned it which needed to be done 5yr of not really cleaning it and started GFO. I am not trying to get my po4 down super low I am happy with 1 through 5 and usually don't even check but I am starting some acro and I want to know my tank is keeping conditions consistent for a couple months before. Does anyone know what the 200 the above 200 stands for is it 2 ppm or 20 ppm and can I get ppm out of the ppb by diluting the mix?

 

[elysics]

First off I would go with the ppm the ppm is way to little.

I have the ppb and didn't know it and have been getting the flashing 200 that means to high to read so I have been under the impression my po4 was through the roof despite my tank looking super healthy. So I removed 90% of the sand and cleaned it which needed to be done 5yr of not really cleaning it and started GFO. I am not trying to get my po4 down super low I am happy with 1 through 5 and usually don't even check but I am starting some acro and I want to know my tank is keeping conditions consistent for a couple months before. Does anyone know what the 200 the above 200 stands for is it 2 ppm or 20 ppm and can I get ppm out of the ppb by diluting the mix?

This confusion is why I think it is a bad idea to frame the conversion between the number reported by the hanna ulr P as one between ppb and ppm.

Because it is not. 1000ppb is 1ppm and 0.001 ppm is one ppb. The issue here is that the Hanna ULR P doesn't display the value for phosphate, it displays the value for phosphorous. The ratio between the two being roughly 3.066

So if it displays 10ppb phosphorous, that's equivalent to 30.66 ppb phosphate, or 0.03066 ppm phosphate (difference in decimal places notwithstanding) .

Over 200 ppb phosphorus would then in turn be roughly over 613ppb phosphate, or over 0.613ppm phosphate

 

[MBruun]

or use this conversion table from Hanna

https://www.hannainst.com/hubfs/006-finished-content/Aquarium/phosphorus-to-phosphate-conversion-table--hanna-instruments.pdf

 

[Big E]

Here is the fact sheet on the 736

Saltwater Aquarium Ultra Low Range Phosphorus Colorimeter - Checker® HC

The HI736 Checker®HC (Handheld Colorimeter) provides a simple, accurate and cost effective way to measure phosphorus in marine systems.

www.hannainst.com

The newer 774 will read higher and is more accurate than the 714 if anyone wants to go that route.

Marine Phosphate Ultra Low Range Colorimeter - Checker® HC

The HI774 Phosphate Ultra Low Range Colorimeter in. Checker® HC provides a simple, accurate and cost effective way to measure phosphate.

www.hannainst.com

 

[Fudsey]

The newer 774 will read higher and is more accurate than the 714 if anyone wants to go that route.

Marine Phosphate Ultra Low Range Colorimeter - Checker® HC

The HI774 Phosphate Ultra Low Range Colorimeter in. Checker® HC provides a simple, accurate and cost effective way to measure phosphate.

www.hannainst.com

I have the 736 and if I was to buy a new one it would be This ^^^^^

 

[Big E]

I have the 736 and if I was to buy a new one it would be This ^^^^^

Just FYI and why I posted actual specs from Hannah................the 774 is +/- .02ppm so it's kind of the in between tester. More accurate than the 714 but not as good as the 736.

It's big plus is that it stays on longer......7 minutes vs the 736 which you have to rush & be adept at getting the pouch in the cuvette and mixed in less than two minutes.

 

[IslandLifeReef]

First off I would go with the ppm the ppm is way to little.

I have the ppb and didn't know it and have been getting the flashing 200 that means to high to read so I have been under the impression my po4 was through the roof despite my tank looking super healthy. So I removed 90% of the sand and cleaned it which needed to be done 5yr of not really cleaning it and started GFO. I am not trying to get my po4 down super low I am happy with 1 through 5 and usually don't even check but I am starting some acro and I want to know my tank is keeping conditions consistent for a couple months before. Does anyone know what the 200 the above 200 stands for is it 2 ppm or 20 ppm and can I get ppm out of the ppb by diluting the mix?

The flashing 200 means that your PO4 is greater than 0.6132ppm. You do not know how much greater. Your PO4 could be 0.62ppm or 1.0 ppm who knows. Either way, IMO, all of those numbers are way to high. The tester you have will work great and show stability, I would just recommend getting that number down below 30. The flashing 200 is just telling you that your levels are way to high, or maybe you are doing the test wrong. To eliminate the possibility of you doing the test wrong, get your water tested at your LFS and see what they say.

 

[Reef.]

Just FYI and why I posted actual specs from Hannah................the 774 is +/- .02ppm so it's kind of the in between tester. More accurate than the 714 but not as good as the 736.

It's big plus is that it stays on longer......7 minutes vs the 736 which you have to rush & be adept at getting the pouch in the cuvette and mixed in less than two minutes.

Think Hanna have said on here that both the 774 and 736 have the same accuracy, only on paper there is a slight difference.

 

[rkpetersen]

They are identical devices in terms of the test performed, the only difference is the units that the result is reported in.
Also, the reagent packets have identical contents, just labelled differently.
Converting from phosphorus to phosphate is easy, just multiple by 3 and divide by 1000;
so 20 ppb phosphorus equals 0.06 ppm phosphate.

 

[rkpetersen]

It's big plus is that it stays on longer......7 minutes vs the 736 which you have to rush & be adept at getting the pouch in the cuvette and mixed in less than two minutes.

They changed the timers on the 774 specifically because of this complaint with the 736.
Not only getting the reagent into the cuvette and shaken, but the time the result stays visible before the unit shuts off.
I have the 736. I use a small funnel to put the reagent in the cuvette, so it only takes seconds.
I also set a separate audible timer for 3 minutes, so I don't miss the reading while busy doing other stuff.