Hanna Ultra low PO4 checker

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Anyone have any hints on how to open/pour the reagent into the vial - I have tried gently tapping it - and it seems some spills. Sometimes I can see when I open the packet some powder in the air.. For something that needs to be precise, This is a bit of a hassle (unless I'm doing something incorrectly)
 
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Anyone have any hints on how to open/pour the reagent into the vial - I have tried gently tapping it - and it seems some spills. Sometimes I can see when I open the packet some powder in the air.. For something that needs to be precise, This is a bit of a hassle (unless I'm doing something incorrectly)

Do we know that the exact amount is critical? It might be if it absorbs any light at the detecting wavelength and you are using it near the bottom end of its phosphate detection range, but in terms of reacting reagent, kits usually have that in excess and small changes in it won't matter.
 
Do we know that the exact amount is critical? It might be if it absorbs any light at the detecting wavelength and you are using it near the bottom end of its phosphate detection range, but in terms of reacting reagent, kits usually have that in excess and small changes in it won't matter.

Thanks I wondered about that as well. That would seem to make sense in a test where you have a substance for which you want to 'test' lets say Calcium, and an indicator like with most CA tests, and then. you add a titbant. The important thing is to know the exact amount of titbant.

In this test since you just add powder to the vial, I assumed it was important to get it all in.

If you knew the number of beakers, ehrlemeyer flasks, etc etc I broke during Quantitative analysis - not to mention the number of times I sneezed slightly on my 'unknown sample. you would know why im asking this question....
 
I like all of these suggestions - but - still dont feel I get all of the reagent in. Question is - is it rate limiting - ie - important......
 
Just as others have stated... I cut across the top and crease the middle to create a channel. As far as getting every little piece of reagent... Not sure that's 100% possible... But I suppose that's why they give margin of error.
 
Why wouldn't you buy Milwaukee mi412 and prefer this

It's accuracy specifications are worse then the Hanna 736, similar to the Hanna 713.
 
It's accuracy specifications are worse then the Hanna 736, similar to the Hanna 713.
Thanks Randy, I had never looked at the Milwaukee before so I looked it up and thought why spend more money for something that has a greater error range than the Hanna 736.
 
Thanks Randy, I had never looked at the Milwaukee before so I looked it up and thought why spend more money for something that has a greater error range than the Hanna 736.
It's accuracy specifications are worse then the Hanna 736, similar to the Hanna 713.
Mine has always been resulted well.

I just don't like Hanna photometers. I bought CA and No3 Hanna photometers 2 years ago.

I always get different value everytime I test the water.

I use tropic marine no3 and CA tests after my money was gone for nothing.

Hanna CA photometer always show 525 while tropic marine shows 425. I noticed it while I've read CA photometer reviews on the net.

I would have never bought hanna again.
 
Mine has always been resulted well.

I just don't like Hanna photometers. I bought CA and No3 Hanna photometers 2 years ago.

I always get different value everytime I test the water.

I use tropic marine no3 and CA tests after my money was gone for nothing.

Hanna CA photometer always show 525 while tropic marine shows 425. I noticed it while I've read CA photometer reviews on the net.

I would have never bought hanna again.
I have never measured NO3 and the calcium test always comes close to my red sea but easier to use as I don't need to deal with color change. The first couple times I adjusted my testing to exactly per the instructions and it has been good. I use Hanna alkalinity, calcium and ultra low phosphorous.
 
I have never measured NO3 and the calcium test always comes close to my red sea but easier to use as I don't need to deal with color change. The first couple times I adjusted my testing to exactly per the instructions and it has been good. I use Hanna alkalinity, calcium and ultra low phosphorous.
There are usually 100 points difference on Hanna CA photometer

Be careful.
 
There are usually 100 points difference on Hanna CA photometer

Be careful.
I never had that kind of variation maybe 25 difference between the Hanna and my Red Sea. Since I use a Calcium reactor I seldom check my calcium as it is more important to watch alk and magnesium.
 
There is a huge multiplier on calcium in the blank (supposed to be none), making even a trace of calcium look like a lot of calcium in the blank that gets subtracted out from the actual sample result, and that may be why so many people have issues with the calcium checker.
 
There is a huge multiplier on calcium in the blank (supposed to be none), making even a trace of calcium look like a lot of calcium in the blank that gets subtracted out from the actual sample result, and that may be why so many people have issues with the calcium checker.
I always make sure my cuvette is spotless inside and out when I am through with it and before I use it. I also make sure all syringes are cleaned and dry after every test. I think that is important when using any test kit no matter what brand.
 
...to the original question. Cut across the packet diagonally. The gently open it apart and crease the front side. You will be able to pour the entire contents without issue.
 
...to the original question. Cut across the packet diagonally. The gently open it apart and crease the front side. You will be able to pour the entire contents without issue.
I never found it hard to do after a couple of attempts.
 

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